:driving: Turbo Boost Gauge readings - Page 2

Flooder · 09-12-2009, 07:51 PM

"The HG's are too low"? WTF. lol.

nvno1 · 09-14-2009, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flooder

"The HG's are too low"? WTF. lol.

Flooder, i have the feeling that you are under the impression that i know a ton about Rx7s or perhaps you were just bored

. please feel free to provide useful information as to why what i stated was so funny.

From what i read and am lead to believe is that, if you have a VAC Leak ur car will not idle correctly. The internal pressure would be off thus causing the Hgs to not be at lets say -10hg min (on 85psi per rotor(front/rear) @1000rpms. I have good fuel pressure, set the timing to TDS and cas aligmnt as per FSM, good plugs, good A/F meter and no flooding. I have used two 1/2 cans of starter fluid to try and locate a vac leak and nothing have surfaced.

The troubleshooting help that I've recieved, mostly everyone is stating that it is mostlikely a vac leak. When i posted the ? as to what Hgs read under idle there was no response from you in that regards

and the information that i got really has me believing this is the issue. please coorect me if im wrong.

NoDOHC · 09-12-2009, 10:35 PM

Have you compression checked this engine yet?

nvno1 · 09-14-2009, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoDOHC

Have you compression checked this engine yet?

yep, 85psi on front and rear before warm up.

NoDOHC · 09-14-2009, 06:06 PM

I would go and get a real vacuum gauge and put it on the car. Connect it to the port that comes out of the side on the manifold right next to the split between upper and lower manifolds.

I am inclined to mistrust your stock vacuum gauge.

If the vacuum gauge is reading identical to your boost gauge, you almost have to be running on 1 rotor or it should rev up really fast.

nvno1 · 09-15-2009, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoDOHC

I would go and get a real vacuum gauge and put it on the car. Connect it to the port that comes out of the side on the manifold right next to the split between upper and lower manifolds.

I am inclined to mistrust your stock vacuum gauge.

If the vacuum gauge is reading identical to your boost gauge, you almost have to be running on 1 rotor or it should rev up really fast.

Thanks NoDOHC, the gauage is aftermarket and i am starting to believe it might be operating on one rotor(fuel injector not pulsing). The reason i state this is because the car is hard to start(unless i play with the pedal) in addition to several turns of the key. When it does start it sometimes sort of stutters then rev good but the rpms drop then hop back up, then drop, then hops up again. This shit is getting on my nerves!!! When the car warms up at idle its does the same thing...hops from 1000 to bout 1600-1800 then back down to 1000.

What freaking me out is that the compression is 85psi front and rear, fuel pressure is good, no flooding, oil pressure good, plugs clean, oil clean, af meter reading good, once running revs up quick when i hold the pedal however the rpms will drop then come back to where it was previously.

This car is a common swap:
84 gslse, 87 TII(s4) complete pass harness(nothing was cut) still connected to the motor,drivers harness made and continu test done(ends tested), walbro pump, stock ecu, 87 TII tranny(still shopping for driveshaft).

Rx-7fetish · 09-21-2009, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nvno1

When it does start it sometimes sort of stutters then rev good but the rpms drop then hop back up, then drop, then hops up again. This shit is getting on my nerves!!! When the car warms up at idle its does the same thing...hops from 1000 to bout 1600-1800 then back down to 1000.

Sounds like tps to me, have you checked it besides poking it with your finger, mainly the test lights or volt meter?

Quote:

Originally Posted by nvno1

What freaking me out is that the compression is 85psi front and rear, fuel pressure is good, no flooding, oil pressure good, plugs clean, oil clean, af meter reading good, once running revs up quick when i hold the pedal however the rpms will drop then come back to where it was previously.

Sounds like your afm is going bad or there is an intake leak after it. I had the same symptoms on both my 10th ann and an 87 gxl, the 10th ann had an intake leak between the afm and the turbo, and the afm was going bad on the gxl.

nvno1 · 09-22-2009, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rx-7fetish

Sounds like tps to me, have you checked it besides poking it with your finger, mainly the test lights or volt meter?

Sounds like your afm is going bad or there is an intake leak after it. I had the same symptoms on both my 10th ann and an 87 gxl, the 10th ann had an intake leak between the afm and the turbo, and the afm was going bad on the gxl.

Thanks for the response without the doggish dialog...i have check the TPS w/lights and a meter. when i press the TPS in all the way the motor heads to redline quick i mean fast dude.(

love the TII motor bwoy)

we checked the afm per FSM and it fine according to the FSM..I plan on blocking off everything and triple checking the hoses. going to be replacing all vac lines that remain and the gasket for the Upper to Lower. can it test okay and still be bad?

nvno1 · 10-13-2009, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rx-7fetish

Sounds like tps to me, have you checked it besides poking it with your finger, mainly the test lights or volt meter?

sorry for the delay in responding...the tps has been checked with lights and multimeters..it appears to be good.

Sounds like your afm is going bad or there is an intake leak after it. I had the same symptoms on both my 10th ann and an 87 gxl, the 10th ann had an intake leak between the afm and the turbo, and the afm was going bad on the gxl.

I just got my block off plates, new waterpump housing and upper intake gaskets. when i take her apart i will change the clamps with some clamps i can tighten down...thanks for the input..if all else fails i will change the afm and the tps even though both tested fine.

NoDOHC · 09-21-2009, 10:57 PM

Hopping is common around that speed, the stock ECU advances the timing quite a bit at 1200 rpm. Try adjusting the idle down to 750 rpm. It could be the TPS, but it is not uncommon for a properly tuned car to hunt if the idle speed is set too high.

nvno1 · 09-22-2009, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoDOHC

Hopping is common around that speed, the stock ECU advances the timing quite a bit at 1200 rpm. Try adjusting the idle down to 750 rpm. It could be the TPS, but it is not uncommon for a properly tuned car to hunt if the idle speed is set too high.

...NoDOHC thanks for your feedback always a pleasure to hear from you....the BAC is bad i believe, the plunger is not moving...just tested it..the BAC was not plugged in either at the time and i tried it plugged up and not plugged up same rpm hunting...waiting to get the block off plates and gaskets now.

NoDOHC · 09-23-2009, 11:31 PM

If the idle is above 750 and the engine is warm, the BAC should be shut. If you unplugged it and the pulsation didn't go away, I doubt that it is the issue. The stock ECU has a 'hole' in the timing map to make the engine idle down while getting excessive air and fuel (5 degrees ATDC). If I program a similar hole into my Haltech, it will do the same oscillations if I set the idle too high. Seriously, try adjusting the idle down to 750 with the check jumper connected and then see what it idles like.

This still doesn't explain why the engine is running at such low vacuum. You said that it revs very quickly from idle if you floor it?

Are you sure that the timing is correct?

By press the TPS in all the way, you mean floor the gas, right? Pressing in the TPS without moving the pedal shouldn't make the engine rev to the redline.

nvno1 · 09-24-2009, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoDOHC

If the idle is above 750 and the engine is warm, the BAC should be shut. If you unplugged it and the pulsation didn't go away, I doubt that it is the issue. The stock ECU has a 'hole' in the timing map to make the engine idle down while getting excessive air and fuel (5 degrees ATDC). If I program a similar hole into my Haltech, it will do the same oscillations if I set the idle too high. Seriously, try adjusting the idle down to 750 with the check jumper connected and then see what it idles like.

This still doesn't explain why the engine is running at such low vacuum. You said that it revs very quickly from idle if you floor it?

Are you sure that the timing is correct?

By press the TPS in all the way, you mean floor the gas, right? Pressing in the TPS without moving the pedal shouldn't make the engine rev to the redline.

This is going freak you guys out..

the car starts after a few cranks(no bac connected) ..however if i play with the pedal it starts up..stutters a little then she picks up...i have to play with the gas at little to keep her running. after about two mins of that she will run with no pedaling of the gas pedal. she is still looping.

when under the hood and i press in the TPS plunger, not by way of the pedal, the rpms start climbing.......crazy i know.. the timing was set by way of the FSM...aligning the second notch(if facing the car,second notch to the right) on the main pulley to the needle on the front cover(gslse) and the cas has been removed and placed back with the little circle mark on the gear wheel with the pointer on the shaft on the cas.

RETed · 10-05-2009, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nvno1

front cover(gslse)

Ar you using the GSL-SE CAS too?
If not, can you verify that the GSL-SE and FC front cover pin locations are identical?
I don't like the idea that you're mixing and matching parts like this...

-Ted

nvno1 · 10-13-2009, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RETed

Ar you using the GSL-SE CAS too?
If not, can you verify that the GSL-SE and FC front cover pin locations are identical?
I don't like the idea that you're mixing and matching parts like this...

-Ted

Hey Ted,

i had no choice but to use the GSLSE front cover it a TII swap in a GSLSE. and the GSLSE uses a dizzy. im using the cas that came with the 87 motor. the pin looks to be in the same location.

09-12-2009, 07:51 PM	#1
Flooder Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 321 Rep Power: 18	"The HG's are too low"? WTF. lol. __________________ AZRX7.COM Red 1991 A-package(SOLD) Red 1990 GXL(SOLD) White 1989 GTUs(DEAD) Red 1988 Turbo II(DD) Black 1988 Turbo II(SOLD) Rebuilt and street ported motor, Garrett T04E Turbo, 3" Turbo Inlet Duct/AEM Dry Flow Filter, Your Mom's MBC, Blitz FMIC, 890cc and 1000cc injectors, Tomei FPR, Walbro, Rtek 2.1 ECU, Taurus E-Fan, Turbonetics BOV, 3" Motoria/Corksport Turbo Back Exhaust, Emissions Removed, Greddy Boost Gauge, Megan Racing Water Temp Gauge, 5one5 Triple Gauge Pod, AEM Uego, GP Sports Body Kit, Fiber Images CF Hood, S5 Seats, S5 Tails, S5 Alt, Dual Alt Pulley, D2 Coilovers, NRG Quick Release, Shook Motorsports Radiator, HID's, AN/Steel Braided Oil Cooler Lines, SUPER JDM TYTE DRIFT BUTTON www.DensetsuMotorsports.com www.AZRX7.Com www.FloodersAdventure.com

09-12-2009, 10:35 PM	#3
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	Have you compression checked this engine yet? __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)

09-14-2009, 06:06 PM	#5
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	I would go and get a real vacuum gauge and put it on the car. Connect it to the port that comes out of the side on the manifold right next to the split between upper and lower manifolds. I am inclined to mistrust your stock vacuum gauge. If the vacuum gauge is reading identical to your boost gauge, you almost have to be running on 1 rotor or it should rev up really fast. __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)

09-23-2009, 11:31 PM	#12
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	If the idle is above 750 and the engine is warm, the BAC should be shut. If you unplugged it and the pulsation didn't go away, I doubt that it is the issue. The stock ECU has a 'hole' in the timing map to make the engine idle down while getting excessive air and fuel (5 degrees ATDC). If I program a similar hole into my Haltech, it will do the same oscillations if I set the idle too high. Seriously, try adjusting the idle down to 750 with the check jumper connected and then see what it idles like. This still doesn't explain why the engine is running at such low vacuum. You said that it revs very quickly from idle if you floor it? Are you sure that the timing is correct? By press the TPS in all the way, you mean floor the gas, right? Pressing in the TPS without moving the pedal shouldn't make the engine rev to the redline. __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)

09-21-2009, 10:57 PM	#10
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	Hopping is common around that speed, the stock ECU advances the timing quite a bit at 1200 rpm. Try adjusting the idle down to 750 rpm. It could be the TPS, but it is not uncommon for a properly tuned car to hunt if the idle speed is set too high.