Paint Prep Problem...

BLKTOPTRVL · 08-17-2008, 03:08 PM

A few years ago, my master cylinder went bad. It leaked brake fluid over the driver side frame rail. I decided to leave it until I replace the engine.

I recently pulled the engine a while ago, but before I put the replacement back in I decided to try to clean up the paint where the brake fluid leaked. So, I scraped the loose paint from the rail - this paint was loose from the battery compartment to the firewall.

After unbolting and moving the wiring and hoses far enough that I can get a spray paint into the damaged area, I am almost ready to repaint.

Problem is that the rail is now bare metal (no rust) in most places, but because I have not pulled and stripped all of the area, there are sections near and on the rail where there is still grease and the remainder of the paint that was not loosened by the brake fluid.

Question:

What chemical can I use to clean the rail in preparation for priming/painting? WD-40 would certainly get the grease off, but wouldn’t leave the surface unpaintable. Any suggestions for a cleaner that won’t remove more paint?

djmtsu · 08-17-2008, 03:47 PM

TAL Strip. You can get it at places like Advance Auto Parts.

BLKTOPTRVL · 08-18-2008, 05:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djmtsu

TAL Strip. You can get it at places like Advance Auto Parts.

Thanks, but that will strip more paint.

djmtsu · 08-18-2008, 06:54 AM

Sorry! I read it wrong.

I would try either Purple Power or undiluted Simple Green.

classicauto · 08-18-2008, 01:34 PM

Also look for "silicone wax remover" which is basically toned down gunwash or lacquer thinner used for final wiping of panels to remove grease and hands oils. It'll work very well to remove the grease and its residue.

Its available from many companies under many names and numbers, but the general name is silicone wax remover

blwnrtr93 · 08-18-2008, 04:56 PM

SuperClean works pretty well, too.

firzen · 10-23-2008, 12:42 AM

I use Purple Power first to get as much grease off without damaging the paint. If there's some surface rust, I use Eastwood Fast Etch to immobilize the rust then hit it with acetone make sure it doesn't eat the metal. Then I use Eastwood PRE to prime the surface before painting.

Even if you got no rust, it would still be a good idea to use some metal wash that converts the steel surface to something more resistant to threats of future rust.

Damn, that sounded like some commercial for a bunch of different products...

Cp1 · 10-23-2008, 08:31 AM

ask any autobody supply store for their best grease and wax remover.. if you tell them the same thing you posted they will know what your talking about.

JunpoweR · 12-08-2008, 01:47 PM

There is a chemical called "Metal Prep" which washes and nutralizes the rust..PPG DX520 is for galvanized or bare metal surfaces and
PPG DX579 is for aluminum surface prep.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/rustremove.aspx
I use this solution to prepare all bare metal before sealer/primer.
Usually you mix 1 part solution and 5 parts water.
Be sure to wear gloves during application and not to splash any of it around, this stuff is highly corrosive.
Follow directions or PM me for pointers.

To wash all the grease off just use dish washing liquid detergent and a good ole brush before using metal prep chemicals.
If you paint without using bare metal prep you will see rust come back and bubbles form under the paint. It will also fall off once the rust starts.

08-17-2008, 03:08 PM	#1
BLKTOPTRVL Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 192 Rep Power: 17	Paint Prep Problem... A few years ago, my master cylinder went bad. It leaked brake fluid over the driver side frame rail. I decided to leave it until I replace the engine. I recently pulled the engine a while ago, but before I put the replacement back in I decided to try to clean up the paint where the brake fluid leaked. So, I scraped the loose paint from the rail - this paint was loose from the battery compartment to the firewall. After unbolting and moving the wiring and hoses far enough that I can get a spray paint into the damaged area, I am almost ready to repaint. Problem is that the rail is now bare metal (no rust) in most places, but because I have not pulled and stripped all of the area, there are sections near and on the rail where there is still grease and the remainder of the paint that was not loosened by the brake fluid. Question: What chemical can I use to clean the rail in preparation for priming/painting? WD-40 would certainly get the grease off, but wouldn’t leave the surface unpaintable. Any suggestions for a cleaner that won’t remove more paint? __________________ ...shoot a mother-humpin moose, eight days of the week...

08-17-2008, 03:47 PM	#2
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	TAL Strip. You can get it at places like Advance Auto Parts. __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

08-18-2008, 06:54 AM	#4
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	Sorry! I read it wrong. I would try either Purple Power or undiluted Simple Green. __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

08-18-2008, 04:56 PM	#6
blwnrtr93 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: AL iTrader: (1) Posts: 379 Rep Power: 17	SuperClean works pretty well, too. __________________ 1993 BB RX-7 2005 Black Mazda 6i 1991 Primer Celica GT 1968 Camo Chevy P/U Garfinkle's Airpump Idler Pulley: Keep the stock contact patch on your water pump w/o running Airpump!

12-08-2008, 01:47 PM	#9
JunpoweR Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: May 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 66 Rep Power: 0	There is a chemical called "Metal Prep" which washes and nutralizes the rust..PPG DX520 is for galvanized or bare metal surfaces and PPG DX579 is for aluminum surface prep. http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/rustremove.aspx I use this solution to prepare all bare metal before sealer/primer. Usually you mix 1 part solution and 5 parts water. Be sure to wear gloves during application and not to splash any of it around, this stuff is highly corrosive. Follow directions or PM me for pointers. To wash all the grease off just use dish washing liquid detergent and a good ole brush before using metal prep chemicals. If you paint without using bare metal prep you will see rust come back and bubbles form under the paint. It will also fall off once the rust starts. __________________ --^v--JunpoweR--^v-- "90 GTUs Crystal White GT35 WB TA Project "90 GTUs Brilliant Black Restoration 1984 GSL-SE Daily Last edited by JunpoweR; 12-08-2008 at 01:53 PM..

08-18-2008, 01:34 PM	#5
classicauto crash auto?fix auto Join Date: Feb 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 816 Rep Power: 17	Also look for "silicone wax remover" which is basically toned down gunwash or lacquer thinner used for final wiping of panels to remove grease and hands oils. It'll work very well to remove the grease and its residue. Its available from many companies under many names and numbers, but the general name is silicone wax remover

10-23-2008, 12:42 AM	#7
firzen Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (2) Posts: 231 Rep Power: 17	I use Purple Power first to get as much grease off without damaging the paint. If there's some surface rust, I use Eastwood Fast Etch to immobilize the rust then hit it with acetone make sure it doesn't eat the metal. Then I use Eastwood PRE to prime the surface before painting. Even if you got no rust, it would still be a good idea to use some metal wash that converts the steel surface to something more resistant to threats of future rust. Damn, that sounded like some commercial for a bunch of different products...