Mitchocalypse build V2

RICE RACING · 05-14-2014, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

EH?

Okay I'll do this as well as check the timing and adjust if need be. AFR should be a clear indication of fuel as well, correct?

yes

Mitchocalypse · 05-16-2014, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RICE RACING

The engine sounds like it does not have enough fuel going through it, so one simple test is wind up your fuel pressure regulator to 60psi from the ~45psi it set at now and take another video.... it should sound better.

Will need to be remapped to suit the street port as its was run on a stock 13B-REW donk as sent to you.

I had a couple fellows on a local forum suggest that it might be running on one rotor so i decided to test that suggestion out.

So i checked and only the front rotor is firing. I pulled the plugs from the rear rotor and there is definitely fuel, and tested spark, which there is definitely spark. All I can say right now is that the timing needs to be calibrated and i'll be doing that in the morning with some assistance. That might? fix the issue.. I'm quite sure it was idling on 2 rotors at one point. The rpm increased slightly and it sounded way smoother. Of course i didn't check the wideband to know for sure, but after killing it and checking the plugs again and putting them back in, it wouldn't go back to supposed 2-rotor mode. This time i checked the wideband and it was like 19+ whenever i gave some throttle so yeah that tells me that the rotor wasn't firing. and it sounded the same as previous one rotor mode.

But i don't know why i'm wasting my time testing this stuff when I know the timing needs to be calibrated. Once thats done i'm sure it will be fine. 2-rotor mode sounded much more "normal"

Mitchocalypse · 06-16-2014, 12:14 PM

Well.. GG RX-7.
It's alive!

Friday when I got home I turned the OMP function on the ecu off and it revved properly. After that I fixed a small oil leak (loose fitting.. Whoops) and bled the brakes. Finished everything at like 11:30 and took it for a few laps around the block and everything seemed to be in check. Then as I was putting it away my faggy neighbour came and bitched cause he's a faggot.

Saturday, loaded the bumper in the car (JUST) fit to take to a friends shop for a slight mod in order to make it fit. Did that and it looks super sweet. (No pics cause I didn't have any time). It's still super dusty though cause it hasn't been washed in 2 years LOL.

Then Sunday morning I woke up to get back to m place in time for Father's Day brunch and on the highway it started to cut out so I pulled over.. Defs out of gas. LOL. In my defence the fuel gauge isn't plugged in. Ah well. So a friends came and rescued me, but not before I had the chance to go check some stuff out and fuck up the fuel pump wiring. So now I am on the side of the highway out of gas and my fuel pump doesn't have power. So I toocm the power wire of my boost controller which I made really long for some reason and used a key to saw off a section and just hot wired the pump directly to the battery. Great! Now everything is working again.

Until I get about a block away from my house, the coolant buzzer goes off so I quickly pull over and kill it. Pop the hood.. Yeah blew off a rad hose. LOLOL. So I just pushed it the rest of the way back and parked it in the garage cause I didn't really feel like doing anything else that day.

But anyways, 2 easy fixes, main point is that the car is on the road! Quick oil change and coolant fill and I guess fuel pump rewire and I'll be good to FSU on Friday night again.

chibikougan · 06-16-2014, 12:27 PM

Whoop!

speedjunkie · 06-17-2014, 04:48 PM

Excellent!

Prodigy · 06-17-2014, 05:36 PM

not to say I told you so, but I did say that is was probably just some stupid little switch or setting... becsuse th asts usually what it is when everything else working properly...

Glad to hear it's going good...

maybe I'll stop by this weekend and see her in person...

Jon.

Mitchocalypse · 07-19-2014, 10:38 PM

Kay fuck so last night i go to put in proper headlights (and remove the cheapo shitty HIDs i had) so do that, finish up, and then decide i need to hear the car so start it... Wonderful. Runs for a short while then i kill it and leave.

I can't remember exactly what i was doing today but i went in to go start it again/drive.. No start. I turn the fuel pump off, turn it over a bit (do that twice) try starting again, kinda stumbles then dies off. Future attempts would fail, so fuck, we've got a flooded engine on our hands.

Pull plugs, clean off crank engine get fuel cloud out. Great, hook it back up, try to start.. not much. Actually wait, i got it to start decently once but then it died shortly after and after that doing the "simple" de-flood procedure gave no results. So we have a VERY flooded engine (losing compression on seals cause no oil or anything.) So i pull the plugs again, turn it over a bit, then put some 2-stroke oil in the plug holes. Can't say how much but a decent amount. Go to start it up - takes a second but it goes and pours out some smoke from the oil.. yay at least its started. I let it idle a bit to burn that off, and STUPID me, i adjusted the screw because i was playing with it before i don't know why, but i just made it idle with the oil in there.

After that burned off im guessing, the idle just ran away. as in started to rev high so i killed it as fast as i could. Adjust the screw down significantly, start it up, it starts fine, idles fine.. but on ONE ROTOR. FOR FUCK SAKES.

Too late to do anything more now but I guess tomorrow i'll try some trouble shooting. Fuck sakes though was running just fine and then a simple de-flood causes shit to go a-wire. No clue where to look. Last time the one-rotor fix was a new injector pigtail so that doesn't really help me much. Not sure where to look but fuck sakes.

Oh and im sure i flooded it again too

Mitchocalypse · 03-10-2015, 03:29 AM

I've been a ghost in the RX-7 community as of lately. With life progressing as it inevitably does, starting to want different things and this car is making things tougher than they need to be.

I'll be done my degree in 2 months and the job hunt is going pretty shitty because of the oil price. However I'm still trying to be optimistic about that.. I'm doing everything I can to get my resume seen, whether i'm working in the engineering department or as an operator for the first bit I'd be more than happy. However either path leads to me not having much room for this car.

A) living downtown in the city, i put it in storage and probably never touch it
B) living in a small oilfield town where I would have to find somewhere else to store it and again probably never touch it.

If I could go back I probably wouldn't have gone so balls deep with this but it's too late now. I was just in the garage the other day mirin' it and it sure is purdy. Anyways looking at my options..

I) Sell it all as one. Take a huge loss.
II) Part it out. Take a long time, still never get anywhere close to my initial investment back
III) Finish it.

Option III is kind of funny because the last little while i've just been thinking how much more work is required to get things to where I want them. It's running now and thats great but it's so far from done still. It still feels overwhelming, but yesterday I took a second to write down everything I wanted done, about how long it would take to do, the parts I will need, and an approximate (high end - since it always ends up being in the upper echelon anyways) cost for each item.

That actually got me pretty excited because it is so do-able. It's always so much easier to focus on one task at a time than to look at the whole big picture.

Heres the list. For all the fab stuff i'm lucky enough to have a friend who bought a new tig welder for his shop and is definitely capable of doing that work for a couple steaks.

Repair W/M Tank
Secure Brake Prop. Valve
Replace Wheel Stud
Secure Battery
Replace Windshield
Add fuel pump
Fix Oil leak
Check Oil return
Polish Turbo & Catch Can
Make Intercooler hot-side Piping
Re-route + wrap WG Dump pipes
Fuel Pump Wiring
Fix exhaust leaks
Boost Controller Wiring
99 Spec Steering Wheel (Protégé)
Cut Main Pulley
Catch Can bracket
Re-drill FPR bracket
Repair, finish, and secure vac lines
Turbo Blanket
Heat Sheild Turbo Water Lines
Get Fuel Gauge Working
Install W/M kit
Build Intake
Re-install trunk stuff
Paint + Install Sideskirts (Perm)
Install Skid plates
Install engine torque damper
Gold foil wrap intake + hot side IC
Roll rear fenders + spacer, spacer on front
Tune
New Wiring Harness (Rywire)**

One of the fuel fittings (presumably) on the w/m tank sprung a leak so it won't hold pressure and it leaks fuel into the tank so I'll have a rad shop take care of that. The wheel stud is stripped from me being an idiot. Everything else is pretty self explanatory.

The asterix next to the rywire harness is cause the shop I'll probably have tune the car can work with anything but is a licensed Microtech dealer so they tune a lot of those. When you buy the ecu it also comes with a harness and they tune it and touch up the tune as often as you want for free as long as you own the car. So i'd have to decide if i want to stick with the link and get the rywire or sell that off and just have them completely redo the ecu and harness with the microtech.

Some good news is that for the w/m install, the pressure switch and boost air supply for the nozzle are 1/8" npt so I can screw them right into the vacuum manifold i already have installed seen in this older pic (rad hose has since been re-routed) on the far left.

Heres a pic of my friends battery install. I would try to get him to pretty much copy exactly that for me. I would have a little homemade fuse/relay box beside it though for the boost controller, fuel pumps and water injection 12v power source.

My trunk wont look near as clean cause I have all my fuel fitting sticking out but its something to look at.

Obviously not everything is crucial to get it running right but this should be everything I need to get the car to where i wanted it to be when I started this project. I might have to source some rear bins and trunk parts since I know i sold some stuff, not sure what though.

I figure it will end up costing me in the vicinity of 4000 dollars to get all this done and hopefully I land a job and get this thing finished up. It really will be a show worthy car when its all done. Heck it already turns heads at meets!

Here's to the final stretch!

Fendamonky · 03-10-2015, 06:16 AM

Def keep the car and just plug away at it in manageable bits!!

speedjunkie · 03-10-2015, 07:24 AM

I agree. Keep it and finish it. You already have it, and if it's paid off I never see why people sell them unless it costs so much to actually store it somewhere. Even if it takes years to finish, who cares? My only worry with that is being able to find parts years later if you end up doing that haha.

***TitaniumTT*** · 03-10-2015, 08:24 AM

Keep the link, Eff the microwreck unless it's going to be a drag only car....

chibikougan · 03-10-2015, 02:32 PM

KEEP it Hozer.

06-16-2014, 12:14 PM	#93
Mitchocalypse Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Edmonton, AB iTrader: (0) Posts: 179 Rep Power: 13	Well.. GG RX-7. It's alive! Friday when I got home I turned the OMP function on the ecu off and it revved properly. After that I fixed a small oil leak (loose fitting.. Whoops) and bled the brakes. Finished everything at like 11:30 and took it for a few laps around the block and everything seemed to be in check. Then as I was putting it away my faggy neighbour came and bitched cause he's a faggot. Saturday, loaded the bumper in the car (JUST) fit to take to a friends shop for a slight mod in order to make it fit. Did that and it looks super sweet. (No pics cause I didn't have any time). It's still super dusty though cause it hasn't been washed in 2 years LOL. Then Sunday morning I woke up to get back to m place in time for Father's Day brunch and on the highway it started to cut out so I pulled over.. Defs out of gas. LOL. In my defence the fuel gauge isn't plugged in. Ah well. So a friends came and rescued me, but not before I had the chance to go check some stuff out and fuck up the fuel pump wiring. So now I am on the side of the highway out of gas and my fuel pump doesn't have power. So I toocm the power wire of my boost controller which I made really long for some reason and used a key to saw off a section and just hot wired the pump directly to the battery. Great! Now everything is working again. Until I get about a block away from my house, the coolant buzzer goes off so I quickly pull over and kill it. Pop the hood.. Yeah blew off a rad hose. LOLOL. So I just pushed it the rest of the way back and parked it in the garage cause I didn't really feel like doing anything else that day. But anyways, 2 easy fixes, main point is that the car is on the road! Quick oil change and coolant fill and I guess fuel pump rewire and I'll be good to FSU on Friday night again. __________________

07-19-2014, 10:38 PM	#97
Mitchocalypse Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Edmonton, AB iTrader: (0) Posts: 179 Rep Power: 13	Kay fuck so last night i go to put in proper headlights (and remove the cheapo shitty HIDs i had) so do that, finish up, and then decide i need to hear the car so start it... Wonderful. Runs for a short while then i kill it and leave. I can't remember exactly what i was doing today but i went in to go start it again/drive.. No start. I turn the fuel pump off, turn it over a bit (do that twice) try starting again, kinda stumbles then dies off. Future attempts would fail, so fuck, we've got a flooded engine on our hands. Pull plugs, clean off crank engine get fuel cloud out. Great, hook it back up, try to start.. not much. Actually wait, i got it to start decently once but then it died shortly after and after that doing the "simple" de-flood procedure gave no results. So we have a VERY flooded engine (losing compression on seals cause no oil or anything.) So i pull the plugs again, turn it over a bit, then put some 2-stroke oil in the plug holes. Can't say how much but a decent amount. Go to start it up - takes a second but it goes and pours out some smoke from the oil.. yay at least its started. I let it idle a bit to burn that off, and STUPID me, i adjusted the screw because i was playing with it before i don't know why, but i just made it idle with the oil in there. After that burned off im guessing, the idle just ran away. as in started to rev high so i killed it as fast as i could. Adjust the screw down significantly, start it up, it starts fine, idles fine.. but on ONE ROTOR. FOR FUCK SAKES. Too late to do anything more now but I guess tomorrow i'll try some trouble shooting. Fuck sakes though was running just fine and then a simple de-flood causes shit to go a-wire. No clue where to look. Last time the one-rotor fix was a new injector pigtail so that doesn't really help me much. Not sure where to look but fuck sakes. Oh and im sure i flooded it again too __________________

03-10-2015, 03:29 AM	#98
Mitchocalypse Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Edmonton, AB iTrader: (0) Posts: 179 Rep Power: 13	I've been a ghost in the RX-7 community as of lately. With life progressing as it inevitably does, starting to want different things and this car is making things tougher than they need to be. I'll be done my degree in 2 months and the job hunt is going pretty shitty because of the oil price. However I'm still trying to be optimistic about that.. I'm doing everything I can to get my resume seen, whether i'm working in the engineering department or as an operator for the first bit I'd be more than happy. However either path leads to me not having much room for this car. A) living downtown in the city, i put it in storage and probably never touch it B) living in a small oilfield town where I would have to find somewhere else to store it and again probably never touch it. If I could go back I probably wouldn't have gone so balls deep with this but it's too late now. I was just in the garage the other day mirin' it and it sure is purdy. Anyways looking at my options.. I) Sell it all as one. Take a huge loss. II) Part it out. Take a long time, still never get anywhere close to my initial investment back III) Finish it. Option III is kind of funny because the last little while i've just been thinking how much more work is required to get things to where I want them. It's running now and thats great but it's so far from done still. It still feels overwhelming, but yesterday I took a second to write down everything I wanted done, about how long it would take to do, the parts I will need, and an approximate (high end - since it always ends up being in the upper echelon anyways) cost for each item. That actually got me pretty excited because it is so do-able. It's always so much easier to focus on one task at a time than to look at the whole big picture. Heres the list. For all the fab stuff i'm lucky enough to have a friend who bought a new tig welder for his shop and is definitely capable of doing that work for a couple steaks. Repair W/M Tank Secure Brake Prop. Valve Replace Wheel Stud Secure Battery Replace Windshield Add fuel pump Fix Oil leak Check Oil return Polish Turbo & Catch Can Make Intercooler hot-side Piping Re-route + wrap WG Dump pipes Fuel Pump Wiring Fix exhaust leaks Boost Controller Wiring 99 Spec Steering Wheel (Protégé) Cut Main Pulley Catch Can bracket Re-drill FPR bracket Repair, finish, and secure vac lines Turbo Blanket Heat Sheild Turbo Water Lines Get Fuel Gauge Working Install W/M kit Build Intake Re-install trunk stuff Paint + Install Sideskirts (Perm) Install Skid plates Install engine torque damper Gold foil wrap intake + hot side IC Roll rear fenders + spacer, spacer on front Tune New Wiring Harness (Rywire)** One of the fuel fittings (presumably) on the w/m tank sprung a leak so it won't hold pressure and it leaks fuel into the tank so I'll have a rad shop take care of that. The wheel stud is stripped from me being an idiot. Everything else is pretty self explanatory. The asterix next to the rywire harness is cause the shop I'll probably have tune the car can work with anything but is a licensed Microtech dealer so they tune a lot of those. When you buy the ecu it also comes with a harness and they tune it and touch up the tune as often as you want for free as long as you own the car. So i'd have to decide if i want to stick with the link and get the rywire or sell that off and just have them completely redo the ecu and harness with the microtech. Some good news is that for the w/m install, the pressure switch and boost air supply for the nozzle are 1/8" npt so I can screw them right into the vacuum manifold i already have installed seen in this older pic (rad hose has since been re-routed) on the far left. Heres a pic of my friends battery install. I would try to get him to pretty much copy exactly that for me. I would have a little homemade fuse/relay box beside it though for the boost controller, fuel pumps and water injection 12v power source. My trunk wont look near as clean cause I have all my fuel fitting sticking out but its something to look at. Obviously not everything is crucial to get it running right but this should be everything I need to get the car to where i wanted it to be when I started this project. I might have to source some rear bins and trunk parts since I know i sold some stuff, not sure what though. I figure it will end up costing me in the vicinity of 4000 dollars to get all this done and hopefully I land a job and get this thing finished up. It really will be a show worthy car when its all done. Heck it already turns heads at meets! Here's to the final stretch! __________________ Last edited by Mitchocalypse; 03-10-2015 at 03:33 AM..

03-10-2015, 08:24 AM	#101
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Keep the link, Eff the microwreck unless it's going to be a drag only car.... __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

06-17-2014, 04:48 PM	#95
speedjunkie RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Colorado Springs, CO iTrader: (1) Posts: 2,089 Rep Power: 19	Excellent!

03-10-2015, 07:24 AM	#100
speedjunkie RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Colorado Springs, CO iTrader: (1) Posts: 2,089 Rep Power: 19	I agree. Keep it and finish it. You already have it, and if it's paid off I never see why people sell them unless it costs so much to actually store it somewhere. Even if it takes years to finish, who cares? My only worry with that is being able to find parts years later if you end up doing that haha.