Breaking up sometimes at WOT, Mircotech w/ GT35R

[MolotovMan]

Back story on my car:
I was getting together parts to turbocharge my GTUs and found a great deal on a 397WHP vert so I bought it.

I got very limited paperwork on it but here is what I know:
Put together and tuned at Speed1
It has a Microtech(I think it's an LT-10S but I haven't pulled the carpet to look)
Bosch Coils in stock location
S5 TII block, street ported
GT35R Turbo
Adequate fuel(AFR's are in the 11's when it happens)
Stock spark plugs w/ less than 5k on them
93octane with Water Meth after 12PSI
Idemitsu pre-mix 1:1
I get gas at the same Sunoco gas station

The car runs great for the most part but since it's been getting warmer, when the car is warmed up after I've been driving it for a while and boost hard or go WOT it cuts out intermittently. It's less of a bogging and more of a feeling like the mixture is not igniting and it's never a similar pattern. When it was 50/60 degrees out I had no trouble. I first noticed it at the drag strip and it killed my time!

I haven't dug into the issue that much yet but I'm suspecting it's the spark plugs or coils.

What does it sound like to you?
If it's plugs, what do you suggest running?

Thank you in advance.

[TitaniumTT]

I'm guessing you're Billy's friend and this is a white 'Vert right?

If all this is true than I'm the one that tuned that car, Barry put it together for the most part from what I know. We didn't do a lot of work to it explaining the lack of paperwork.

We fought voltage, ground and electrical issues in that car for the LONGEST time. Such to the point where I had to show Kyle how to rewire the headlights to make the HIDS turn on because even with the car running they weren't getting enough voltage to turn the damn things on, like less than 10V! I dunno what happened to that car before we got it, but it was a mess and we never found all the problems.... I told Billy to tell you my offer.... when you wanna make that thing a terror and drive like a stock car, let ME know

Anyway, onto your problem.... I've found that microwrecks have a lot of problems, when it comes to ignition breakup though, most of them can be solved in the following way....
Make sure the engine has one good solid ground. The best way to do this is straight from the battery with an acceptable ga, like an 8 or a 6. Generally what I do with these boxes is use an m8x1.25 stud on both rotor housings. Generally studding the rear on top where the TMIC framework and all that jazz bolts. Daisy chain that to the front rotor housing. From the stud on the rear rotor housing, ground the box itself.

Next, make sure that the coils themselves are getting REALLY good clean power. On this particular car I remember having breakup problems on the dyno, I specifically remember this because... and I hate to tell you this because I remember the conversation with Dave.
I couldn't find anything really wrong with it except some kinda weak voltage to the coils. We ohmed out the coils and half of them were bad. I replaced them and the breakup went away. When I asked if I should spend a few hours rewiring them to hopefully prevent it in the future, Barry didn't want to spend the money because... he was probably going to sell it anyway... sorry. So more than likely the coils are bad again because for whatever reason, the voltage in that car sucks donkey balls.

My offer stands man.... hit me up via PM's and we can chat about making that thing a clean ass engine bay, runs like a fucking terror and retains some bone-stock driveability.... I seem to remember that engine being a VERY mild porting, but microwrecks have no idle control along with lacking other things..... IMNSHO microwrecks belong in ITS n/a race cars and that's about it.... Certainly not a turbo rotary when a failing TPS or a few pressure bounces can pop a motor on those things based on the way they calc fuel and load.........

[RICE RACING]

microwreck LOL

[jacobcartmill]

is microwreck still in business???

[MolotovMan]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I'm guessing you're Billy's friend and this is a white 'Vert right?

If all this is true than I'm the one that tuned that car, Barry put it together for the most part from what I know. We didn't do a lot of work to it explaining the lack of paperwork.

We fought voltage, ground and electrical issues in that car for the LONGEST time. Such to the point where I had to show Kyle how to rewire the headlights to make the HIDS turn on because even with the car running they weren't getting enough voltage to turn the damn things on, like less than 10V! I dunno what happened to that car before we got it, but it was a mess and we never found all the problems.... I told Billy to tell you my offer.... when you wanna make that thing a terror and drive like a stock car, let ME know

Anyway, onto your problem.... I've found that microwrecks have a lot of problems, when it comes to ignition breakup though, most of them can be solved in the following way....
Make sure the engine has one good solid ground. The best way to do this is straight from the battery with an acceptable ga, like an 8 or a 6. Generally what I do with these boxes is use an m8x1.25 stud on both rotor housings. Generally studding the rear on top where the TMIC framework and all that jazz bolts. Daisy chain that to the front rotor housing. From the stud on the rear rotor housing, ground the box itself.

Next, make sure that the coils themselves are getting REALLY good clean power. On this particular car I remember having breakup problems on the dyno, I specifically remember this because... and I hate to tell you this because I remember the conversation with Dave.
I couldn't find anything really wrong with it except some kinda weak voltage to the coils. We ohmed out the coils and half of them were bad. I replaced them and the breakup went away. When I asked if I should spend a few hours rewiring them to hopefully prevent it in the future, Barry didn't want to spend the money because... he was probably going to sell it anyway... sorry. So more than likely the coils are bad again because for whatever reason, the voltage in that car sucks donkey balls.

My offer stands man.... hit me up via PM's and we can chat about making that thing a clean ass engine bay, runs like a fucking terror and retains some bone-stock driveability.... I seem to remember that engine being a VERY mild porting, but microwrecks have no idle control along with lacking other things..... IMNSHO microwrecks belong in ITS n/a race cars and that's about it.... Certainly not a turbo rotary when a failing TPS or a few pressure bounces can pop a motor on those things based on the way they calc fuel and load.........

You nailed it, it's BC's car.

Thanks for the tips, I don't have time to reply in detail right now, but I plan on getting in touch with you.
It's my first turbo rotary with a standalone, and from feel when it's working right you did a great job with the tune. I'm still figuring out how everything works, so far I've only changed out the charge pipe clamps for t-bolts and changed out the Greddy RS BOV for a Synapse Synchronic to get rid off all the compressor surge.

I just bought a laptop adapter for the Microtech to use on this car, and my GTUs. I've got an extra brand new LT-10s sitting around and I want to teach myself how to tune it as an N/A.

Thanks again for the reply, I'll get in touch soon!

[Monkman33]

So far, from this thread, I have learned:

This is that type of knowledge, help, and community that these forums thrive on.

To the OP: TTT does a great job on wiring. If you two work out a deal for him to wire anything... take it. :-)

[MolotovMan]

I'm taking advantage of it!

[88turboii]

i did a quick search and it seems like a lot of other guys are having trouble with breakup on those bosch coils as well. you cant go wrong with a set of FC coils or IGN-1A's