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Old 10-08-2012, 11:12 AM   #16
Turbo II Rotor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vex View Post
Wouldn't you get more rigidity out of a strictly welded bar... though if you're using aluminum it will deform.

Good how-to.
That's how I made mine. Copied Brians design for the weld on tabs for the control arm mounts and welded a bar straight between them.







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Old 10-08-2012, 01:55 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor View Post
That's how I made mine. Copied Brians design for the weld on tabs for the control arm mounts and welded a bar straight between them.

Could you post more pics?
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:21 PM   #18
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Specifically of the engine bay
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Old 10-08-2012, 04:50 PM   #19
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Could you post more pics?
Sure thing Rich. I still need to pull it back off and paint it, bare metal rusts with the quickness here in the north east. I made it with the cross tube short enough to fit a socket up on the inside bolt. I used 3/16 plate and traced out the control arm bucket over top, cut it out and welded it to the inside. I then bolted the mounts to the car, measured and cut my 1 1/2" square tube to 24 1/4", hammered it in and welded it in place. I also drilled and tapped the buckets for a zerk fitting so I can grease my delrin bushings on the car.

Flux core FTL. I need to set up an argon tank for my welder.





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Specifically of the engine bay
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:10 PM   #20
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are those the stock Control arm buckets? also would it be worth while to turn this design into a K style support bar?
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:31 PM   #21
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Yes, stock buckets. What do you plan on triangulating the bar to? Something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ULTRA-RACING...ht_4259wt_1017

I don't see much of a point if you have a strut tower bar as that will box the top of the suspension. I have the Mazdatrix one (seems like they don't make it anymore) which triangulates into the firewall and is very rigid. I haven't driven the car with the lower arm bar yet but I notice a difference when jacking the car up.

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Old 10-09-2012, 07:54 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor View Post
I also drilled and tapped the buckets for a zerk fitting so I can grease my delrin bushings on the car.
That's a cool idea right there

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor View Post
Flux core FTL. I need to set up an argon tank for my welder.
Yes... most definately...

is the car driveable? Planning on bringing it up to that auto-x deal if you attend? If you don't I could meet you that night in SW CT
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DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:20 AM   #23
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Please tell me that you have jack stands under the car also not just the cinderblock shown in the picture. That is one of the worst things you could use and its in the weakest position also it doesn't take much to collapse a block that direction. The brace looks good I just want you to stick around long enough to use it.
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:58 PM   #24
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Yeah they aren't the only thing keeping the car from crashing down.

Took some pics when I removed it from the car for paint.


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