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#1 | |
Temporarily insane.
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Changing constantly.
Posts: 283
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
Hey now, I have a running rotary.
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For my collection of short stories: Kindle Nook |
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#2 |
Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
Posts: 1,012
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
Yes you do. You did have a unique excuse for why it wasn't running for that amount of time. Fact can be stranger (and far more painful) than fiction at times.
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#3 | ||
Temporarily insane.
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Changing constantly.
Posts: 283
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
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For my collection of short stories: Kindle Nook |
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#4 |
Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
Posts: 1,012
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
I was wondering how long it would take you to chime in. Yes amazingly enough, yours do run. A last gen 8 I would expect, but the FC is a "Christmas miracle" as they say.
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#5 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Front Royal, VA
Posts: 487
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
I also keep them close to stock. So that makes them less likely to break. From a 9999999595955959 percent chance to 999999999393939 chance.
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#6 |
Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
Posts: 1,012
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
In the continuing saga of the silly old bastard trying stupid stuff out in the shop..
Mostly together. Clearancing the steering rack has been a bit of a PITA. I had to keep nibbling away at the side where the steering shaft goes to get enough room, without going too far. The rack had to come down far enough that the plane of the tie rods was in line with the A arm pivots (as well as centered, with the tie rod pivot points in line with the A arm pivot points, of course). If these angles and pivots aren't pretty damn close you will have bump steer problems. I barely had enough room to make that happen. ![]() ... and a shot of the steering rack sitting up against the mounting plate in it's proper position. As you can see, close, damn close. ![]() I still have to weld in the mounting studs for the rack and close up the gaping holes I made for clearance. I should be done with the steering rack at that point, ... I hope. ![]()
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#7 |
Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
Posts: 1,012
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
Some already know, but I'll recap for those that don't. I had a few problems with the subframe. When I cut my tack welds loose the whole thing sprang out of shape. It turns out that the table I was using to weld my jig to wasn't strong enough and had deformed under the stress. What else is new.
The mounting arms for the A arms appeared to be straight and true, but the frame mounts were off by a fair amount. So break out the cut off wheels and start modifying. ![]() I left the base intact to mount to the frame, but cut away the sides and fitted it to the chassis. This is the new subframe in position. The A arms and wheels are mounted to check all the alignment specs. I'm currently using a 1/2" spacer behind my +42 wheels to allow room to go wider in the future. ![]() I'm still kicking around how to make it adjustable, but most likely it's going to get welded solid to the frame. I have to recheck (several more times) all of my measurements and readings before I do that though. I do NOT want to do this again.
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#8 |
Test Whore - Admin
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Right Behind you son
Posts: 4,581
Rep Power: 10 ![]() |
Looks awesome so far! If I may make a suggestion though.... use a few studs per side on the framerail supported internally by some rather stout pipe and so that your new k-frame
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-The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. -Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED- |
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#9 | |
Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
Posts: 1,012
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
Quote:
I think I need to walk away from it for a little bit before I break out the BFH and torch. ![]()
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#10 |
Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
Posts: 1,012
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
Still haven't given up. I will out stubborn this thing yet.
I've been working a lot of hours for harvest, but have had a little time to get a few things done. I did get the subframe fitted and bolted in with full adjustment as I had originally planned. I just needed Brian to kick me in the butt over it when I had reached saturation level on disgust. Got the other lower arm modified to bolt the shock/strut near the ball joint. Changed the strut over to accept the spring seat and lower heim joint. Reassembled everything and dropped the car back on to it own springs. Finally it's sitting back on the ground without the use of jack stands! I also installed the steering rack to ensure that it still fit. It did and the bump steer angles look a lot better than they did. Fitted the strut/shock tops and got them welded in. The hood even shuts! That wasn't guaranteed, as the top of the shock adjusters was going to be close. I have clearance, not much clearance, but clearance nonetheless. ![]() ![]() I have to work out something to lock the tops down a little better. I'm leery that it may come loose with only three bolts holding them, even though this was how the kit was set up. I did up the bolts from 5/16" to 1/2", but would be more comfortable if I can get at least two or three more bolts holding them. It's getting there ... slowly ... but getting there.
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#11 |
My minds tellin' me no...
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 4,043
Rep Power: 22 ![]() |
Looking good Gunny.
6 months to go....
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1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5 |
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#12 |
Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
Posts: 1,012
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
Grrr... you would have to bring that up. My PITA is competing with the Cosmo for "most unlikely to ever make a DGRR" honors.
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#13 |
Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
Posts: 1,012
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
![]() Engine and transmission has been in and out about a dozen times. Had to be done to get the fit right and do the necessary clearancing on the subframe. I'm dropping the engine down and back 2 to 3 inches from the original position. ![]() Fabricated a front mounting plate using 1/4" plate and spherical ball mounts. It will be mounted to tabs welded to the frame so I can adjust the position of the lower subframe without affecting the engine placement. ![]() These fit inside the tube portions on the ends of the mounting plate with the retaining rings keeping them from moving. The spherical mounts will effectively be solid mounts but still allow movement to drop the engine back to get at the transmission bolts, etc. Hopefully it will also keep anything from binding up and breaking. The exhaust header fit, but required some clearancing (you can kind of see where I've done some grinding on the top picture where the header is closest to the subframe). I wanted to leave enough air gap so I don't melt the urethane bushings out of the inside lower control arm mounts. Between working and all the fiddling necessary it doesn't seem to be making a lot of progress. I'll keep plugging away at it. Countdown to DGRR. ![]()
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 Last edited by GySgtFrank; 11-02-2014 at 01:36 PM. |
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#14 |
Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
Posts: 1,012
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
finished product.
![]() I went with urethane bushings instead of the spherical mounts because I was worried about them transmitting too much vibration and noise.
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#15 | |
⊙⊙
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Great Falls
Posts: 1,258
Rep Power: 17 ![]() |
noice!
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