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Old 11-02-2014, 08:00 PM   #1
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Originally Posted by GySgtFrank View Post
hmmm. You may be the only one in BAW with a running rotary. Except AJ and Dan'l who don't count. AJ because he never gets anything done beyond the stock setup and Dan'l because he can't actually drive the thing.
Hey now, I have a running rotary.
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:58 PM   #2
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Hey now, I have a running rotary.
Yes you do. You did have a unique excuse for why it wasn't running for that amount of time. Fact can be stranger (and far more painful) than fiction at times.
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Old 11-03-2014, 09:57 PM   #3
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Yes you do. You did have a unique excuse for why it wasn't running for that amount of time. Fact can be stranger (and far more painful) than fiction at times.
It runs now. That is all that matters.
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Old 07-07-2014, 08:56 PM   #4
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I was wondering how long it would take you to chime in. Yes amazingly enough, yours do run. A last gen 8 I would expect, but the FC is a "Christmas miracle" as they say.
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:10 PM   #5
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I also keep them close to stock. So that makes them less likely to break. From a 9999999595955959 percent chance to 999999999393939 chance.
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Old 07-12-2014, 11:35 AM   #6
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In the continuing saga of the silly old bastard trying stupid stuff out in the shop..


Mostly together. Clearancing the steering rack has been a bit of a PITA. I had to keep nibbling away at the side where the steering shaft goes to get enough room, without going too far. The rack had to come down far enough that the plane of the tie rods was in line with the A arm pivots (as well as centered, with the tie rod pivot points in line with the A arm pivot points, of course). If these angles and pivots aren't pretty damn close you will have bump steer problems. I barely had enough room to make that happen.

steering rack clearancing 1 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr


... and a shot of the steering rack sitting up against the mounting plate in it's proper position. As you can see, close, damn close.


steering rack clearancing 2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

I still have to weld in the mounting studs for the rack and close up the gaping holes I made for clearance. I should be done with the steering rack at that point, ... I hope.
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Old 07-22-2014, 09:17 PM   #7
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Some already know, but I'll recap for those that don't. I had a few problems with the subframe. When I cut my tack welds loose the whole thing sprang out of shape. It turns out that the table I was using to weld my jig to wasn't strong enough and had deformed under the stress. What else is new.

The mounting arms for the A arms appeared to be straight and true, but the frame mounts were off by a fair amount. So break out the cut off wheels and start modifying.

I left the base intact to mount to the frame, but cut away the sides and fitted it to the chassis.

This is the new subframe in position. The A arms and wheels are mounted to check all the alignment specs. I'm currently using a 1/2" spacer behind my +42 wheels to allow room to go wider in the future.

crossmember v2.2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr


I'm still kicking around how to make it adjustable, but most likely it's going to get welded solid to the frame. I have to recheck (several more times) all of my measurements and readings before I do that though. I do NOT want to do this again.
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Old 07-22-2014, 10:56 PM   #8
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Looks awesome so far! If I may make a suggestion though.... use a few studs per side on the framerail supported internally by some rather stout pipe and so that your new k-frame can be removeable and or modifiable outside of the car.... This would be my suggestion... I always like it when things can unbolt or be removed... then again I'm always breaking shit and taking shit apart.... so I always try to incorporate into my designs making things easily removeable. My intercooler setup for example... as intricate as it is, there's 10 bolts and the entire setup, 85% of the ducting and both heat exchangers drop right out....
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Old 07-23-2014, 10:55 AM   #9
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Looks awesome so far! If I may make a suggestion though.... use a few studs per side on the framerail supported internally by some rather stout pipe and so that your new k-frame can be removeable and or modifiable outside of the car.... This would be my suggestion... I always like it when things can unbolt or be removed... then again I'm always breaking shit and taking shit apart.... so I always try to incorporate into my designs making things easily removeable. My intercooler setup for example... as intricate as it is, there's 10 bolts and the entire setup, 85% of the ducting and both heat exchangers drop right out....
That is what the plan was, but it's starting to piss me off to the point where I'm getting really sick of dicking around with it. I already have the through holes and crush tubes in the rails to bolt it in. That's going to require some more mods since I screwed up on the mounting surface. You're right though, I should just quit whining and do it.

I think I need to walk away from it for a little bit before I break out the BFH and torch.
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Old 10-02-2014, 05:33 PM   #10
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Still haven't given up. I will out stubborn this thing yet.

I've been working a lot of hours for harvest, but have had a little time to get a few things done.

I did get the subframe fitted and bolted in with full adjustment as I had originally planned. I just needed Brian to kick me in the butt over it when I had reached saturation level on disgust.

Got the other lower arm modified to bolt the shock/strut near the ball joint.

Changed the strut over to accept the spring seat and lower heim joint.

Reassembled everything and dropped the car back on to it own springs. Finally it's sitting back on the ground without the use of jack stands!

I also installed the steering rack to ensure that it still fit. It did and the bump steer angles look a lot better than they did.

Fitted the strut/shock tops and got them welded in. The hood even shuts! That wasn't guaranteed, as the top of the shock adjusters was going to be close. I have clearance, not much clearance, but clearance nonetheless.

shock tops by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

hood closed by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

I have to work out something to lock the tops down a little better. I'm leery that it may come loose with only three bolts holding them, even though this was how the kit was set up. I did up the bolts from 5/16" to 1/2", but would be more comfortable if I can get at least two or three more bolts holding them.

It's getting there ... slowly ... but getting there.
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Old 10-03-2014, 11:38 AM   #11
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Looking good Gunny.

6 months to go....
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Old 10-03-2014, 08:14 PM   #12
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Looking good Gunny.

6 months to go....
Grrr... you would have to bring that up. My PITA is competing with the Cosmo for "most unlikely to ever make a DGRR" honors.
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Old 11-02-2014, 01:33 PM   #13
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Not a whole lot to report, but I figured that I would post a few pictures so nobody would think it has whooped my butt yet.

Engine and transmission has been in and out about a dozen times. Had to be done to get the fit right and do the necessary clearancing on the subframe. I'm dropping the engine down and back 2 to 3 inches from the original position.


engine mounting plate by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Fabricated a front mounting plate using 1/4" plate and spherical ball mounts. It will be mounted to tabs welded to the frame so I can adjust the position of the lower subframe without affecting the engine placement.

engine mounting joints by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

These fit inside the tube portions on the ends of the mounting plate with the retaining rings keeping them from moving. The spherical mounts will effectively be solid mounts but still allow movement to drop the engine back to get at the transmission bolts, etc. Hopefully it will also keep anything from binding up and breaking.

The exhaust header fit, but required some clearancing (you can kind of see where I've done some grinding on the top picture where the header is closest to the subframe). I wanted to leave enough air gap so I don't melt the urethane bushings out of the inside lower control arm mounts.

Between working and all the fiddling necessary it doesn't seem to be making a lot of progress. I'll keep plugging away at it.

Countdown to DGRR.
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Last edited by GySgtFrank; 11-02-2014 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 11-11-2014, 07:52 PM   #14
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finished product.

engine mounting plate - finished by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

I went with urethane bushings instead of the spherical mounts because I was worried about them transmitting too much vibration and noise.
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:36 PM   #15
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noice!
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