It looked so simple at first! - Page 12

GySgtFrank · 12-15-2013, 09:01 PM

shock tower rough by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

OK, go ahead and laugh. The passenger side is roughed in and back on the ground. Had to modify the original struts to take a heim joint at the bottom and weld on a perch to accept the coil over spring. Did some clearancing on the lower arm and added tabs to mount the shock as far out on the arm as possible. Then the real fun began trying to get the upper plate at the right height and angles so that nothing binds as the wheel moves, keep it within the bounds of ride height adjustment, and make sure the shock doesn't stick through the hood (the last was harder than it sounds). Also modified the coil over tube and went to a 275 pound 12" tall spring. I need to get some more measurements and do some adjusting now that it's on the ground. Then close and clean it up. Not looking forward to doing the other side, but it should go a bit faster now that I have some idea of what the he** I'm doing.

chibikougan · 12-15-2013, 11:02 PM

Nice!

GySgtFrank · 01-11-2014, 06:44 PM

Just to let y'all know I'm still at it. Now that I trial fitted both sides, found that my top mounts were about 1 1/2 inches too far back. I was unable to move them far enough even with the adjustment I built in. Put in new upper A arm mounts and pulled everything back apart to put in the actual bracing and shock/spring mounts. Starting to get it ground down and cleaned up. Slow, but getting there.

JL1RX7 · 01-11-2014, 07:01 PM

Gunny How much original stuff is left? Lots of hard work is see.

GySgtFrank · 01-11-2014, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

Gunny How much original stuff is left? Lots of hard work is see.

The front and rear frame stubs are still original.

JL1RX7 · 01-11-2014, 07:09 PM

Oh and the VIN plate on the firewall. Don't forget that!

GySgtFrank · 01-11-2014, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

Oh and the VIN plate on the firewall. Don't forget that!

Well, hopefully the mods won't show from the outside. It should look relatively stock at first glance. Unless you lift the hood (or bonnet for Bri-Bri).

GySgtFrank · 01-15-2014, 08:41 PM

frame & hoops by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

I got the other side in and welded up today with a bit of a struggle. Deleted the brake vacuum booster and incorporated the brake master cylinder mounting plate into the plate for the hoop. Far more compact mounting. I'll have to see how well the brakes work without it. This should make the frame rails pretty strong and get rid of any flex.

hades · 01-15-2014, 09:08 PM

Good luck man. That's a lot of work.

GySgtFrank · 01-15-2014, 09:41 PM

Thanks Jeff. It keeps me out of trouble, sort of.

chibikougan · 01-15-2014, 09:58 PM

Nice

djmtsu · 01-16-2014, 06:58 AM

Soooooo.....you gonna make DGRR this year?

Yikes!

GySgtFrank · 01-16-2014, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djmtsu

Soooooo.....you gonna make DGRR this year?

Yikes!

I think so. Despite how it looks, I'm actually getting pretty close to buttoning it up to reinstall everything.

GySgtFrank · 01-19-2014, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Pics or I don't believe you

lower frame rail by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

The lower rail is what the cradle will bolt to. Should have the rail on the other side done tonight or tomorrow.

chibikougan · 01-19-2014, 07:39 PM

Nice!

12-15-2013, 09:01 PM	#1
GySgtFrank Professional Stick Poker Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Stafford, Ks. Posts: 1,012 Rep Power: 16	shock tower rough by GySgtFrank, on Flickr OK, go ahead and laugh. The passenger side is roughed in and back on the ground. Had to modify the original struts to take a heim joint at the bottom and weld on a perch to accept the coil over spring. Did some clearancing on the lower arm and added tabs to mount the shock as far out on the arm as possible. Then the real fun began trying to get the upper plate at the right height and angles so that nothing binds as the wheel moves, keep it within the bounds of ride height adjustment, and make sure the shock doesn't stick through the hood (the last was harder than it sounds). Also modified the coil over tube and went to a 275 pound 12" tall spring. I need to get some more measurements and do some adjusting now that it's on the ground. Then close and clean it up. Not looking forward to doing the other side, but it should go a bit faster now that I have some idea of what the he** I'm doing. __________________ 1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585

01-11-2014, 06:44 PM	#3
GySgtFrank Professional Stick Poker Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Stafford, Ks. Posts: 1,012 Rep Power: 16	Just to let y'all know I'm still at it. Now that I trial fitted both sides, found that my top mounts were about 1 1/2 inches too far back. I was unable to move them far enough even with the adjustment I built in. Put in new upper A arm mounts and pulled everything back apart to put in the actual bracing and shock/spring mounts. Starting to get it ground down and cleaned up. Slow, but getting there. __________________ 1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585

01-15-2014, 08:41 PM	#8
GySgtFrank Professional Stick Poker Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Stafford, Ks. Posts: 1,012 Rep Power: 16	frame & hoops by GySgtFrank, on Flickr I got the other side in and welded up today with a bit of a struggle. Deleted the brake vacuum booster and incorporated the brake master cylinder mounting plate into the plate for the hoop. Far more compact mounting. I'll have to see how well the brakes work without it. This should make the frame rails pretty strong and get rid of any flex. __________________ 1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585

01-15-2014, 09:08 PM	#9
hades Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Freedom Land Posts: 316 Rep Power: 18	Good luck man. That's a lot of work. __________________ This is going to tear

01-15-2014, 09:41 PM	#10
GySgtFrank Professional Stick Poker Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Stafford, Ks. Posts: 1,012 Rep Power: 16	Thanks Jeff. It keeps me out of trouble, sort of. __________________ 1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585

01-11-2014, 07:01 PM	#4
JL1RX7 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Front Royal, VA Posts: 487 Rep Power: 18	Gunny How much original stuff is left? Lots of hard work is see.

01-11-2014, 07:09 PM	#6
JL1RX7 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Front Royal, VA Posts: 487 Rep Power: 18	Oh and the VIN plate on the firewall. Don't forget that!

01-16-2014, 06:58 AM	#12
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 22	Soooooo.....you gonna make DGRR this year? Yikes! __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5