Plain Jane OEM nothing to see here rebuild - Page 2

RotorDad · 10-10-2010, 11:32 PM

Pulled from Mazdatrix who actually recommend the Renesis stationary gears. They are already hardend.
"If using the RX8 rear gear in an earlier 13b engine, you must add sealant where the rear gear o-ring WOULD be. There is no groove to hold the o-ring because the Renesis engine mounts the o-ring in the side housing rather than on the gear. We recommend using Hylomar, but a THIN layer of silicone sealant will also suffice."
The 3 window bearing IMO opinion is just as good as the REW multi window.

JustJeff · 10-11-2010, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RotorDad

Pulled from Mazdatrix who actually recommend the Renesis stationary gears. They are already hardend.
"If using the RX8 rear gear in an earlier 13b engine, you must add sealant where the rear gear o-ring WOULD be. There is no groove to hold the o-ring because the Renesis engine mounts the o-ring in the side housing rather than on the gear. We recommend using Hylomar, but a THIN layer of silicone sealant will also suffice."
The 3 window bearing IMO opinion is just as good as the REW multi window.

Thanks Dad, I remember having read that but those thoughts fell on the backburner. Thanks for bringing that up. I believe it was on Nopistons I read people using RX8 gears.

RotorDad · 10-11-2010, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JustJeff

Thanks Dad, I remember having read that but those thoughts fell on the backburner. Thanks for bringing that up. I believe it was on Nopistons I read people using RX8 gears.

I might actually use them on my next build. It was still fresh in my mind. LOL

NoDOHC · 10-11-2010, 11:55 PM

You call yourself the Newbie, but you have done more than most people on this forum.

Congrats to you.

That is a nice ride / project.

JustJeff · 10-12-2010, 01:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RotorDad

I might actually use them on my next build. It was still fresh in my mind. LOL

I'm curious, did you come across the same info about needing to shave the 13B eccentric shaft to use with RX8 gears?

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoDOHC

You call yourself the Newbie, but you have done more than most people on this forum.

Congrats to you.

That is a nice ride / project.

Thanks man, much appreciated. I've been around rotaries for some time. My father bought an FB new when I was barely young enough to remember. From the early 80s on my father and I have owned 5 RX's between us. Four of those 5 have been verts.

This is my first rebuild so I'm trying to be as thorough as possible on the whole thing. I have a disturbing photo gallery of the engine removal and teardown. I bagged and tagged every nut and bolt. I measured step wear, warping and such on the irons.

What I need to decide is what direction the body of the car is going to go. I need to decide whether to buy my father's black vert and put my drivetrain in it or keep my red vert. I'm a softy for black verts and it's kind of a toss up over which work is most worth the effort. Swapping rear subframes so my LSD will be on the black vert...as well as my stereo system, alarm, etc...or keep the red vert and eventaully painting it black.

JustJeff · 10-25-2010, 04:20 PM

Quick update...the rebuild is moving forward. I want to get as much done as possible before cold weather hits.

I bought a replacement housing, it's on it's way to me. Low mile JDM housing that from the pics look to be in as good shape as my good housing.

Now I have to decide on RA seals or Atkins. I've got an overview of all the available seals that covers all the major suppliers. I'd love to hear feedback from people using RA, Atkins or even Goopy. Even better advice would be from people who used the seals then toredown the engine.

My concern with RA is about chatter marks and the reputation I've heard from them wearing the housings. Has anyone used them and torn down the engine they were in?

JustJeff · 11-07-2010, 08:39 PM

Another update

The housing I bought was junk so I'm working out a refund. The seller is working with me, but I'm more than a little pissed that his description was not close to reality. What really worries me is that this thing would be put up for sale and that someone might use it.

I might have a deal in the works for a housing from Japan. The pics look like it's in as good of shape as my good housing.

Now that I have more down time waiting I"m thinking of repainting my irons. While the black duracell theme was kinda fun at first I can see it growing on me...in a bad way. I'm thinking of simply doing an aluminum, I brought home some VHT "Titanium Blue Silver" but I may do simple aluminum. At least with aluminum when it gets chipped and starts flaking it won't show up as much.

One question about repainting. Can I simply cover the clear coat with self-etching primer or should I rough up the paint surface before? For repainting I'm going to do like the first color. I'll prime, paint and clear coat.

I'll get some pics of the good internal engine parts soon.

JustJeff · 11-08-2010, 01:07 PM

Got my answer about self-etching primer from a friend who does body work. etching primer is designed to bond to bare metal, not paint. Guess I have to repaint the hard way...

JustJeff · 11-09-2010, 12:52 AM

Here is my good housing

JustJeff · 11-09-2010, 12:54 AM

Question about my flywheel...will resurfacing my flywheel remove that? How much of an issue is that going to be?

JustJeff · 11-11-2010, 10:52 PM

[QUOTE=JustJeff;131896]Question about my flywheel...will resurfacing my flywheel remove that? How much of an issue is that going to be?

Talked to a machine shop, it's not ideal obviously but the crack is only on the surface. I'll probably be using it...after resurfacing, unless I find a good deal on a flywheel.

JustJeff · 11-09-2010, 01:00 AM

I bought this rotor and after cleaning it found this...at first I didn't notice it. Can I use this rotor? What about flipping it around for the other housing so that the momentum of the engine will always be pushing the seal away from that damaged area?

This is my other rotor, the one I damaged when I detonated...it almost seems to be in better shape than the one I bought

GoopyPerformance · 12-06-2010, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JustJeff

I bought this rotor and after cleaning it found this...at first I didn't notice it. Can I use this rotor? What about flipping it around for the other housing so that the momentum of the engine will always be pushing the seal away from that damaged area?

Those rotors are still very much usable. If you guage the Clearance between the apex seal slot and apex and would like it tighter we offer a oversize apex seals. Its still categorized as a 2MM seal but .003 thicker to make up for high millage slop or damaged rotor edges.
http://www.goopyperformance.com/
http://wljphotography.com/index.html

JustJeff · 12-07-2010, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoopyPerformance

Those rotors are still very much usable. If you guage the Clearance between the apex seal slot and apex and would like it tighter we offer a oversize apex seals. Its still categorized as a 2MM seal but .003 thicker to make up for high millage slop or damaged rotor edges.
http://www.goopyperformance.com/
http://wljphotography.com/index.html

I sent it back to the seller, he inspected it and is sending me another. It's a moot point now, but I appreciate the advice.

Replacement rotor should be here in a few days. Replacement housing is already here. I've got it cleaned up and will slap some paint on it tonight or tomorrow. Matter of fact I'll post some pics of the housing.

JustJeff · 11-21-2010, 07:31 PM

So I decided to repaint my front cover. Was originally going to scuff up the paint some, reprime, paint, clearcoat. Got annoyed with all the nooks and crannies I was having a hard time reaching. So I bought some airplane paint remover and have spent the last week trying to get the gook out of nooks and crannies. Never again will I do that!!

I've officially given up and will be taking it to get it sandblasted. Wish I had simply stuck to scuffing up the paint. I doubt missing the nooks and crannies would have mattered. But the paint partially pulled off the metal will cause problems.

10-10-2010, 11:32 PM	#1
RotorDad Big Ugly Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Fredericksburg, Va Posts: 591 Rep Power: 17	Pulled from Mazdatrix who actually recommend the Renesis stationary gears. They are already hardend. "If using the RX8 rear gear in an earlier 13b engine, you must add sealant where the rear gear o-ring WOULD be. There is no groove to hold the o-ring because the Renesis engine mounts the o-ring in the side housing rather than on the gear. We recommend using Hylomar, but a THIN layer of silicone sealant will also suffice." The 3 window bearing IMO opinion is just as good as the REW multi window. __________________ *Boosted Big Body On 335's* PS3 ID: Rotordad 1986 Mazda RX7 GXL - Street ported 13BT, Haltech, 62mm, ect. 2006 MazdaSpeed 6 - Eagle, Wiseco, Cobb, ect.

10-11-2010, 11:55 PM	#4
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	You call yourself the Newbie, but you have done more than most people on this forum. Congrats to you. That is a nice ride / project. __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)

10-25-2010, 04:20 PM	#6
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 505 Rep Power: 18	Quick update...the rebuild is moving forward. I want to get as much done as possible before cold weather hits. I bought a replacement housing, it's on it's way to me. Low mile JDM housing that from the pics look to be in as good shape as my good housing. Now I have to decide on RA seals or Atkins. I've got an overview of all the available seals that covers all the major suppliers. I'd love to hear feedback from people using RA, Atkins or even Goopy. Even better advice would be from people who used the seals then toredown the engine. My concern with RA is about chatter marks and the reputation I've heard from them wearing the housings. Has anyone used them and torn down the engine they were in?

11-07-2010, 08:39 PM	#7
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 505 Rep Power: 18	Another update The housing I bought was junk so I'm working out a refund. The seller is working with me, but I'm more than a little pissed that his description was not close to reality. What really worries me is that this thing would be put up for sale and that someone might use it. I might have a deal in the works for a housing from Japan. The pics look like it's in as good of shape as my good housing. Now that I have more down time waiting I"m thinking of repainting my irons. While the black duracell theme was kinda fun at first I can see it growing on me...in a bad way. I'm thinking of simply doing an aluminum, I brought home some VHT "Titanium Blue Silver" but I may do simple aluminum. At least with aluminum when it gets chipped and starts flaking it won't show up as much. One question about repainting. Can I simply cover the clear coat with self-etching primer or should I rough up the paint surface before? For repainting I'm going to do like the first color. I'll prime, paint and clear coat. I'll get some pics of the good internal engine parts soon.

11-08-2010, 01:07 PM	#8
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 505 Rep Power: 18	Got my answer about self-etching primer from a friend who does body work. etching primer is designed to bond to bare metal, not paint. Guess I have to repaint the hard way...

11-09-2010, 12:52 AM	#9
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 505 Rep Power: 18	Here is my good housing

11-09-2010, 12:54 AM	#10
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 505 Rep Power: 18	Question about my flywheel...will resurfacing my flywheel remove that? How much of an issue is that going to be?

11-11-2010, 10:52 PM	#11
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 505 Rep Power: 18	[QUOTE=JustJeff;131896]Question about my flywheel...will resurfacing my flywheel remove that? How much of an issue is that going to be? Talked to a machine shop, it's not ideal obviously but the crack is only on the surface. I'll probably be using it...after resurfacing, unless I find a good deal on a flywheel.

11-09-2010, 01:00 AM	#12
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 505 Rep Power: 18	I bought this rotor and after cleaning it found this...at first I didn't notice it. Can I use this rotor? What about flipping it around for the other housing so that the momentum of the engine will always be pushing the seal away from that damaged area? This is my other rotor, the one I damaged when I detonated...it almost seems to be in better shape than the one I bought

11-21-2010, 07:31 PM	#15
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 505 Rep Power: 18	So I decided to repaint my front cover. Was originally going to scuff up the paint some, reprime, paint, clearcoat. Got annoyed with all the nooks and crannies I was having a hard time reaching. So I bought some airplane paint remover and have spent the last week trying to get the gook out of nooks and crannies. Never again will I do that!! I've officially given up and will be taking it to get it sandblasted. Wish I had simply stuck to scuffing up the paint. I doubt missing the nooks and crannies would have mattered. But the paint partially pulled off the metal will cause problems.