93 BB base FD build-up - Page 6

GoodfellaFD3S · 05-09-2008, 11:27 PM

Dan, crush washer on the e-shaft bolt?

Chadwick · 05-10-2008, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S

Dan, crush washer on the e-shaft bolt?

Yeah, I'm not a big fan of RTV, if Mazda would of design the crush washer correctly it would be in my opinion the best solution. Unfortunatly they never made it right and just eliminanted after 93. In the future I will find one that is a better fit than the OEM or have some made.

Dan

Chadwick · 05-11-2008, 11:14 PM

Added a bit at the end of the second post.

Dan

Brent · 05-12-2008, 09:50 AM

Get that thing painted Dan... before Kevin gets on your case... haha! Congrats on the win yesterday. You have a national next week, right? I'm very anxious to hear your feedback on the carputer and see it in person.

Chadwick · 05-12-2008, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brent

Get that thing painted Dan... before Kevin gets on your case... haha! Congrats on the win yesterday. You have a national next week, right? I'm very anxious to hear your feedback on the carputer and see it in person.

We have a ProSolo next weekend in Atlanta and then a Tour the week after that.

I feel pretty good about the way she was handling and running for her first event. She is detuned about 110hp off her target hp and I still managed to be the forth fastest car for the event. I really notice the lack of power in a few areas, but I think my biggest problem was my driving. I haven't raced since last November and that was in a totaling different car.

One thing I’m happy to report is the fuel starvation cover works!!! I had her down to less than a ¼ tank without fuel starvation. The course had two fairly fast left hand sweepers that would have starved her at ¾ a tank before. When we install the cover I notice that one of the internal tank baffles has detached itself so I’m going to take the opportunity to upgrade to a 95 tank.

Also my airpump delete pulley held up to its first real test so I’m pretty happy about that.

We still haven’t installed the 4.77 or Kaaz which I think will really make her come alive.

We are going to install the boost controller and pre control pill this week and crank up the boost to have her ready for the ProSolo. The 4.77 and Kaaz may go in the following week.

fire85gslse · 05-12-2008, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brent

Congrats on the win yesterday.

What? Dan, why were you not spending time with your mom on mothers day?
Keep me in the loop when running out at the speedway.
Chad

Chadwick · 05-12-2008, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fire85gslse

What? Dan, why were you not spending time with your mom on mothers day?
Keep me in the loop when running out at the speedway.
Chad

My mom is in Florida.

Local schedule is at http://www.trscca.org

Dan

orion84gsl · 05-17-2008, 02:23 PM

Awesome build. You FD guys make me jealous. One thing makes me curious though. Isn't that F-15 sitting on your trunk a little big for Auto-X?

DJF · 05-30-2008, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by orion84gsl

Awesome build. You FD guys make me jealous. One thing makes me curious though. Isn't that F-15 sitting on your trunk a little big for Auto-X?

Dan could probably answer this better but I'm going to take a guess and say that the design of that wing is to try and trap as much air as possible at low autocross speeds. The wings on road course cars aren't as extreme and I would think because in addition to downforce at high speeds, they have to eliminate drag as well. Andy and Eric use a similiar looking wing on their Solo2 FDs as well.

sbrian2 · 05-30-2008, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJF

Dan could probably answer this better but I'm going to take a guess and say that the design of that wing is to try and trap as much air as possible at low autocross speeds. The wings on road course cars aren't as extreme and I would think because in addition to downforce at high speeds, they have to eliminate drag as well. Andy and Eric use a similiar looking wing on their Solo2 FDs as well.

Ding, ding, ding. We have a winner folks!

Chadwick · 09-03-2008, 11:31 AM

Thought I would spend a few minutes updating the build thread with a race report. I’ve also made a few changes to the car which I’ll update below.

Since my last post I have attended four National events and ran three local events. On the National level I took first in the National tour in Peru and Atlanta and finished 4th in both Pro-Solo events in Atlanta and Toledo. With the car still detuned for break in it really showed in the ProSolo’s with its drag race start. I was owned to the first turn in almost every start. The last day in Toledo we turned up the boost a tad and it made a big difference in 60 ft times and I was beating the other cars to the first turn. I had a run on one side of the course on the second day that equaled the fastest run in class, but could not back it up on the other side of the course.

Even though I was having success with winning the tours I was not happy with my times when compared to the other classes and the fastest drivers at the events. When we got back from Toledo I pulled the Koni shocks and sent them off to ProParts to be re-valved for stiffer spring rates. When we examined them off the car it was clear that the right front was blown and one of the rears seemed soft when compared to the other. Guy Ankeny confirmed this on the shock dyno when he tested them before the rebuild. The right front was indeed shot and the one rear was at 30% of what it should have been.

The shocks were originally setup to handle 600lbs front springs and 300lbs rears. I was shooting for 900lbs front and 600 rear but they were not able to be valved that high. We settled for 800lbs front and 400lbs rear on Guy’s recommendation.

We got the shocks and new springs back from ProParts and I also received the Nagisa Auto Upper Control arms I order from RHDJapan so we install the new parts and put her on the rack for a corner balance and alignment.

Current alignment:
-3 degrees camber front
5 degrees caster
.125 toe out front

-2.5 degrees camber rear
.125 toe in rear

The control arms allow me to greatly increase the amount of camber I can run up front and based on Erik Strelnieks suggestion I went with 3 degrees negative in the front and 2.5 negative in the rear. We were also able to lower the car more with the stiffer springs.

The first event with the new setup was let’s say…. interesting. The traveling circus (that’s what we call ourselves) headed down to Huntsville for their local autocross. It was a nice lot with a pretty good course setup that would allow me to push the car a bit. Right from the start I notice a huge difference in the handling. She was super crisp and responsive. Lateral grip was outstanding and she transitioned like a dream…. All the way up until the point where the back end passed the front

. On two of the five runs I had this issue during high speed, full throttle transitions, no warning, no change in the feel of the car just a super abrupt snap spin. Turns out that we lowered the car a tad too much and with the extra force of the wing at speed the rear tires would make contact with the wheel wells during high-speed transitions.

When we got back to the shop we raise the car about ½ in. which has solved the problem. At the next local event I set FTD (Fast time of the Day) by .5 of a second, and then I traveled to Chattanooga and set FTD there by 2.5 seconds the following weekend.

So far I am pretty happy with the car setup, we are installing the 4.77 ring and pinion and Kaaz LSD right now so that I can get a few events under my belt with it before the National Championships in Topeka. I’m doing two events this weekend so I’ll let you know how it goes.

Since the original build thread I have pulled the Corbeau FX1 and double locking sliders and replaced it with a Forza and two single locking rails. The FX1 was actually too big in race conditions as I felt I was sliding all over the car. The double locking slider broke twice and although Corbeau was nice enough to keep replacing, the third time they suggested going with two single lock sliders which has solved the problem.

I have also pulled the old Jacob’s ProStreet ignition amplifier and replaced it with an AEM twin fire, Magnecor 10mm race plug wires and new coils. Ari at Rotary Performance was nice enough to dig through his personal stock and send me a new Jacob’s twin poll coil for the leading plugs and I purchased two Jacob’s C-4 coils for the trailing. AFR’s went up almost a full digit with the new ignition so I had to do some retuning. The rise in AFR’s tells me the new ignition setup is doing a better job.

I have to comment on a couple of parts that have impressed the hell out of me. The Widefoot swaybar mount and the Hyperion fuel surge cover. Both of these products work like a charm and are well worth the money spent.

The Widefoot mount just works; plan and simple, I no longer worry about snapping off the swaybar mounts. With the fuel surge cover I have not found the lower limit of the fuel I can run without starving. So far I have ran just bellow ¼ of a tank and still no starvation.

jkstill · 09-03-2008, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chadwick

Since the original build thread I have pulled the Corbeau FX1 and double locking sliders and replaced it with a Forza and two single locking rails. The FX1 was actually too big in race conditions as I felt I was sliding all over the car. The double locking slider broke twice and although Corbeau was nice enough to keep replacing, the third time they suggested going with two single lock sliders which has solved the problem.

As I have just installed 2 FX1's with double locking sliders, I am interested in that bit.

The first double locker quit working before I got the seat installed. I've since replaced the drivers side sliders, driven the car several times and 1 autox, no issues so far.

Any clues as to what the problem is with the double locking sliders?

Maybe I will be contacting SoloRacer.com about 4 single lock sliders...

sbrian2 · 05-21-2008, 10:43 AM

I ran across a shot from last weekend's Pro Solo. Couldn't find any action shots unfortunately.

Garfinkles Motor Works · 05-22-2008, 04:59 AM

When I remove the front bolt ,I put a pry bar on the fly wheel and chain it pushing foward ,remove the bolt .After tighting the bolt back you can check the step measurement between the hub and shaft to see if the bearing is in place ( 2.44 mm ) .

Chadwick · 05-26-2008, 09:20 AM

Video from the Atlanta National tour:

http://www.tweakit.com/rx7/chadwick_atlanta.wmv

Some pictures of her in action:

Photo's courtesy of Chris Hammond from SCCAforums.com

05-11-2008, 11:14 PM	#3
Chadwick Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Smyrna, TN, USA Posts: 239 Rep Power: 18	Added a bit at the end of the second post. Dan __________________ 93 RX7 BB (Race Car) 93 RX7 SSM (Soon to be IBM and a daily driver) 05 Silverado Z71 08 Mini Cooper 80 LS RX7 (for sale)

05-12-2008, 09:50 AM	#4
Brent Sua Sponte Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Killeen, TX Posts: 839 Rep Power: 18	Get that thing painted Dan... before Kevin gets on your case... haha! Congrats on the win yesterday. You have a national next week, right? I'm very anxious to hear your feedback on the carputer and see it in person. __________________ Road Atlanta August 2011 NASA TT 1:33 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFY00PAK_Ps Traqmate's video of my car from the 2011 UTCC at VIR http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Zcn6...layer_embedded Video of Yellow LS1 FD at NASA TT at VIR http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6k0lJkcwrM

09-03-2008, 11:31 AM	#11
Chadwick Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Smyrna, TN, USA Posts: 239 Rep Power: 18	Race report, what worked, what didn’t Thought I would spend a few minutes updating the build thread with a race report. I’ve also made a few changes to the car which I’ll update below. Since my last post I have attended four National events and ran three local events. On the National level I took first in the National tour in Peru and Atlanta and finished 4th in both Pro-Solo events in Atlanta and Toledo. With the car still detuned for break in it really showed in the ProSolo’s with its drag race start. I was owned to the first turn in almost every start. The last day in Toledo we turned up the boost a tad and it made a big difference in 60 ft times and I was beating the other cars to the first turn. I had a run on one side of the course on the second day that equaled the fastest run in class, but could not back it up on the other side of the course. Even though I was having success with winning the tours I was not happy with my times when compared to the other classes and the fastest drivers at the events. When we got back from Toledo I pulled the Koni shocks and sent them off to ProParts to be re-valved for stiffer spring rates. When we examined them off the car it was clear that the right front was blown and one of the rears seemed soft when compared to the other. Guy Ankeny confirmed this on the shock dyno when he tested them before the rebuild. The right front was indeed shot and the one rear was at 30% of what it should have been. The shocks were originally setup to handle 600lbs front springs and 300lbs rears. I was shooting for 900lbs front and 600 rear but they were not able to be valved that high. We settled for 800lbs front and 400lbs rear on Guy’s recommendation. We got the shocks and new springs back from ProParts and I also received the Nagisa Auto Upper Control arms I order from RHDJapan so we install the new parts and put her on the rack for a corner balance and alignment. Current alignment: -3 degrees camber front 5 degrees caster .125 toe out front -2.5 degrees camber rear .125 toe in rear The control arms allow me to greatly increase the amount of camber I can run up front and based on Erik Strelnieks suggestion I went with 3 degrees negative in the front and 2.5 negative in the rear. We were also able to lower the car more with the stiffer springs. The first event with the new setup was let’s say…. interesting. The traveling circus (that’s what we call ourselves) headed down to Huntsville for their local autocross. It was a nice lot with a pretty good course setup that would allow me to push the car a bit. Right from the start I notice a huge difference in the handling. She was super crisp and responsive. Lateral grip was outstanding and she transitioned like a dream…. All the way up until the point where the back end passed the front . On two of the five runs I had this issue during high speed, full throttle transitions, no warning, no change in the feel of the car just a super abrupt snap spin. Turns out that we lowered the car a tad too much and with the extra force of the wing at speed the rear tires would make contact with the wheel wells during high-speed transitions. When we got back to the shop we raise the car about ½ in. which has solved the problem. At the next local event I set FTD (Fast time of the Day) by .5 of a second, and then I traveled to Chattanooga and set FTD there by 2.5 seconds the following weekend. So far I am pretty happy with the car setup, we are installing the 4.77 ring and pinion and Kaaz LSD right now so that I can get a few events under my belt with it before the National Championships in Topeka. I’m doing two events this weekend so I’ll let you know how it goes. Since the original build thread I have pulled the Corbeau FX1 and double locking sliders and replaced it with a Forza and two single locking rails. The FX1 was actually too big in race conditions as I felt I was sliding all over the car. The double locking slider broke twice and although Corbeau was nice enough to keep replacing, the third time they suggested going with two single lock sliders which has solved the problem. I have also pulled the old Jacob’s ProStreet ignition amplifier and replaced it with an AEM twin fire, Magnecor 10mm race plug wires and new coils. Ari at Rotary Performance was nice enough to dig through his personal stock and send me a new Jacob’s twin poll coil for the leading plugs and I purchased two Jacob’s C-4 coils for the trailing. AFR’s went up almost a full digit with the new ignition so I had to do some retuning. The rise in AFR’s tells me the new ignition setup is doing a better job. I have to comment on a couple of parts that have impressed the hell out of me. The Widefoot swaybar mount and the Hyperion fuel surge cover. Both of these products work like a charm and are well worth the money spent. The Widefoot mount just works; plan and simple, I no longer worry about snapping off the swaybar mounts. With the fuel surge cover I have not found the lower limit of the fuel I can run without starving. So far I have ran just bellow ¼ of a tank and still no starvation. __________________ 93 RX7 BB (Race Car) 93 RX7 SSM (Soon to be IBM and a daily driver) 05 Silverado Z71 08 Mini Cooper 80 LS RX7 (for sale) Last edited by Chadwick; 09-03-2008 at 01:46 PM.

05-21-2008, 10:43 AM	#13
sbrian2 Rotary Wannabee Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: M'boro TN Posts: 50 Rep Power: 18	I ran across a shot from last weekend's Pro Solo. Couldn't find any action shots unfortunately. __________________ -Brian '95 Mazda Miata R package '90 Mazda Miata turbo '06 Chevrolet Trailblazer SS '01 BMW 325Ci '91 Honda CRX hf

05-26-2008, 09:20 AM	#15
Chadwick Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Smyrna, TN, USA Posts: 239 Rep Power: 18	Video from the Atlanta National tour: http://www.tweakit.com/rx7/chadwick_atlanta.wmv Some pictures of her in action: Photo's courtesy of Chris Hammond from SCCAforums.com __________________ 93 RX7 BB (Race Car) 93 RX7 SSM (Soon to be IBM and a daily driver) 05 Silverado Z71 08 Mini Cooper 80 LS RX7 (for sale) Last edited by Chadwick; 05-26-2008 at 09:33 AM.

05-09-2008, 11:27 PM	#1
GoodfellaFD3S Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 40 Rep Power: 0	Dan, crush washer on the e-shaft bolt?

05-17-2008, 02:23 PM	#8
orion84gsl Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 167 Rep Power: 18	Awesome build. You FD guys make me jealous. One thing makes me curious though. Isn't that F-15 sitting on your trunk a little big for Auto-X?

05-22-2008, 04:59 AM	#14
Garfinkles Motor Works RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 535 Rep Power: 18	When I remove the front bolt ,I put a pry bar on the fly wheel and chain it pushing foward ,remove the bolt .After tighting the bolt back you can check the step measurement between the hub and shaft to see if the bearing is in place ( 2.44 mm ) .