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RX-7 1st Gen Specific (1979-85) RX-7 1979-85 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

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Old 08-14-2008, 05:59 PM   #1
warwickben
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Default 1980 dizzy DLIDFIS help please.Jeff20b way.

first i want to thank jeff20b for his great web site.

ill do some thing in return for helping me.
now what i need help on.
i own a 1980 sa and i plan to go DLIDFIS as jeff20b's explains.
i want to cut the wires close to the dizzy and use quick connects so i could go back to stock if a igniter fails on me.
could some one take a picture of a 80's dizzy and tell me which wires are for what. that way i can follow jeffs guide. allso which wire is for the tack and where should i have it wired in.

iam just stressed out about this because i dont want to destroy my car. my buddy who went to uti for this stuff is going to help but he needed. to know what 2 wires are for leading and what two wires are for trailing and where is the tack wire and where he should wire it up.

hes been over at the evil page searching for the last few weeks and hasnt had any luck. i posted this same thing there but plan to be just flamed. i know you guys are so much nicer so i figured id try here first.


i have every thing needed, 3 blaster 2 coils(free o yeah) rotor shape plate with 3 holes cut in it to hold the coils. the plate for the igniter's.wire and quick connects.






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Old 08-15-2008, 11:06 AM   #2
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Don't cut anything. That's all the advice I can give you because I've NEVER worked on the ignition system of a 1st gen, much less ever worked with an '80 distributor.
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Old 08-15-2008, 12:55 PM   #3
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well jeff should i just unhook the igniter's and wire it from there?
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Old 08-16-2008, 11:02 PM   #4
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Sure. Keep the long group of wires intact.

Looks like the coils are arcing from reading your post on the other forum. If you're still using stock style NGK wires, you should be able to push the leading wires fully into the coil so they seat all the way in and stop arcing. The boot should seperate from the wire (it's usually glued but can be pulled apart). Slide the boot up the wire so you have plenty of length to insert the metal terminal as deep into the coil receptical as it will go. Then slide the boot down over the outer tower until snug. This prevents all arcing in my experience doing older rotories with points conversions and previously piston powered engine conversions (like the Datsun 510 I recently posted on the other forum).

Again I have never actually done a DLIDFIS upgrade in a 1st gen but the concept is the same. The coils are just further from the engine and the wiring is a little different.

One more thing. Like the aussie guy mentioned, the '80 dizzies use reverse polarity so once you solve the arcing problem, check things with a timing light. If timing seems a bit off, try reversing the red and green wires. Hey, this worked for me on an S5 T2 engine with an SC in my friend's REPU with GM HEIs and an '81-'85 dizzy. Your '80 dizzy should respond in a similar way if things are a little off.

Last edited by Jeff20B; 08-16-2008 at 11:05 PM..
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Old 08-17-2008, 08:39 AM   #5
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iam going to the store to get Dielectric grease. see if that helps. the car runs but wount idle. if the grease stops the arcing and it wount idle then ill switch the wires.
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Old 08-17-2008, 09:42 AM   #6
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hey jeff, just went to the store greased the plugs, tried starting the car. wount idle.

then i swaped (sp?) the red wire to green, green to red. now my rx7 lives hahahahhahaha.
starts easer, and idles better.
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Old 08-17-2008, 12:54 PM   #7
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That's good. Does it still arc?
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Old 08-17-2008, 02:13 PM   #8
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no more arcing went to get gas and to drive around with no problem.

a ex ran over to me right before i went to leave shell. i took my foot off the clutch in first, with out my foot on the gas. it was idling at under 1k. guess what my car didn't stall. it started moving. that never happen before.

i don't know if its just me but my car sounds healthier. hopping to get pics taken today of my set up. i didn't have to drill any holes or cut any stock brackets.
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