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Old 06-11-2008, 07:35 PM   #1
sumdeus
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Default 5w-20

So Mazda says to use 5W-20, but I have heard people grumbling about that citing stuff like premature engine wear. I am a bit confused overall.

5W-20, yay or nay?






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Old 06-11-2008, 08:24 PM   #2
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The only reason Mazda recommends 5w-20 is solely because of emissions standards and fuel economy. I use 5w-40 during the summer months along with 6oz of 2-stroke oil in my fuel and have never had a problem with this engine. My motor runs extremely strong and with the numbers from my last compression check I can back up my claims. I have had this motor for just over 26k miles and have run premix and thicker oil in the summer and 5w-20 in the winter and not had one problem.

But really, there has been debate on the oil weight ever the 8 was introduced...everybody has an opinion on the subject.
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Old 06-12-2008, 07:05 AM   #3
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This is one of the best articles discussing oil temperatures, viscosity and weight.
Cliff Notes: We need flow not thick viscosity.
Oil temp range determines pressure and viscosity.
Cold start up is toughest on wear.
Our filters by-pass on cold start up more with high viscosity.

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136052


http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136052
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Old 10-02-2008, 01:09 PM   #4
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5-30 all year round
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Old 10-02-2008, 01:36 PM   #5
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Depending on the oil u use if u use

ELF/Total oil they recomend 5w30 SXR in ALL rotary engines (when using the OMP)

again the above is correct the 5w20 is recomended for emissions purposes
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Old 10-02-2008, 06:18 PM   #6
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Where do you find ELF oil here in the states?
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Old 10-02-2008, 06:38 PM   #7
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I sell ELF oil.. well now total


http://rotarycarclub.com/showthread.php?t=3317
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Old 10-03-2008, 04:17 AM   #8
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I use the 10w50 in my rotary
the reason why els says to use the 5w30 is because it has been specially formulated with the rotary engine in mind to leave less ash then any other oil if u are using the omp still.

of course if u are premixing them I would recommend the 10w50
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Old 10-03-2008, 01:01 PM   #9
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ya losting i ver went is 10w30 in winter when 20w50 got too thick in new jersey.
but im with spooled once my engine is done being broken in ima switch over to total syntec. ive been using castrol 10w30 for breakin
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Old 10-03-2008, 01:03 PM   #10
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yeah I use 10w50 only because my car is never driven in the cold and I premix (no omp)
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Old 10-06-2008, 09:56 PM   #11
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My car has had 5w20 since new. I also run premix though. Personally, I use 10w30 in all my other RX vehicles and have even run 20w50 from time to time in the FBs. Longevity is in the premix IMHO not the oil. If Mazda wants 5w20, then thats what my 8 gets, but I'll never trust their OMP ratios from the factory... besides, the 8 has 100K mile warranty now,lol...
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Old 10-07-2008, 05:11 AM   #12
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Now I am deff on the side that 5w20 is a thin weight oil HOWEVER looking at those pictures I mean you and I both know there is more to the story then just thin weight oil..

5-20 may be a thin weight but it still has lube properties I really think there is more to the engine above them a thin weight oil.. I mean looking at the score marks that looks like starvation at its finest.

not only starvations but possible water contamination.

and I also agree I dont trust a us reman engine over the original thing any day.
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Old 10-07-2008, 02:58 PM   #13
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nothing... my point is after looking at those pictures I think the owner was lieing.. (I mean its not un heard of for people to lie) I'm no pro we all know that but I know enough about wear and IMO those pictures come off to look like pictures that starved for oil.. maybe not always but many times..

saying "well I only drove about 200 miles with it low" is like saying well I only drove it DRY for 50 miles.. One persons word can be stretched to anything they want to say..

Again I am not taking the side of 5w20 I'm just thinking there is more to this then JUST oil.. because 5w20 or 20w50 you still have protection..and remember using heavier oil can actually put more abuse on an engine because it takes more force to turn the oil.

but again who really knows I am just confident that there is more to those pictures then oil weight.

look at the heat marks.. anything with oil in it (oil is a lubricant, cooling) will prolong any wear. those marks tell me that that part of the engine did not have sufficient lubrication.. and that has nothing to do with oil weight.
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Old 10-07-2008, 06:05 PM   #14
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Kevin, I appreciate you as a builder by all means and I'm nowhere near as an expert as you, but that owner is lieing. No way did running 5w20 cause that, there is definitely more to that story.

I took apart a 44K renesis dealership serviced w /5w20 since new and it showed no signs at all of wear to that level. The engine I took down didnt even use premix and was boosted. (engine failed due to bad tune, not oil)


Also - on the reman side. True there were problems with many remans and mazda actually stepped up shutting down their largest reman facility and opening a new one here in VA actually where "the master" and his apprentice, the same guys who assemble them in japan and oversee everything came in and did a review to be sure the same procedures used in japan are now put to use in the US rebuild facilities. I have more faith in the newer remans than the ones they offered for FDs, etc.

That being said, i'd still rebuild my own, but if the dealership is paying for it, who cares.
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Old 10-08-2008, 05:13 AM   #15
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yeah if I got a reman from mazda in my rx8.. thats a tough call I would prolly just live with it but begin to build my own replacement..

as for the pics.. This will end up being a loose loose fr everyone.. nobody knows but with my experience in the auto industry my decision rides on an oiling issue, build issue (tolerances or clearnces not checked properly) NOT oil weight.
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