Front wheel hub

tweiss3 · 06-23-2014, 06:28 PM

So my passenger front wheel bearing is shot. It's pitted on the races in the hub, so I ordered a new inner and outer bearing plus the seal. The thing is I can't figure out how to get the old races out. The FSM seems to say you must replace the hub as well, but that just doesn't make sense.

Is there a good way to remove the inner races?

GySgtFrank · 06-23-2014, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tweiss3

So my passenger front wheel bearing is shot. It's pitted on the races in the hub, so I ordered a new inner and outer bearing plus the seal. The thing is I can't figure out how to get the old races out. The FSM seems to say you must replace the hub as well, but that just doesn't make sense.

Is there a good way to remove the inner races?

You have to grind a couple of small slots on the backside of the hub where the race seats, just enough to get a small punch on the back side of the race. Then, using the punch. work the race out of there. Re-assembly is straightforward, just drive the new races all the way down just like any other wheel bearing replacement.

tweiss3 · 06-23-2014, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

You have to grind a couple of small slots on the backside of the hub where the race seats, just enough to get a small punch on the back side of the race. Then, using the punch. work the race out of there. Re-assembly is straightforward, just drive the new races all the way down just like any other wheel bearing replacement.

So slot the aluminum between the two races, then us a punch? I suppose that makes sense. I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

GySgtFrank · 06-23-2014, 07:03 PM

Yep. As you found out Mazda meant for the entire hub to be replaced when the bearings went bad. Therefor they left no provision to remove the races. I love the engineering and thought that Mazda put into these cars, but this and a few other things, make me think they spent too much time with the Ford marketing group.

Pete_89T2 · 06-23-2014, 08:52 PM

Looks like you got the answer already, but here's a good FAQ on the procedures with pictures, courtesy of MazdaTrix...

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/frontbrg.htm

tweiss3 · 06-24-2014, 06:35 AM

Thanks, that mazdatrix makes me feel better, I was worried i'd make too big of a notch, but they ground that notch pretty large.

I don't understand why the bearings are sold with an inner race if the idea is to replace the entire hub, but I'm glad it's not too bad to figure out.

chibikougan · 06-24-2014, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tweiss3

Thanks, that mazdatrix makes me feel better, I was worried i'd make too big of a notch, but they ground that notch pretty large.

I don't understand why the bearings are sold with an inner race if the idea is to replace the entire hub, but I'm glad it's not too bad to figure out.

S5s have all sorts of fun must replace items. Engineered for making money.

Turbo II Rotor · 06-25-2014, 08:56 AM

Got a welder? Throw a bead around the inside of the race. This will shrink the race a little bit and you can usually flip the hub over and bang it on the bench and the race will fall out.

http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2...bearing-races/

Garfinkles Motor Works · 06-25-2014, 08:33 PM

I have done the welding method and the grind , hammer and drift method. I like the notch method because once the notch is made it is ready for the next set of bearings .

tweiss3 · 06-26-2014, 05:48 AM

I did the notch method last night. It worked out pretty well, but it definitely took more time than I initially anticipated.

Tanj! · 07-09-2014, 12:42 PM

Another option is to place the entire hub in the oven at 200*F for 10 to 15 minutes. The aluminum hub expands faster than the steel bearing race. You can then just flip the hub over and give it a good whack with a hammer and piece of wood. The race generally just falls right out. Sometimes a little more persuasion is needed.

My5ABaby · 07-10-2014, 03:53 PM

I took a torch to the hub and eventually the race just fell out since the hub expanded faster than the race. Similar to above, just more targeted heat.

***TitaniumTT*** · 07-10-2014, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tweiss3

I don't understand why the bearings are sold with an inner race if the idea is to replace the entire hub, but I'm glad it's not too bad to figure out.

Because bearings are generally generic, so that one bearing could fit a host of other things that have provisions for replacement races.

06-23-2014, 06:28 PM	#1
tweiss3 Mazda Lover Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Akron, Ohio iTrader: (0) Posts: 319 Rep Power: 15	Front wheel hub So my passenger front wheel bearing is shot. It's pitted on the races in the hub, so I ordered a new inner and outer bearing plus the seal. The thing is I can't figure out how to get the old races out. The FSM seems to say you must replace the hub as well, but that just doesn't make sense. Is there a good way to remove the inner races? __________________ 2004 Mazda6 V6 5-spd - still waiting on money for a motor 1991 Mazda RX7 NA 5-spd - my new DD with 145,000 miles

06-23-2014, 07:03 PM	#4
GySgtFrank Professional Stick Poker Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Stafford, Ks. iTrader: (0) Posts: 1,005 Rep Power: 15	Yep. As you found out Mazda meant for the entire hub to be replaced when the bearings went bad. Therefor they left no provision to remove the races. I love the engineering and thought that Mazda put into these cars, but this and a few other things, make me think they spent too much time with the Ford marketing group. __________________ 1979 SA22C (parts of one anyway) http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 1975 MG Midget (building) http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=18681 1988 N/A SE model FC, dead stock and less than 85k on the clock. This one actually runs, so I don't fuck with it.

06-24-2014, 06:35 AM	#6
tweiss3 Mazda Lover Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Akron, Ohio iTrader: (0) Posts: 319 Rep Power: 15	Thanks, that mazdatrix makes me feel better, I was worried i'd make too big of a notch, but they ground that notch pretty large. I don't understand why the bearings are sold with an inner race if the idea is to replace the entire hub, but I'm glad it's not too bad to figure out. __________________ 2004 Mazda6 V6 5-spd - still waiting on money for a motor 1991 Mazda RX7 NA 5-spd - my new DD with 145,000 miles

06-26-2014, 05:48 AM	#10
tweiss3 Mazda Lover Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Akron, Ohio iTrader: (0) Posts: 319 Rep Power: 15	I did the notch method last night. It worked out pretty well, but it definitely took more time than I initially anticipated. __________________ 2004 Mazda6 V6 5-spd - still waiting on money for a motor 1991 Mazda RX7 NA 5-spd - my new DD with 145,000 miles

07-10-2014, 03:53 PM	#12
My5ABaby Sigh..... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,377 Rep Power: 19	I took a torch to the hub and eventually the race just fell out since the hub expanded faster than the race. Similar to above, just more targeted heat. __________________ 1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."

06-23-2014, 08:52 PM	#5
Pete_89T2 Lifetime Rotorhead Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Elkton, MD iTrader: (1) Posts: 874 Rep Power: 15	Looks like you got the answer already, but here's a good FAQ on the procedures with pictures, courtesy of MazdaTrix... http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/frontbrg.htm

06-25-2014, 08:56 AM	#8
Turbo II Rotor Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Aurora, CO iTrader: (0) Posts: 59 Rep Power: 17	Got a welder? Throw a bead around the inside of the race. This will shrink the race a little bit and you can usually flip the hub over and bang it on the bench and the race will fall out. http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2...bearing-races/

06-25-2014, 08:33 PM	#9
Garfinkles Motor Works RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (11) Posts: 535 Rep Power: 17	I have done the welding method and the grind , hammer and drift method. I like the notch method because once the notch is made it is ready for the next set of bearings .

07-09-2014, 12:42 PM	#11
Tanj! Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Dallas, TX iTrader: (0) Posts: 44 Rep Power: 0	Another option is to place the entire hub in the oven at 200*F for 10 to 15 minutes. The aluminum hub expands faster than the steel bearing race. You can then just flip the hub over and give it a good whack with a hammer and piece of wood. The race generally just falls right out. Sometimes a little more persuasion is needed.

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