Replacing battery cables, question regarding positive terminal

need RX7 · 03-18-2014, 07:23 PM

Still working on my 'resto-mod' project. I plan on 'rebuilding' the battery cables with new terminals, lugs, and quality welding cable.

I want to replicate the stock layout, but I don't know what to do with the positive battery terminal. In stock form, there are two cables that come out of the positive terminal, one to the starter and the other to the fusebox.

Looking at replacement battery terminals, I can't seem to find one that will accommodate two cables. I'd like to avoid just jamming two cables into one of those ones that uses the bolt-down clamp. Any products available that I'm missing, or should I slightly modify the stock setup? I suppose I could run one thick positive cable to a junction near the battery then run the two cables from there.

RETed · 03-18-2014, 07:54 PM

You can either terminate with a crimp ring terminal and then find a battery terminal that can accommodate those ring terminals or find a battery terminal that can accommodate the two bare wire ends.

If going with #1, you can just stack the ring terminals.
There are lots of options for battery terminals that you should be able to find locally.
Most common are the ones with wing nuts on the top.

For #2, check out "car audio" type battery terminals that allow you to shove bare end stripped wire.
Most can accommodate up to 4AWG easily.
Some have multiple holes to accommodate what you're trying to do.

-Ted

Monkman33 · 03-18-2014, 08:34 PM

Ted is right.

Stinger makes a bunch.

Monkman33 · 03-18-2014, 08:37 PM

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...0046/set_num/2

Here is a place to start from. Get some ideas and see what's out there.

Monkman33 · 03-18-2014, 08:42 PM

Double post

RETed · 03-18-2014, 10:05 PM

Or this type, if you're trying to save money...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Marine-Boa...69330f&vxp=mtr

You'll still need crimp rings to your existing wires to connect then under the wingnut.

-Ted

Garfinkles Motor Works · 03-18-2014, 10:18 PM

I use welding cable as well and I have two cables from both battery post using stinger clamps .

***TitaniumTT*** · 03-18-2014, 11:50 PM

http://www.delcity.net/store/Anti!Ro...rminals/p_1016

http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1424/Battery-Lugs/

Choose your length

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/36090...TERY-TERMINAL/

Crimp the starter wire in that and crimp and eyelet to the other cable and bolt it on.

Or, what I would do personally is get a powerpost and run one cable to the powerpost and then split from there. One of my biggest peeves and rules about rewiring is - 1 wire per battery terminal. I counted... and I shit you not 17 different wires on 1 battery terminal once. Guy wanted me to install a bilge pump.... I billed him $2800 because I wasn't going to touch that shit, I rewired the entire boat... little 18' whaler

need RX7 · 03-19-2014, 02:37 PM

Thanks for the advice, fellas. I hadn't seen those car audio type terminals before, they look like they'd be a good option. The wingnut type would definitely work as well.

I'm leaning toward TTT's solution, though. Mainly because I'd really like to use a terminal that I could solder and heat shrink (like this). And the 'one wire per terminal' thing seems like a good rule.

***TitaniumTT*** · 03-19-2014, 04:11 PM

Crimp! don't solder!

need RX7 · 03-20-2014, 12:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Crimp! don't solder!

I do generally prefer crimping, but I've never seen a battery terminal crimped before. What tool do you use? The one I saw on a quick search has a pretty scary price tag

EDIT: The ones I was looking at were the bolt cutter looking kind which run $2-300. Would a hammer type be appropriate for a battery terminal? I plan on buying one of those anyway for the rest of the cable lugs.

***TitaniumTT*** · 03-20-2014, 08:42 AM

Here's what I use.... not a scary price tag and will do 8ga to 4/0

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/497/TOOL-FOR-CRIMPABLE/

FerociousP · 03-20-2014, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Here's what I use.... not a scary price tag and will do 8ga to 4/0

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/497/TOOL-FOR-CRIMPABLE/

I would much prefer using that.

I was given a Anvil style crimper a while ago so I just use that. Its a little awkward but makes solid crimp, though not the cleanest.

http://www.alpharubicon.com/altenerg...r2manytoyz.htm

http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-770122-.../dp/B003V8BEUI
^similar to this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brute-Hammer...-/111267977856
^mine looks just like this

***TitaniumTT*** · 03-20-2014, 10:34 AM

Yeah.... they work, but they're kind of violent... and you never know if you're getting a proper crimp or not.... with the crimper, if the handle closes, you know you're done...

need RX7 · 03-20-2014, 07:52 PM

$70 is still a little hefty (I'm an FC owner, remember

). However, it's probably worth it for a job well done. I'll probably end up buying that one eventually. It's not like I'll need to build the battery cables anytime soon, anyway.

03-18-2014, 08:34 PM	#3
Monkman33 Still Building my FD Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Pasco, WA iTrader: (1) Posts: 255 Rep Power: 16	Ted is right. Stinger makes a bunch. __________________ Uh.... hi.

03-18-2014, 08:37 PM	#4
Monkman33 Still Building my FD Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Pasco, WA iTrader: (1) Posts: 255 Rep Power: 16	http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...0046/set_num/2 Here is a place to start from. Get some ideas and see what's out there. __________________ Uh.... hi. Last edited by Monkman33; 03-18-2014 at 08:44 PM..

03-18-2014, 08:42 PM	#5
Monkman33 Still Building my FD Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Pasco, WA iTrader: (1) Posts: 255 Rep Power: 16	Double post __________________ Uh.... hi.

03-18-2014, 11:50 PM	#8
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	http://www.delcity.net/store/Anti!Ro...rminals/p_1016 http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1424/Battery-Lugs/ Choose your length http://www.waytekwire.com/item/36090...TERY-TERMINAL/ Crimp the starter wire in that and crimp and eyelet to the other cable and bolt it on. Or, what I would do personally is get a powerpost and run one cable to the powerpost and then split from there. One of my biggest peeves and rules about rewiring is - 1 wire per battery terminal. I counted... and I shit you not 17 different wires on 1 battery terminal once. Guy wanted me to install a bilge pump.... I billed him $2800 because I wasn't going to touch that shit, I rewired the entire boat... little 18' whaler __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

03-19-2014, 02:37 PM	#9
need RX7 Clean S4 Nutswinger Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Sterling Heights, MI iTrader: (0) Posts: 485 Rep Power: 17	Thanks for the advice, fellas. I hadn't seen those car audio type terminals before, they look like they'd be a good option. The wingnut type would definitely work as well. I'm leaning toward TTT's solution, though. Mainly because I'd really like to use a terminal that I could solder and heat shrink (like this). And the 'one wire per terminal' thing seems like a good rule. __________________ -Ted -1986 Mazda RX7 Sport [DD/beater]: engine finally let go at 205k. parts car status. -1986 Mazda RX7 base [resto-mod project]: S5 n/a swap in progress.

03-18-2014, 07:23 PM	#1
need RX7 Clean S4 Nutswinger Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Sterling Heights, MI iTrader: (0) Posts: 485 Rep Power: 17	Replacing battery cables, question regarding positive terminal Still working on my 'resto-mod' project. I plan on 'rebuilding' the battery cables with new terminals, lugs, and quality welding cable. I want to replicate the stock layout, but I don't know what to do with the positive battery terminal. In stock form, there are two cables that come out of the positive terminal, one to the starter and the other to the fusebox. Looking at replacement battery terminals, I can't seem to find one that will accommodate two cables. I'd like to avoid just jamming two cables into one of those ones that uses the bolt-down clamp. Any products available that I'm missing, or should I slightly modify the stock setup? I suppose I could run one thick positive cable to a junction near the battery then run the two cables from there. __________________ -Ted -1986 Mazda RX7 Sport [DD/beater]: engine finally let go at 205k. parts car status. -1986 Mazda RX7 base [resto-mod project]: S5 n/a swap in progress.

03-18-2014, 10:18 PM	#7
Garfinkles Motor Works RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (11) Posts: 535 Rep Power: 17	I use welding cable as well and I have two cables from both battery post using stinger clamps .

03-19-2014, 04:11 PM	#10
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Crimp! don't solder! __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

03-20-2014, 08:42 AM	#12
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Here's what I use.... not a scary price tag and will do 8ga to 4/0 http://www.waytekwire.com/item/497/TOOL-FOR-CRIMPABLE/ __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

03-20-2014, 10:34 AM	#14
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Yeah.... they work, but they're kind of violent... and you never know if you're getting a proper crimp or not.... with the crimper, if the handle closes, you know you're done... __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

03-20-2014, 07:52 PM	#15
need RX7 Clean S4 Nutswinger Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Sterling Heights, MI iTrader: (0) Posts: 485 Rep Power: 17	$70 is still a little hefty (I'm an FC owner, remember ). However, it's probably worth it for a job well done. I'll probably end up buying that one eventually. It's not like I'll need to build the battery cables anytime soon, anyway. __________________ -Ted -1986 Mazda RX7 Sport [DD/beater]: engine finally let go at 205k. parts car status. -1986 Mazda RX7 base [resto-mod project]: S5 n/a swap in progress.

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