Sticking gas filler door

[RETed]

I was going to make a pretty write-up with pics and all, but...

...I just found out my digcam just got eaten by leaking batteries.
*sigh*

NO MOAR PICS!

So, I'm just submitting a plain-jane, all-text write-up...

Problem: gas filler door "pin" sticks in the "pull" position and will not release, keeping the gas filler door unsecured

You'll need to remove the 14mm nut that holds the threaded, keyed collar.
This 14mm nut is inside the gas filler door once it's opened.

There's a "stop" bracket that'll slide right off once the 14mm nut is removed.

You'll need to access the backside of the assembly, by popping the hatch (glass) open and pulling back the carpet panels in that corner.

Once you remove the assembly, you should be able to pull it out a good foot out of the hatch area.

There should be a black, roundish, rubber washer that seals the "front" of the bracket to the vehicle chassis / gas filler door metal.
Remove and place in a safe area.

You'll need to carefully pry the "front" part of the holding bracket to release the threaded, keyed collar and maybe the "rear" part of the bracket to release the cable release linkage end to separate the entire assembly from the cable release.

Remove the spring and put it in a safe area.

Everything should be able to come apart at this point in time.
You should end up with:
1) spring
2) black, roundish, rubber sealing washer
3) steel, threaded, keyed collar
4) gray plastic pin / pull handle
5) metal bracket
6) cable release linkage, which is still secured to the vehicle

I've found a little bit of white crusty stuff around both ends of the threaded, keyed collar.
Possibly some dried up white lithium grease?
Scraping this stuff up doesn't really help much.

I ran a 3/16" drill but through the threaded, keyed collar, but the plastic pin still had some trouble sliding freely.
When examining the plastic part, it looked like the pin had warped just enough to cause seizing.
I could've just lubed the whole assembly with some grease and crossed my fingers everything worked, but my modifying bug bit me...

I could've sanded down the plastic part, but why weaken the plastic piece???
Drill the threaded, keyed collar...
I had a 13/64" drill bit with me, so I tried that...
It went in a little, but it never went all the way through.
Chucked the 13/64" drill bit...
Drilled the threaded, keyed collar out just a tad...
(I used a vice grip to hold the threaded, keyed collar - use as little pressure as possible just to secure it from flying across the room.)
Once drilled, there was a lot more clearance for the plastic pin.
Success!

Slapped on some Mobil1 synth grease lightly on all the plastic-to-metal contact areas...
Reassembled everything...
Testing...testing...testing...
Everything works as good as new.

Enjoy!


-Ted

[Pete_89T2]

Nice write up Ted. My gas door is working fine, but you motivated me to take a preventive maintenance look at it, and thoroughly clean & re-grease the works. Want to avoid it ever failing in the "pin out"/door locked mode as that would really ruin my day.

[RETed]

Yeah, this became major annoying when you gotta keep popping the inside carpet panels off just to reset the damn thing.
Either the sharp plastic panel edges or the metal clips that hold on the top strip tends to scratch me everytime...

BTW, for info...the car is a 1987 Turbo II with a little over 126K miles on it.


-Ted

[omega]

Thanks Ted. I did this and it works like a champ!

[infernosg]

I guess I'll need to check the fuel door on the '86 when I get back in town.

[tweiss3]

I may have to try to do this one day, as I manually pop the fuel door every fill up from behind the carpet.

[Ubaru]

This was insightful for my 83 that has one that sticks closed. the bugger is a pain to open.