Good bye wheel hop, Hellooo quick 60's

sen2two · 09-01-2010, 03:57 PM

This is how you get rid of wheels hop for 6k+ launches!!!

Even the Mazda competition mount sucks. So what i did was take my factory one. Which was broken of course. Sand blast it clean then trim off the front piece. Then weld in thick steel bracing to make i truly stiff and UN-BREAKABLE!!! You don' need a TIG to do this. You can easily MIG it with no problem. I just prefer TIG for everything.

I also did this because i swapped out my tired old NA diff for the world famous TII s4 diff. S4 diffs, are the strongest of all Mazda factory rear ends. Then added solid rear diff mounts and a pinion snubber. Good bye wheel hop...

sen2two · 09-01-2010, 04:00 PM

I also added soild tranny and motor mounts. I will be making a brace for the motor to keep it a little stiffer. I want all slack and slop removed from the drivetrain.

I have a small goal of breaking into the 12's with stock motor, turbo, ECU, ect. ect. ect. Getting off the line is key here for me.

Boosted FC · 09-01-2010, 04:41 PM

Looks really good. Would you be willing to do this for anyone else?

sen2two · 09-01-2010, 06:20 PM

I could. You can PM me if you are interested...

***TitaniumTT*** · 09-01-2010, 09:14 PM

I've NEVER had wheel hop issues @ 400whp. I'm also skeptical of a diff mount stopping wheel hop when there's no direct/solid connection between the diff and the wheels.

I think you're feeling the diff smack the undercarriage and confusing it with wheel hop.

sen2two · 09-01-2010, 09:29 PM

I had video of the wheel hop. No confusion here...

Your a lucky fella then. Just about all of my FC's had wheel hop. Most other owners are plagued with it also. I think the reason you dont have wheel hop is you either have a good suspension set-up, solid mounts already, or just spinning the tires.

Now, not all FC's in the world will get wheel hop. But this is not my first FC. This is also not the first time i have cured wheel hop.

josh18_2k · 09-01-2010, 09:33 PM

thats gonna break the mounting tabs off the subframe. only a matter of time...
the front diff mount needs some method of damping vibrations, other than metal fatigue

sen2two · 09-01-2010, 09:42 PM

I am not the first to do this I'm sure...

There are people running 8's and 9's on the factory TII rear. You think they did that with the Mazda mount? No way...

To break the mounting tab off the sub-frame there would have to be slop and movement in the drivetrain. I will have as close to zero slack in the drive train as physically possible with the stock drivetrain. IF the mountuing tab did ever break, which i doubt. I will beef that up also.

RotorDad · 09-01-2010, 09:57 PM

I have seen a few FC's with some pretty bad wheel hop in the past, how have these worked out for you? On my Spec V, yes it FWD we use solid mount or poly inserts to help aid with wheel hop. Soft mounts no good!

Nismo · 09-01-2010, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sen2two

I am not the first to do this I'm sure...

There are people running 8's and 9's on the factory TII rear. You think they did that with the Mazda mount? No way...

To break the mounting tab off the sub-frame there would have to be slop and movement in the drivetrain. I will have as close to zero slack in the drive train as physically possible with the stock drivetrain. IF the mountuing tab did ever break, which i doubt. I will beef that up also.

I did this years ago, it worked, but like mentioned above I ripped the mounts off the sub-frame, I beefed that up with some angle, been good for 2 years. But with a pinion snubber, you shouldn't have wheel hop... What are your tire pressures, and suspension set up?

sk8world · 09-01-2010, 10:55 PM

mt et streets = no wheel hop.

sen2two · 09-01-2010, 10:55 PM

Tire pressure is 30psi on 255/40/17 Falken Azenas with Rays Gram light 57s.

But all this is being done because I will be running the car on a set of 15x8 Weld pro stars with 26" tall slicks, with skinnies up front. Starting at 15psi rear wheel tire pressure, and adjusting from there.

antman0408 · 09-01-2010, 11:44 PM

I've always had wheel hop in my car, and its the worst when I'm launching at the track. I even put in a pinion snubber and still get it. It reduced hop some but not all.
Good luck to you on hitting 12s. I'm kinda have the same goal, 12s with the stock turbo. With a good launch, I think I'll get it.

RETed · 09-02-2010, 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by josh18_2k

thats gonna break the mounting tabs off the subframe. only a matter of time...
the front diff mount needs some method of damping vibrations, other than metal fatigue

+1

To the OP: you're giving yourself too much credit

This is not about slop.
It's about torque transfer.
Regardless of slop, that kinda torque transfer is going to...torque...something.
You just moved the weakest link from the front diff mount to the sub frame.

Have fun fixing that when it breaks...

-Ted

RotorDad · 09-02-2010, 12:57 AM

Wheel hop is not good for drivetrain parts so getting rid of it is a plus. Running a slick doesn't always solve the problem, I'm sure that most of us have seen cars running slicks have terrible tire shake. BTW running a slick & dead hooking will induce more stress on drivetrain parts. A progressive spin will cause slower times, but will be easier on parts. Sometimes while fixing one problem we just move the problem somewhere else, so making a decision pros over cons comes to play. The more power achieved may reintroduce wheel hop once mods have been done to correct the previous problem. If everyone is worried about braking stuff I suggest that you don't race your car. Shit happens from the weekend racer to the pro level teams.

09-01-2010, 03:57 PM	#1
sen2two KTEC Join Date: Jan 2009 iTrader: (2) Posts: 642 Rep Power: 0	Good bye wheel hop, Hellooo quick 60's This is how you get rid of wheels hop for 6k+ launches!!! Even the Mazda competition mount sucks. So what i did was take my factory one. Which was broken of course. Sand blast it clean then trim off the front piece. Then weld in thick steel bracing to make i truly stiff and UN-BREAKABLE!!! You don' need a TIG to do this. You can easily MIG it with no problem. I just prefer TIG for everything. I also did this because i swapped out my tired old NA diff for the world famous TII s4 diff. S4 diffs, are the strongest of all Mazda factory rear ends. Then added solid rear diff mounts and a pinion snubber. Good bye wheel hop... __________________ what I have: 1985 Gs:12a All motor Drag car - 1973 Rx2: Play car What I had: 93 Touring: TRADED - 91 Coupe: TRADED - 90 GTU: RHD - 88 10AE: SOLD - 87 Base: SOLD - 86 Base: SOLD - 1985 GSLSE - 85 Gsl: SOLD - 80 Gs: TRADED - 1972 Rx2

09-01-2010, 04:00 PM	#2
sen2two KTEC Join Date: Jan 2009 iTrader: (2) Posts: 642 Rep Power: 0	I also added soild tranny and motor mounts. I will be making a brace for the motor to keep it a little stiffer. I want all slack and slop removed from the drivetrain. I have a small goal of breaking into the 12's with stock motor, turbo, ECU, ect. ect. ect. Getting off the line is key here for me. __________________ what I have: 1985 Gs:12a All motor Drag car - 1973 Rx2: Play car What I had: 93 Touring: TRADED - 91 Coupe: TRADED - 90 GTU: RHD - 88 10AE: SOLD - 87 Base: SOLD - 86 Base: SOLD - 1985 GSLSE - 85 Gsl: SOLD - 80 Gs: TRADED - 1972 Rx2

09-01-2010, 04:41 PM	#3
Boosted FC Rotary & Boost Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Dallas, Ga iTrader: (0) Posts: 203 Rep Power: 17	Looks really good. Would you be willing to do this for anyone else? __________________ '05 Copper 6s, '87 TII RX7...248whp & 224wtq @ 12lbs

09-01-2010, 06:20 PM	#4
sen2two KTEC Join Date: Jan 2009 iTrader: (2) Posts: 642 Rep Power: 0	I could. You can PM me if you are interested... __________________ what I have: 1985 Gs:12a All motor Drag car - 1973 Rx2: Play car What I had: 93 Touring: TRADED - 91 Coupe: TRADED - 90 GTU: RHD - 88 10AE: SOLD - 87 Base: SOLD - 86 Base: SOLD - 1985 GSLSE - 85 Gsl: SOLD - 80 Gs: TRADED - 1972 Rx2

09-01-2010, 09:14 PM	#5
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	I've NEVER had wheel hop issues @ 400whp. I'm also skeptical of a diff mount stopping wheel hop when there's no direct/solid connection between the diff and the wheels. I think you're feeling the diff smack the undercarriage and confusing it with wheel hop. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

09-01-2010, 09:29 PM	#6
sen2two KTEC Join Date: Jan 2009 iTrader: (2) Posts: 642 Rep Power: 0	I had video of the wheel hop. No confusion here... Your a lucky fella then. Just about all of my FC's had wheel hop. Most other owners are plagued with it also. I think the reason you dont have wheel hop is you either have a good suspension set-up, solid mounts already, or just spinning the tires. Now, not all FC's in the world will get wheel hop. But this is not my first FC. This is also not the first time i have cured wheel hop. __________________ what I have: 1985 Gs:12a All motor Drag car - 1973 Rx2: Play car What I had: 93 Touring: TRADED - 91 Coupe: TRADED - 90 GTU: RHD - 88 10AE: SOLD - 87 Base: SOLD - 86 Base: SOLD - 1985 GSLSE - 85 Gsl: SOLD - 80 Gs: TRADED - 1972 Rx2

09-01-2010, 09:33 PM	#7
josh18_2k Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Gresham, OR iTrader: (0) Posts: 473 Rep Power: 17	thats gonna break the mounting tabs off the subframe. only a matter of time... the front diff mount needs some method of damping vibrations, other than metal fatigue __________________

09-01-2010, 09:42 PM	#8
sen2two KTEC Join Date: Jan 2009 iTrader: (2) Posts: 642 Rep Power: 0	I am not the first to do this I'm sure... There are people running 8's and 9's on the factory TII rear. You think they did that with the Mazda mount? No way... To break the mounting tab off the sub-frame there would have to be slop and movement in the drivetrain. I will have as close to zero slack in the drive train as physically possible with the stock drivetrain. IF the mountuing tab did ever break, which i doubt. I will beef that up also. __________________ what I have: 1985 Gs:12a All motor Drag car - 1973 Rx2: Play car What I had: 93 Touring: TRADED - 91 Coupe: TRADED - 90 GTU: RHD - 88 10AE: SOLD - 87 Base: SOLD - 86 Base: SOLD - 1985 GSLSE - 85 Gsl: SOLD - 80 Gs: TRADED - 1972 Rx2 Last edited by sen2two; 09-01-2010 at 09:45 PM..

09-01-2010, 09:57 PM	#9
RotorDad Big Ugly Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Fredericksburg, Va iTrader: (1) Posts: 591 Rep Power: 16	I have seen a few FC's with some pretty bad wheel hop in the past, how have these worked out for you? On my Spec V, yes it FWD we use solid mount or poly inserts to help aid with wheel hop. Soft mounts no good! __________________ *Boosted Big Body On 335's* PS3 ID: Rotordad 1986 Mazda RX7 GXL - Street ported 13BT, Haltech, 62mm, ect. 2006 MazdaSpeed 6 - Eagle, Wiseco, Cobb, ect. Last edited by RotorDad; 09-02-2010 at 12:28 AM..

09-01-2010, 10:55 PM	#11
sk8world 600rwhp club member. Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (2) Posts: 551 Rep Power: 17	mt et streets = no wheel hop. __________________ 6.? @ 11? drag pass http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wfxT2RMr7c

09-01-2010, 11:44 PM	#13
antman0408 Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Jan 2009 iTrader: (1) Posts: 61 Rep Power: 16	I've always had wheel hop in my car, and its the worst when I'm launching at the track. I even put in a pinion snubber and still get it. It reduced hop some but not all. Good luck to you on hitting 12s. I'm kinda have the same goal, 12s with the stock turbo. With a good launch, I think I'll get it.

09-02-2010, 12:57 AM	#15
RotorDad Big Ugly Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Fredericksburg, Va iTrader: (1) Posts: 591 Rep Power: 16	Wheel hop is not good for drivetrain parts so getting rid of it is a plus. Running a slick doesn't always solve the problem, I'm sure that most of us have seen cars running slicks have terrible tire shake. BTW running a slick & dead hooking will induce more stress on drivetrain parts. A progressive spin will cause slower times, but will be easier on parts. Sometimes while fixing one problem we just move the problem somewhere else, so making a decision pros over cons comes to play. The more power achieved may reintroduce wheel hop once mods have been done to correct the previous problem. If everyone is worried about braking stuff I suggest that you don't race your car. Shit happens from the weekend racer to the pro level teams. __________________ *Boosted Big Body On 335's* PS3 ID: Rotordad 1986 Mazda RX7 GXL - Street ported 13BT, Haltech, 62mm, ect. 2006 MazdaSpeed 6 - Eagle, Wiseco, Cobb, ect.

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