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Old 06-09-2010, 01:25 AM   #1
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Default 20b/13b-re mount plans for FC

I'm looking to build some mounts for my 20b swap into my FC. I was curious if there were any publicly available plans that people have been using to do this before I go reinventing the wheel. I'd prefer not to buy them since I have access to some pretty decent fabrication tools.






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Old 06-09-2010, 01:51 AM   #2
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Take two Drivers side FC mounts, the steel ones, and weld them to a plate that can bolt to the engine, make sure the engine sits level on the subframe, and you are set. This is the easiest way I have come up with, and the way I will be doing mine.
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Old 06-09-2010, 10:04 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nismo View Post
Take two Drivers side FC mounts, the steel ones, and weld them to a plate that can bolt to the engine, make sure the engine sits level on the subframe, and you are set. This is the easiest way I have come up with, and the way I will be doing mine.
Interesting, you have pictures of the mount?
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Old 06-09-2010, 10:28 AM   #4
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That sounds a lot easier than what I was considering. Initially I had thought I would rig something like this http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=718388. I can machine the spacers and the Delrin, it would just be a matter of getting the mount geometry right without having the car here. (Car is in storage at a buddy's house about an hour away while the engine gets worked on)
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Old 06-09-2010, 11:24 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamespond24 View Post
Interesting, you have pictures of the mount?
Like I said, it's not done yet, but this is how I am going to do it, the angles are already there, just have to make sure they sit at the same height, and weld some plate to the back to mount to engine.

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That sounds a lot easier than what I was considering. Initially I had thought I would rig something like this http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=718388. I can machine the spacers and the Delrin, it would just be a matter of getting the mount geometry right without having the car here. (Car is in storage at a buddy's house about an hour away while the engine gets worked on)
I was dicking around with ideas for a longggggg time, and this just came to me one day when I was sorting spare parts.
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Old 06-09-2010, 12:45 PM   #6
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are you guys building your own so you can also avoid issues like the sway bar and oil pan? or is it soley because you have the resources to DIY
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Old 06-09-2010, 12:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by project86 View Post
are you guys building your own so you can also avoid issues like the sway bar and oil pan? or is it soley because you have the resources to DIY
I can so I will LOL. Never knew there were sway bar issues? Must be with the 20B only?
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Old 06-09-2010, 12:49 PM   #8
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Banzai sells mounts for the 20B/RE. Defined Autoworks has made mounts they claim are triangulated better than the Banzai mounts but when I emailed them about availability I never received a reply.
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Old 06-09-2010, 12:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nismo View Post
I can so I will LOL. Never knew there were sway bar issues? Must be with the 20B only?
Lol i dont blame you. Ya there are/or can be sway bar issues depending on the route you go. Ive been doing alot of research because i 20B is in my near future. Ive heard of ppl going as far as modifying the sway bar mounts.

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Banzai sells mounts for the 20B/RE. Defined Autoworks has made mounts they claim are triangulated better than the Banzai mounts but when I emailed them about availability I never received a reply.
I sent them and email im guessin maybe 2 or 3 months ago and just got a reply a few weeks ago. they said there server was having issues.
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Old 06-09-2010, 01:19 PM   #10
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project86 is correct. The oil pan and stock front sway bar attempt to occupy the same space. I'm trying to DIY simply because I have access to the tools, and to shave $200 off the build price.

Since I'll be having a new bar bent (see, that's where the $200 will go lol) the only requirement for me is that the mounts be low enough to provide clearance for the IC piping to the stock twins. Some of the hood supports will probably end up being cut out as well.
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Old 06-09-2010, 01:47 PM   #11
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my application will be na. i forgot about hood clearances... one thing you can do to avoid the sway bar/oilpan issue is use the RX8 tranny. It moves the engine back 3in. i believe,according to more research and info from TTT (correct me if im mistaken). also i think that would allow for more room in the front of the bay so you didnt have to remount the radiator and use electric fans.
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Old 06-09-2010, 02:07 PM   #12
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I've got a TII, so since the tranny is already bought and paid for I'd like to use that. Additionally, the stock TII radiator isn't enough to keep a 20b cool. You can pick up a koyo, build a shroud, and rob an e-fan from some crappy econobox for relatively cheap.
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Old 06-09-2010, 02:22 PM   #13
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oh right. i figured the stock rad wouldnt be good enough. i was assuming having to remount regardless. i think i wanna use efan anyway.
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Old 06-09-2010, 04:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revelc View Post
project86 is correct. The oil pan and stock front sway bar attempt to occupy the same space. I'm trying to DIY simply because I have access to the tools, and to shave $200 off the build price.

Since I'll be having a new bar bent (see, that's where the $200 will go lol) the only requirement for me is that the mounts be low enough to provide clearance for the IC piping to the stock twins. Some of the hood supports will probably end up being cut out as well.

Why fabricate an entirely new sway bar costing hundreds of dollars and probably go through two or three iterations before it's right when all you have to do is build a small spacer to drop the bar down slightly?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Revelc View Post
I've got a TII, so since the tranny is already bought and paid for I'd like to use that. Additionally, the stock TII radiator isn't enough to keep a 20b cool. You can pick up a koyo, build a shroud, and rob an e-fan from some crappy econobox for relatively cheap.
That trans sucks, and if you're using the 20B twins, you're stuck using the factory ECU or running them non-sequential. Eitherway the ratios in the TII box blow canadian moose cock. If I were to do a 20B I would rock the RX8 box and move the bitch back 3.625".

Something else to think about would be a custom AL oil pan fab'ed from some 1/4" AL, would also serve to stiffen the block slightly.

Lastly, not to sound like a dick, but this sounds like a really low buck 20B build. Low buck 20B don't belong together.
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Old 06-09-2010, 04:42 PM   #15
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DIY != low buck by any means, especially when you have more tools at your disposal than a dremel. Yes, the twins are already changed to non-sequential, and the TII drive train will be fine for the time being.

If you've got details on the spacer, by all means show me some pics or drawings and I'll fab one right up.

EDIT: All the new oil pan setups I've seen are for dry sumps, which is a far more expensive ordeal than a new sway bar. Again if you've got drawings/pics let me know and I'll be more than happy to make one. The purpose of this thread was to find out what plans were in the public arena before I went reinventing things.

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