Plain Jane OEM nothing to see here rebuild - Page 6

osirus9 · 08-19-2011, 04:59 PM

I honestly just tightened my flywheel nut with a huge breaker bar to "Frikkentight" german specs... It never came loose lol. And yes, you need to put locktight on it too.

Love the build progress. I also had some of my stuff powdercoated during my own rebuild and it looked so awesome out of the car. Then once it was in the car I couldnt see it anymore...

Point is, Think of all the stuff that goes ON TOP of the UIM/LIM/engine and get that powdercoated too! I forgot a few things (brackets mostly) and they dont look as good rattle canned as my powdercoated stuff. stuff like block off plates, AC bracket, oil filler neck, throttle cable bracket, IC piping, BAC valve.

I also went through the trouble of polishing the Mazda logo on my engine, but its kinda depressing how impossible it is to see after it's installed.

JustJeff · 08-19-2011, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by osirus9

I honestly just tightened my flywheel nut with a huge breaker bar to "Frikkentight" german specs... It never came loose lol. And yes, you need to put locktight on it too.

Love the build progress. I also had some of my stuff powdercoated during my own rebuild and it looked so awesome out of the car. Then once it was in the car I couldnt see it anymore...

Point is, Think of all the stuff that goes ON TOP of the UIM/LIM/engine and get that powdercoated too! I forgot a few things (brackets mostly) and they dont look as good rattle canned as my powdercoated stuff. stuff like block off plates, AC bracket, oil filler neck, throttle cable bracket, IC piping, BAC valve.

I also went through the trouble of polishing the Mazda logo on my engine, but its kinda depressing how impossible it is to see after it's installed.

I got all the parts I chose to have done either black or silver. My cold side of the turbo is the same silver as my homemade TID and my IC charge pipe. I got my InfiniIV strut bar ends the same silver. Eventually I'll get the actual bar done in red, probably the same time I do my front brakes.

I did all my pulleys in the same black as the rest. I didn't do my p/s and a/c bracket. I have an a/c only bracket that I'll eventually be using but need to get the matching a/c compressor.

JustJeff · 08-20-2011, 06:16 AM

Thanks for the feedback, and yes my overthinking things is a common theme. I had a night to sleep on it. I tried calling a friend who's torn down a few engines to see if he had any spacers. Nope he doesn't.

I'm gonna see if any machine shops are open today and see about getting my spacer shaved down a few .001. I doubt I'll find any open so I'm also thinking about simply sanding it down with a block and measuring it with some dial calipers.

NoDOHC · 08-20-2011, 09:36 AM

Make sure and get it square if you do so. If you change the length of the spacer, you should really change the letter label on it too, so that someone doesn't get confused in the future.

I have 3 spacers and they are all K's

Too much endplay is much better than not enough. Not enough usually means that the front thrust bearing is not centered on the spacer.

JustJeff · 08-20-2011, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoDOHC

Make sure and get it square if you do so. If you change the length of the spacer, you should really change the letter label on it too, so that someone doesn't get confused in the future.

I have 3 spacers and they are all K's

Too much endplay is much better than not enough. Not enough usually means that the front thrust bearing is not centered on the spacer.

I'm thinking the same thing about keeping it square. Originally I was thinking I'd take some scrap wood and use a hole bore drill bit to make a trough for it to sit in. Then use a sanding block. None of my hole bits are the right size. Rather than go out to the store (I'm 20 min. drive each way from anything) I'm gonna set it on a flat surface and sand the top side of it. I've got some dial calipers and am going to take some measurements at different points for before and after.

If I screw it up I'm no worse off in the long run. I won't put it on if it doesn't measure square. I can't use it as-is.

I thought of the same thing with marking it, but am not sure what to mark it with. I don't have anything to engrave it with. Paint will come off. I've taken all kinds of notes and kept a picture archive. That way if I ever sell the car or engine the buyer has a record showing I did a quality job on the rebuild and any other little details they or I might need down the road.

I came in to check measurements on the spacers so I can start sanding this down. Who knows, if I butcher this I may be back in putting up a "Want to buy" thread for narrower spacers :P

JustJeff · 08-20-2011, 02:23 PM

Came in to take a beer break and announce that sanding worked. I've got written down how much I took off the spacer, more important I measured on 6 points around the spacer and it's all even. Most important end play is .0021

NoDOHC · 08-21-2011, 09:32 PM

Awesome, glad that you got it fixed!

Gregory Casimir · 08-23-2011, 10:19 AM

hey what did you use to paint the engine irons, housings, and plenum?

JustJeff · 08-24-2011, 01:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoDOHC

Awesome, glad that you got it fixed!

Thanks, though I've been so busy with work that the project is moving very slowly. I hate it when real life gets in the way of my fun time. I just got home from putting in 8 hours after my 8-5 shift. We've got a special event going on in a couple days and the boss and I are putting in mad hours making sure it goes smoothly. I'll be there late tomorrow and the next day. I might put in a half day on Saturday just to catch up on things that are falling behind because of prep for the special event.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregory Casimir

hey what did you use to paint the engine irons, housings, and plenum?

Irons and housings are rattle can high temp paints. I used high temp primer and I used aluminum primer for the housings. I also put a couple coats of clear on.

The plenums, block-off plates, front cover, pulleys, water pump housing, turbo compressor housing, turbo charge pipe, and inlet ducting are all powder coated. Oh I've also got an Infini IV bar that I have the ends powder coated. Eventually I'll get the actual bar as well as a spare set of 4 piston brakes powder coated.

JustJeff · 09-25-2011, 04:03 PM

I'm going to make a separate thread cause I don't know how many people actually look at this...but here is a question I've come up with.....

When removing the duty/boost solenoid should I depin it from the ECU? And should I remove it at all?

My build is in my signature. S5 JDM engine, N370 Rtek 1.7, RB REV TII exhaust, Hallman MBC. I've removed all the solenoids accept the PRC. I've got the rats nest on but with vacuum caps on everything no longer used.

I'm planning to depin 2M which is the VDI on N/A and knock on turbos. Should I depin 3R (Duty/Boost Solenoid)? Or with the Rtek should I be keeping the boost solenoid intact?

RETed · 09-25-2011, 11:02 PM

I've seen the other thread, but I'll reply here...

It is my understanding that the (stock) ECU looks for resistance in the circuit.
If it doesn't see the required resistance, it triggers an error code.
Your plan of depinning the wiring harness should end up throwing an error code...
The good side is that this doesn't trigger some ugly limp-home mode - it just causes the CHECK ENGINE light to come on.

-Ted

JustJeff · 09-26-2011, 02:29 PM

Thanks Ted. So ideally I want to keep the ECU pinned. And also keep the solenoid plugged in, but cap the vacuum. That keeps it from doing anything?

I'll have to do a little research. I once knew what needed changed from N/A harness to turbo harness but have forgotten it. I thought depining would solve those problems.

JustJeff · 09-27-2011, 03:38 PM

Soooo close to trying to get it to turn over.

I had to order spark plugs...I should be able to pick them up today after wrok.
I have to top off transmission fluid. It burns my ass that I need 2.5 liters and the bottles come in 1 liter. I had a cheap moment and held off on buying a 3rd bottle of Royal Purple fluid....$60 for tranny fluid makes me cringe.
Obviously I have a couple electrical/ECU issues to work out.
I need a fuse for my efan
Gotta work out vacuum hoses for my MAP, boost gauge and OEM BOV...speaking of which I have a question that I'll post a pic about.

JustJeff · 09-27-2011, 03:49 PM

I've read about using restrictor pills for boost gauges to keep them from bouncing and MAP for even readings at the ECU. I've stolen these off the previous N/A engine. Is there any reason why I can't use these check valves?

Pete_89T2 · 09-27-2011, 05:39 PM

Yup, these check valves don't really restrict airflow all that much in the "open" direction, and they completely block airflow in the "closed" direction. That's not what you want for plumbing the MAP pressure sensor or a boost gauge - what you want is a restriction in the airflow, which has the effect of dampening the transient pressure spikes your MAP sensor or boost gauge would see.

The restrictor pill is a little plastic thingy with a tiny hole thru it that fits inside the vacuum hose. Most of us loose these when replacing old worn out vacuum hoses. You can fabricate one pretty easily as follows:

1. Get a straight-thru style vacuum hose coupler.
2. Fill the inside of the coupler with some epoxy putty or JB weld.
3. Before epoxy fully hardens, run a pin through it to create your restrictive path for airflow.

08-20-2011, 09:36 AM	#4
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	Make sure and get it square if you do so. If you change the length of the spacer, you should really change the letter label on it too, so that someone doesn't get confused in the future. I have 3 spacers and they are all K's Too much endplay is much better than not enough. Not enough usually means that the front thrust bearing is not centered on the spacer. __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic) Last edited by NoDOHC; 08-20-2011 at 09:40 AM.

08-21-2011, 09:32 PM	#7
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	Awesome, glad that you got it fixed! __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)

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08-19-2011, 04:59 PM	#1
osirus9 Jackstand drifter Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Chicago IL Posts: 4 Rep Power: 0	I honestly just tightened my flywheel nut with a huge breaker bar to "Frikkentight" german specs... It never came loose lol. And yes, you need to put locktight on it too. Love the build progress. I also had some of my stuff powdercoated during my own rebuild and it looked so awesome out of the car. Then once it was in the car I couldnt see it anymore... Point is, Think of all the stuff that goes ON TOP of the UIM/LIM/engine and get that powdercoated too! I forgot a few things (brackets mostly) and they dont look as good rattle canned as my powdercoated stuff. stuff like block off plates, AC bracket, oil filler neck, throttle cable bracket, IC piping, BAC valve. I also went through the trouble of polishing the Mazda logo on my engine, but its kinda depressing how impossible it is to see after it's installed.

08-23-2011, 10:19 AM	#8
Gregory Casimir Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2010 Posts: 253 Rep Power: 16	hey what did you use to paint the engine irons, housings, and plenum?

09-27-2011, 05:39 PM	#15
Pete_89T2 Lifetime Rotorhead Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Elkton, MD Posts: 874 Rep Power: 16	Yup, these check valves don't really restrict airflow all that much in the "open" direction, and they completely block airflow in the "closed" direction. That's not what you want for plumbing the MAP pressure sensor or a boost gauge - what you want is a restriction in the airflow, which has the effect of dampening the transient pressure spikes your MAP sensor or boost gauge would see. The restrictor pill is a little plastic thingy with a tiny hole thru it that fits inside the vacuum hose. Most of us loose these when replacing old worn out vacuum hoses. You can fabricate one pretty easily as follows: 1. Get a straight-thru style vacuum hose coupler. 2. Fill the inside of the coupler with some epoxy putty or JB weld. 3. Before epoxy fully hardens, run a pin through it to create your restrictive path for airflow.