Diary of a Madman; TitaniumTT's see you @ DGRRXI RE-REbuild

[vex]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

From what I understand from the MoTeC notes and data sheets, the Renni OMP is a non feedback OMP and requires a different ECU option. Anything 13B uses the feedback type OMP and that's a basic stepper motor option. The 13B electric OMP is a feedback type stepper, that's how, from what I understand, all the DBW's work, you need redundacy damnit

For the OMP you do need an input signal for position to have it work, however on the Haltech when running an ICV, it does not require the use of another input (as other sensors dictate the need and what not of the valve)--thus it stands to reason that if you can find a means of using the stepper motor without the extra need of an input you could mimic the same stepper motor controls with a predetermined startup routine.

(I was referencing the AAS startup routine in the original post)

[one320fc]

[QUOTE=TitaniumTT;143615]Of course you wish that..... who in their right mind would sell an FC???!?!?!!??



I dunno about that but thanks man, I appreciate it. Bill does give it back as good as he takes it though, I do have to say that.... and after the Deals he's gonna get a lot more

You coming to Deals? 'Cuz I will definately be there.... I think tomorrow I may try and go for the record, 53 hrs Get ahead of the curve before she goes down for 2 weeks.


I can't my bitch of an ex-wife is taking me back to court to take the kids from me..Figured she would learn after the first two attempts didnt work so paying for lawyer, new house, and putting what little money I have into the LE. I will just have to settle for DGRR 2012!

[muibubbles]

your thread has so much writing.... i wish there were more pictures =(

[helghast7]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Sexy..... I need my Stage 3's here, noaw damnit!!!!

well you will definetly be done before me when it comes to that type of upgrade, i keep getting hit with these large bills, i need to get more stabilized again before i can really start buying stuff, i have a feeling my diff is going to sit at daves at least a month before i can go get it

as for the switches, thats next on my todo list, first i need to finish buttoning up this bike so i can deliver it already, once thats done im gonna dive into the basement and locate them and bring the cup holder idea for you at the same time

btw, i just remembered, whats a good company to get a resonator from because i blew out the one we welded in, so that rules out magnaflow and obx, i was thinking borla but there just so pricey im not sure its worth it

i was also thinking about a straight pipe because i dont care how loud the car is, as long as it doesnt resonate inside...bbbbuuuutttt rotaries ive heard without some sort of resonator tend to have a very metallic hollow twang to them, whereas im more fond of my deeper roar...idk

[RX SE7EN]

^ you absolutely want some sort of resonator. Don't get me wrong, I loooovve me the sound of a rotary, they really rev my engine (shameless anchorman plug haha). But with a 3" exhaust, no cat, and just a straight through muffler at the end, they are aweful sounding on the street, highway trips become painful, and its annoying around town. I'd get a nice long resonator, even some of the higher end cherry bomb, 3" by 18" will give it a nice sound. The standard glasspack won't last long, but if you weld on vbands, making it easy to change out, they are cheap enough to replace. You can get higher end ones that won't burn up so quickly as well.

Are you could spend more money and get a couple generic 3" HFC's welded in series, that will quiet it down without causing much restriction as well.

[helghast7]

Originally Posted by RX SE7EN

^ you absolutely want some sort of resonator. Don't get me wrong, I loooovve me the sound of a rotary, they really rev my engine (shameless anchorman plug haha). But with a 3" exhaust, no cat, and just a straight through muffler at the end, they are aweful sounding on the street, highway trips become painful, and its annoying around town.

i agree with you to an extent, my biggest problem at the moment is that when you blow out a resonator it has a tendency to resonate outwards instead if inwards so the massive amount of droning that occurs in the cabin is almost ear splitting, whereas a straight through would be crazy loud outside, but close the windows and all is well

my personal preference to a resonator is the deeper tone it provides, our biggest trouble is we(turbo) create so much heat and pressure among other things that the average resonator cant withstand it for long..which blows

Originally Posted by RX SE7EN

I'd get a nice long resonator, even some of the higher end cherry bomb, 3" by 18" will give it a nice sound. The standard glasspack won't last long, but if you weld on vbands, making it easy to change out, they are cheap enough to replace. You can get higher end ones that won't burn up so quickly as well.

Are you could spend more money and get a couple generic 3" HFC's welded in series, that will quiet it down without causing much restriction as well.

i had considered getting a cherry bomb, i may just try and find something similar to an OE muffler where the baffles are all metal and does not use glasspacks, nothing to deteriorate

i do like the vband idea, almost like a test pipe lol, and the obx unit i have was cheap enough that i could do that

on a minor side note..surprisingly my obx universal unit i bought off of ebay lasted much longer then the magnablow i bought, i feel that had this been the average car i would have never came across an issue again...makes me wonder why they have such a bad rep

heck brian broke his pipe cutters on it

[RX SE7EN]

I'm positive you'll still have drone even with a straight pipe.

I know its a different engine and all, but I had test pipes (non resonated pipes that replace stock Cats) and outside the car it was like you say, loud, super raspy. And inside the car, awful drone from 2k-5k rpm.

My car has a borla resonator, (what PFS used to use on all their builds), and its been on there since 2004, still works fine today.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by vex

For the OMP you do need an input signal for position to have it work, however on the Haltech when running an ICV, it does not require the use of another input (as other sensors dictate the need and what not of the valve)--thus it stands to reason that if you can find a means of using the stepper motor without the extra need of an input you could mimic the same stepper motor controls with a predetermined startup routine.

Doesn't that get kinda dangerous?

I haven't researched this in detail, so there are a few assumptions...

I know it's a 4-position valve, so it's a 4-pole stepper motor.
Does it have limiters on min (1) and max (4)?
If it has limiters, then it's a little bit safer...
If it doesn't, then you can easily jump from min to max with one errant signal.

There has to be a reason why Mazda went with a feedback signal system.

You would think that the OMP system is important enough to have this feedback system functional.
It does throw a nasty error (which goes into limp-home mode) when triggered.


-Ted

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by vex

For the OMP you do need an input signal for position to have it work, however on the Haltech when running an ICV, it does not require the use of another input (as other sensors dictate the need and what not of the valve)--thus it stands to reason that if you can find a means of using the stepper motor without the extra need of an input you could mimic the same stepper motor controls with a predetermined startup routine.

(I was referencing the AAS startup routine in the original post)

The renni OMP, from what I understand is not a feedback unit, but all the S5+ OMP's are feedback, as are every DBW that I know of. Redundancy on throttle would be a good thing.

Originally Posted by one320fc

I can't my bitch of an ex-wife is taking me back to court to take the kids from me..Figured she would learn after the first two attempts didnt work so paying for lawyer, new house, and putting what little money I have into the LE. I will just have to settle for DGRR 2012!

That sucks man, sorry to hear it. If you can swing the time off.... enough people will probably front you everything but the reg fee..... We did that witha few guys last year.

Originally Posted by muibubbles

your thread has so much writing.... i wish there were more pictures =(

There's plenty of pics, but there's also even more derailing attemps

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by helghast7

well you will definetly be done before me when it comes to that type of upgrade, i keep getting hit with these large bills, i need to get more stabilized again before i can really start buying stuff, i have a feeling my diff is going to sit at daves at least a month before i can go get it

Yup yup, been there.... almost getting there now. What I do is keep my whore money seperate for my toys, salary pays the bills and doing it that way, I never seem to go backwards. I moved $1500 last night to cover the check for the BNR's, so no I need to go into the safe, get the cash, and deposit it back into savings. I may float a month or two becuase a few small things popped up, but the larger stuff was budgeted through my whore money.

Originally Posted by helghast7

as for the switches, thats next on my todo list, first i need to finish buttoning up this bike so i can deliver it already, once thats done im gonna dive into the basement and locate them and bring the cup holder idea for you at the same time

Cool thanks man. I'm leaving for CA soon, as in the next few days, soooooo are you planning on swinging down this way?

Originally Posted by helghast7

btw, i just remembered, whats a good company to get a resonator from because i blew out the one we welded in, so that rules out magnaflow and obx, i was thinking borla but there just so pricey im not sure its worth it

Magnaflow! Been using nothing but magnaflow on my car for 3 years and still sounds great. I hate Borla, they can blow me. I've never had anything Borla fit right, or last. Hell, even on my Jeeps I went with the Borla becuase it was a million mile warranty, and both Borla systems that I put on the car rotted out and broke. I can't decide if I want to swap out the cans for new FREE ones..... (becuase they are actually stepping up, at least they said they would) or spend the coin on 2 V-band sets and a Magnaflow can.

Originally Posted by helghast7

i was also thinking about a straight pipe because i dont care how loud the car is, as long as it doesnt resonate inside...bbbbuuuutttt rotaries ive heard without some sort of resonator tend to have a very metallic hollow twang to them, whereas im more fond of my deeper roar...idk

Originally Posted by RX SE7EN

^ you absolutely want some sort of resonator. Don't get me wrong, I loooovve me the sound of a rotary, they really rev my engine (shameless anchorman plug haha). But with a 3" exhaust, no cat, and just a straight through muffler at the end, they are aweful sounding on the street, highway trips become painful, and its annoying around town. I'd get a nice long resonator, even some of the higher end cherry bomb, 3" by 18" will give it a nice sound. The standard glasspack won't last long, but if you weld on vbands, making it easy to change out, they are cheap enough to replace. You can get higher end ones that won't burn up so quickly as well.

Are you could spend more money and get a couple generic 3" HFC's welded in series, that will quiet it down without causing much restriction as well.

You are so right about needing SOMETHING to quite it down. Turbo's work as a decent muffler... but I can tell you with my Magnaflow midpipe/splitter and two smaller magnaflow cans, the car is quite enough on the highway to have a conversation..... with the windows/sunroof closed which is the opposite of how I roll..... so there's usually no conversations except the occasional...HOLD ON!!!! It'll be interesting having Glenn in the car for 14 hrs rolling down to Deals.... By the way, Collin Dave and Benny.... keep an eye out for my Caravan Thread to pop up in the DGRR section. We're hammering out some details right now but it'll be a Thursday morning caravan down which you may want to get in on.

Originally Posted by helghast7

i agree with you to an extent, my biggest problem at the moment is that when you blow out a resonator it has a tendency to resonate outwards instead if inwards so the massive amount of droning that occurs in the cabin is almost ear splitting, whereas a straight through would be crazy loud outside, but close the windows and all is well

my personal preference to a resonator is the deeper tone it provides, our biggest trouble is we(turbo) create so much heat and pressure among other things that the average resonator cant withstand it for long..which blows



i had considered getting a cherry bomb, i may just try and find something similar to an OE muffler where the baffles are all metal and does not use glasspacks, nothing to deteriorate

Yeah, Magnaflow

Originally Posted by helghast7

i do like the vband idea, almost like a test pipe lol, and the obx unit i have was cheap enough that i could do that

V-bands are awesome. With a 7/16 and a 12mm racheting wrench, I can drop the entire exhaust (minus the DP) in 5 minutes..... literally.

Originally Posted by helghast7

on a minor side note..surprisingly my obx universal unit i bought off of ebay lasted much longer then the magnablow i bought, i feel that had this been the average car i would have never came across an issue again...makes me wonder why they have such a bad rep

I don't understand what happened to your magnaflow.... there's no reason for that thing to not last long especially if it was where we put that obx thing. Did you have a sticking injector? running stupid rich? I/m thinking some fuel pooled there and blew the thing out where the obx was put on a tuned car and lasted much longer by default. I've got 15k on my magnaflows and they sound great, so I think the internals are in great shape, but they didn't handle the salt on the rd trip very well. That's my only gripe about them, they need to use a better quality stainless.

Originally Posted by helghast7

heck brian broke his pipe cutters on it

Yeah, I think Alex had something to do with that.... guy was attempting to build his exhaust at the same time and I think he trashed them on his before we got to yours. When he got them, they cut through SS like butter, I did the SS exhaust on the Landi a few weekds before and they were just ripping through the 2.5" SS exhaust bends with ease. When I got them back to do yours, they had a hard time cutting through the chrome lining...

Originally Posted by RX SE7EN

I'm positive you'll still have drone even with a straight pipe.

I know its a different engine and all, but I had test pipes (non resonated pipes that replace stock Cats) and outside the car it was like you say, loud, super raspy. And inside the car, awful drone from 2k-5k rpm.

Sound familiar?

Originally Posted by RX SE7EN

My car has a borla resonator, (what PFS used to use on all their builds), and its been on there since 2004, still works fine today.

That surprises me. I didn't like the supports on the 3 complete Borla systems that I bought, did PFS build that themselves using a generic Borla can? My MoTeC buddy up in Mystic bought a Borla system for his Vette, he said the fitment was so abysmal that he paid the shipping out of pocket to return it and buy a magnaflow system that apparently fit like a condom.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by RETed

Doesn't that get kinda dangerous?

I haven't researched this in detail, so there are a few assumptions...

I know it's a 4-position valve, so it's a 4-pole stepper motor.
Does it have limiters on min (1) and max (4)?
If it has limiters, then it's a little bit safer...
If it doesn't, then you can easily jump from min to max with one errant signal.

There has to be a reason why Mazda went with a feedback signal system.

You would think that the OMP system is important enough to have this feedback system functional.
It does throw a nasty error (which goes into limp-home mode) when triggered.


-Ted

From my understanding, that's EXACTELY why the DBW systems have the safety of a redundant TPS in there... to prohibit thing like that from happening.

Also, from my understanding the OMP on the Renni doesn't have a feedback, while the S5+ units do, again, for that reason of it being rather important. Not quite sure why Mazda changed it for the Renni, but I'm sure they have some type of safety involved with it... I agree with ya, it would be foolish not to,

[RX SE7EN]

I'm not 100% sure, but I think PFS used to use a generic borla resonator in the midpipe (like mine is) when they did major upgrades (so supports wouldn't be a problem in this case). Not 100% sure though, I guess it could have been a customer request back when my car was built the first time by the previous owner. I've seen the borla on a couple other PFS cars, not sure if they still do it if they ever did.

My exhaust system is: 3" greddy T78 kit downpipe, midpipe with borla resonator (assuming a PFS standard), and HKS system back from there. I still wish it was a little more toned down. I've been thinking about trying to squeeze the largest magnaflow muffler that will fit in where the Borla is.

[TitaniumTT]

The other option is to get the cheapest 3" exhaust that you can find (just for the piping being already mandrel bent and fit) and we'll cut out the muffler and add the biggest Magnaflow muffler that we can find. I'm up for that

[vex]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

The renni OMP, from what I understand is not a feedback unit, but all the S5+ OMP's are feedback, as are every DBW that I know of. Redundancy on throttle would be a good thing.

Only if you're too much of a pussy to go full throttle everywhere.

[helghast7]

Well I guess I can try another magnaflow can to replace the obx one, worst case I blow it out again and then I put a horse head in your bed