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Old 07-15-2010, 09:25 PM   #481
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Originally Posted by Nismo View Post
Seriously, I went from my 250ish whp Stock Turbo FC, and no I am driving a 100% Stock N/A FC, even has 3 Cats, and an Air pump, it's so god damn lethargic, at least it handles well, and stops awesome, can't wait to install the 929 Booster and Master!
Yeah, I'm not going to be too trilled with the 'vert until I get the boost under the hood. Oh well, like you said, it will handle decent and stop reasonably well.

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Originally Posted by project86 View Post
We'll see how you feel about that statement when my "real" project is done
It'll still suck, just suck alot more air than most other engines and thus make more power

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Originally Posted by David Jerome View Post
Helghast7, The supercharged sound is likely one of the two following issues. 1. A loose clamp on one of the couplers or 2. a loose connection on the y-pipe to turbos connection pointes. The metal gaskets will make a whining/whistling sound and the two reasons above will answer why you are not seeing boost. I have seen the factory IC pipes make this same noise when they have a tiny whole but usually it is one of hte issues above.
He's got something going fubar in his rear end. I have heard that sound before and it is pretty messed up. My personal favorite is the cat meow when shifting in a little boost when you reverse some vac lines and the turbo back-spins..... that one is awesome.

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Originally Posted by Nismo View Post
Why? Next year it's going to have a 13B-RE nestled in it's bosom, I have a REVII exhaust I would love ton install but the cat back is 3" and the cat is not... I'm just enjoying it, get back to basics, Maybe do a few track days, and be ready for next year when it will be retarded!
What are you running for a turbo/ecu in that silly little toy of yours?

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Originally Posted by helghast7 View Post
i no what the noise is, we put the car on the lift for a bit

although i have been having issues with my eifini 7 pipe and vaccum caps blowing off under pressure, i have yet to have any couplers on my new setup blow off, and as stated, i have the eifini y pipe, which doesnt have connections like the usdm one

but the cap issue was fixed recently thanks to brian,

the noise is actually my differential...i must have blown it doing a highway pull, and its been slowly getting worse to the point were its louder then my exhaust... and to those that have heard my car, know thats a challenge in itself
Yeah it is......... Sounds good though, just loud

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Originally Posted by helghast7 View Post
and because of that im going to put the car to sleep for the year soon, i need a break from the repairs, its just not fun right now because of it
Are you fucking kidding me man?!?!??! Seriously????? Pull the diff and see what the issue is. It could be a simple fix and if not, snatch another diff and enjoy it for the rest of the summer.... I mean damn, I have yet to enjoy my car and I'm still plugging away on her. There's at least 5 months of good driving weather left and the best 2 are yet to come! I hope to have the FC up and ready for the best weather in Oct/Nov and a few days in Dec Ya know, just in time to take it apart again






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I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
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It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

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Old 07-15-2010, 09:40 PM   #482
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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post

What are you running for a turbo/ecu in that silly little toy of yours?


Haltech E6X Not working from now til October, so I can't afford a new one, but It will happen eventually!
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Old 07-15-2010, 10:33 PM   #483
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Make a sexy harness harness with some mil-spec connectors on the firewall so that when you upgrade all you need to do is build from the ECU to the firewall. I know someone with all the tooling to make that happen
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DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
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Old 07-15-2010, 11:06 PM   #484
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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
Make a sexy harness harness with some mil-spec connectors on the firewall so that when you upgrade all you need to do is build from the ECU to the firewall. I know someone with all the tooling to make that happen
Well move over, OLD MAN, because the new generation........... Is trying to see what you're doing so I can learn!
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Old 07-16-2010, 03:04 AM   #485
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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
Are you fucking kidding me man?!?!??! Seriously????? Pull the diff and see what the issue is. It could be a simple fix and if not, snatch another diff and enjoy it for the rest of the summer.... I mean damn, I have yet to enjoy my car and I'm still plugging away on her. There's at least 5 months of good driving weather left and the best 2 are yet to come! I hope to have the FC up and ready for the best weather in Oct/Nov and a few days in Dec Ya know, just in time to take it apart again
i just cant do it right now, dont have the funds for anything, because if i pull it(which i was intending on doing anyways) i want to do things right, which means:

rebuild it, if possible, replace the bushings with poly ones from pettit(loves me some poly mounts)

i wana ReRemove the trans and put my unit back in because its in better condition, BUT i need new throwout and pilot bearings, i wana buy the puller/installer for that fucking pilot bearing because i hate doing it the other way

i just dont have the cash for it, its too much breaking all at once

ive had the car tuned for like 3 weeks now and havent been able to keep it running properly for over 3 days straight

secondaries, diff, trans, y-pipe

plus i really have to change the windshield since the cracks are spreading, and now i noticed the end tanks on the spoiler are starting to separate like everyone else that has my wing

if you looked at my bank account you would understand

but like i said before, i dont mind that shit breaks, you no it gives me something to do

whats killing me is that its happening all at once

so i decided to repair the fc since i have all the parts already, get her back up and running, and rotate my fd back into hybernation, back up on jackstands she goes, pull the diff out take it to work and see whats inside
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Old 07-16-2010, 05:18 PM   #486
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Originally Posted by EJayCe996 View Post
Well move over, OLD MAN, because the new generation........... Is trying to see what you're doing so I can learn!
Why you snot nosed, wet behind the ear little motherfu...... ok come here and check it out

Quote:
Originally Posted by helghast7 View Post
i just cant do it right now, dont have the funds for anything, because if i pull it(which i was intending on doing anyways) i want to do things right, which means:

rebuild it, if possible, replace the bushings with poly ones from pettit(loves me some poly mounts)
I don't know how expensive the poly bushings are but the bearings aren't all that expensive at all. You'd be surprised...... at least for the FC

yeah just cheched..... ~$200

Quote:
Originally Posted by helghast7 View Post
i wana ReRemove the trans and put my unit back in because its in better condition, BUT i need new throwout and pilot bearings, i wana buy the puller/installer for that fucking pilot bearing because i hate doing it the other way
Pilot & T/O bearing are like $70. The removal tool can be had for $25 at auto bone and 5 minutes with a grinder and you're all set

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Originally Posted by helghast7 View Post
i just dont have the cash for it, its too much breaking all at once

ive had the car tuned for like 3 weeks now and havent been able to keep it running properly for over 3 days straight

secondaries, diff, trans, y-pipe

plus i really have to change the windshield since the cracks are spreading, and now i noticed the end tanks on the spoiler are starting to separate like everyone else that has my wing

if you looked at my bank account you would understand
Yeah, that's the problem with modding things..... we talked about it the last time you were here.

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Originally Posted by helghast7 View Post
but like i said before, i dont mind that shit breaks, you no it gives me something to do

whats killing me is that its happening all at once

so i decided to repair the fc since i have all the parts already, get her back up and running, and rotate my fd back into hybernation, back up on jackstands she goes, pull the diff out take it to work and see whats inside
I think it's wise to have something reliable becuase just like you're going through, when shit breaks it's nice to just be able to say, fuck it, not now and get back into the DD and not worry about it. but when it's your DD and you need to get to work the next morning it just adds a level of stress that's completely not necessary and detracts from the whole hobby aspect of it. Not to mention you're a fricken ASE tech, you deal with broken shit all the time and then you get to go home and HAVE to deal with it if you want to get to work the next day. I was in a very similar situation when i was younger and I didn't do anything but maintenance to the FC for YEARS becuase of it. One of the reasons that I'm hesitant to get into it full time. Shoe makers shooes man.....
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2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
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2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
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1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
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Old 07-16-2010, 05:55 PM   #487
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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
One of the reasons that I'm hesitant to get into it full time. Shoe makers shooes man.....
That is exactly why you should keep work life diffrent from you hobbies,my dad taught me how to work on my cars since I was old enough to be in the garage but always told me I don't want you doing this for a living. Great advice and I will follow it unless I get hard up for $ and a job.
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Old 07-17-2010, 07:22 AM   #488
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actually, the t/o bearing ranges from 80-100 for the fd pilot-10 seal-10

ive done the autozone thing before and i hate it, it always comes out in pieces, one time it took out everything but the outer case..we spent hours grinding it out so i decided im getting the real one which is like 85

poly mounts are 100, i havent checked on the bearings yet but if there around 200 then im just getting a new/used diff, which a tested perfect condition, under 30k miles diff can be had for 350 shipped

and yea i know what you mean about a DD, ive actually been trying to save for a cheap civic....but the bitch just wont let me save
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Old 07-17-2010, 09:37 AM   #489
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Originally Posted by 2gslse View Post
That is exactly why you should keep work life diffrent from you hobbies,my dad taught me how to work on my cars since I was old enough to be in the garage but always told me I don't want you doing this for a living. Great advice and I will follow it unless I get hard up for $ and a job.
Yeah I hear ya man, I really do. But a big part of me wants to try it again.

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Originally Posted by helghast7 View Post
actually, the t/o bearing ranges from 80-100 for the fd pilot-10 seal-10

ive done the autozone thing before and i hate it, it always comes out in pieces, one time it took out everything but the outer case..we spent hours grinding it out so i decided im getting the real one which is like 85
I checked MT before I posted those prices, not sure if you have a MC account.

I refuse to buy anything internal from autobone anymore. Hell, the last T/O bearing that I bought was strait from Mazda and it came out in pieces. Almost got me stuck in jersey too

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Originally Posted by helghast7 View Post
poly mounts are 100, i havent checked on the bearings yet but if there around 200 then im just getting a new/used diff, which a tested perfect condition, under 30k miles diff can be had for 350 shipped
That's a REALLY tough call. Yeah it's low mileage, yeah it should be fine, but still, you don't know until you crack it open. In 5k it could start to whine like a little bitch and then you're back to square 2.... 2 being now you have two diffs and you can rebuild one and then just swap it out.

I dunno, tough call. I bought an used S4 TII diff for $150 just so I could have a back-up for my FC in case I REALLY don't dig the 4.3 gears I'm not totally shit out of luck, and also so I have one kicking around if I ever decide to turbo the 'vert. Which I would still like to do.

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Originally Posted by helghast7 View Post
and yea i know what you mean about a DD, ive actually been trying to save for a cheap civic....but the bitch just wont let me save
Pedal your ass around town... literally and figurativaly. Side jobs are fantabulous. Luckily I have 4 days off in a row so I had no problem working both my days off. THe amount of cash I can make on one day off will net me in cash what my weekly net is. So by taking on a full day of side jobs, I effectively double my salary. Nearly tripled it this week. Work Week starts on Sat, ends on Friday, so I had Thurs & friday off from last week, and Sat sun off from this week. Shitty thing is now I'll be on for 10 days strait until the end of the next cycle.

BTW - how do I get in touch with Abdul about those seats? Gonna spend some time working the FC today, figure out what the fuck is wrong with the fuel system (again ) Then it's deep into the 'vert tomorrow. Picking up my buddies new truck from Dave on Thurs so I'll be able to swing by soon and grab all that stuff and then off to LI for that Atihun hood I scored.
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DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-

Last edited by TitaniumTT; 07-17-2010 at 09:40 AM..
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Old 07-17-2010, 12:10 PM   #490
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Why buy that hood when you basically built your own??? Is there a vert build thread I'm not aware of


BTW... I'd like to jump up to KDR at some point in late July or early August for some roller time, not sure what would work best for you, but weekends are all I've got!




Oh... and big win on the side job conversation... if anybody is able and willing, its a great way to earn extra $$$.. my car habit is almost 100% supported by side work and I just landed a crap ton of it after leaving my last employer... should get the FC project moving again....
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Old 07-17-2010, 05:22 PM   #491
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Originally Posted by WE3RX7 View Post
Why buy that hood when you basically built your own??? Is there a vert build thread I'm not aware of
There is a 'vert, but no build thread as of yet. Actually starting to tear the car apart tomorrow if I can get this FC at least figured out today. Tidying up a bunch of wiring now to make the testing a TON easier, and also facilitate fuel pressure relief and prime etc etc etc.

I was going to build another hood, but looking at the amount of time that went into the first one, well, it doesn't make sense when you figure out what I paid, or will pay for this one. Better to spend my time working then working on the hood. In other words, I spent WAY more than 4 hours building, and that's about what I would have to work to pay off this hood......... if that makes sense.


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Originally Posted by WE3RX7 View Post
BTW... I'd like to jump up to KDR at some point in late July or early August for some roller time, not sure what would work best for you, but weekends are all I've got!
If w/e's are all you've got, set something up soon. Spoke with Dave a few days ago and he;s booked solid through 7/26. So pick a w/e and I'll do my best to get it off. I'll actually hit you up with some dates when there are local auto-x's/track days if ya wanna stay up and represent




Quote:
Originally Posted by WE3RX7 View Post
Oh... and big win on the side job conversation... if anybody is able and willing, its a great way to earn extra $$$.. my car habit is almost 100% supported by side work and I just landed a crap ton of it after leaving my last employer... should get the FC project moving again....
Yup, been there, done that.... don't have to worry about it now though Now I'm just greddy
__________________
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DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 07-17-2010, 09:14 PM   #492
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T.... you are really going to hate me for posting this, but I got a new toy for you to play with!

It's called the ISIS chassis wiring system.

http://www.isispower.com/

For 900 bones, this seems like the best idea ever! I am a volvo tech, and this system is really simmilar to the way the volvo electric system is laid out, yet a LOT simpler because of the lack in relays, and a ton of other shit.

PS: I'm hoping I didn't just open pandora's box....
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Old 07-18-2010, 02:22 AM   #493
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yea i do the occasional side job from time to time, though its not enough support the bitch...

and what has 4.30 gears? fd comes out the box with 4.10s unless you have been getting automatic diffs

come to think of it im almost positive every manual trans diff for rexes have 4.10s

and idk man, its just shit all over the place....first step im doing is getting the fc back up, after that the bitch goes back up on stands to pull my diff and bring it to work to see whats going on in there

after that its anyones guess, and im not really worried about it right now, im still plenty young ive got all the time in the world to work on it and drive it, i wana do other things

for me the biggest thing was owning one, im definetly not selling her, but if she stays up on stands for a year, hell even 2 years it would be fine with me because shes still mine

like ive said before, unlike most people i know that own one, i never bought it for the power, first time i ever saw one it was off, saw it when i was walking home from school parked on the street, was red with white wheels, the sexiest car ive ever seen, shitted on everything on the block, and from that point i knew i had to have one, and now i do..hell the guys i saw sold it, so im still the only one in my area. and its a nice feeling knowing how exclusive you are, ive got like lambo status lmao

oh just pm me ill give you his cell number, hes not very good at picking up, but if you cant get a hold of him let me know ill give him a couple rings
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Old 07-18-2010, 02:14 PM   #494
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yea i do the occasional side job from time to time, though its not enough support the bitch...

and what has 4.30 gears? fd comes out the box with 4.10s unless you have been getting automatic diffs

come to think of it im almost positive every manual trans diff for rexes have 4.10s
Side jobs are great, I've got about a dozen recurring ones

I bought a set of 4.30's off a forum member who originally got them from Mazdacomp.... thanks again man if you'r reading this.

The GTUs had a 4.3 I believe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by helghast7 View Post
and idk man, its just shit all over the place....first step im doing is getting the fc back up, after that the bitch goes back up on stands to pull my diff and bring it to work to see whats going on in there

after that its anyones guess, and im not really worried about it right now, im still plenty young ive got all the time in the world to work on it and drive it, i wana do other things
Yeah I hear ya, I agree that the first thing to do is get the FC back up and running again. I've got to get out to you and pick that stuff up. I'm heading out into the shop now to clean up and start yanking the engine out of the 'vert.

Quote:
Originally Posted by helghast7 View Post
oh just pm me ill give you his cell number, hes not very good at picking up, but if you cant get a hold of him let me know ill give him a couple rings
Cool, thanks man
__________________
-The Angry Stig-
DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


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It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
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Old 07-18-2010, 03:14 PM   #495
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Default The super mega ultra extreme hella ubber fuel system testing

Not really all that complicated really, and not the most accurate but at least now I definately know what the fuck is going on with the ole' FC. Here's what I did yesterday

I started off by permanently mounting all the relays in the trunk and building a brace that fills the void behind the drivers side wheel where the harness travels. In here I installed two SPDT switches underneath some safety covers. The idea being that the common terminal runs to terminal 86 on the fuel pump relays. The top terminal (which is contacted when the covers are closed) is connected to the turn-on from the MoTeC and the bottom terminal is connected to an ign hot source. The thought being that the pumps can be completely manipulated with the engine off and the engine not running. Or the engine running to de-pressurize the lines, drain the surge tank etc etc etc...... So after that was done and all tidy I moved on to actually testing the pumps.

While I admit this isn't the most effective way to do this, it did give some pretty valuable insight as to what was actually going on. When I wired up the fuel pumps I added an extra hot/grnd that ran outside the cell so that I can see exactely what voltage the pumps where seeing when running. Pretty trick I thought. So I went to RS and bought a second set of test leads that I added some metri-pack connectors to so everything plugged in and I didn't have to tape shit together or hold test leads. So with that in place I moved onto th reconfiging the fuel cell.

The first thought that Dave had outside bad voltage was that the surge tank wasn't getting enough fuel into the surge tank. I was pretty convinced when the thing lean surged on me and pressure went to almost nothing on the drive home. On the return from the surge tank to the main cell I put in a length of clear hose so I could visually see the fuel moving around. It took a while as I'm pretty sure the surge tank was dry but within a few seconds the clear line purged a few bubbles and then was solid fuel with the engine running. Cool, so the surge tank is getting filled, cross that off.



Next I disconnected the feed into the surge tank off the Denso and ran it to an external reg set for ~43psi and dumping right into my 5 gal Jerry can.



I turned on the denso pump and timed how long it took to fill the 5 gallon jerry. ou can see in one of the pics the amount of V it's getting and the voltage drop. About 12.5 on the dash (VERY close to what the battery sees) and 12.34 on the multimeter. Bryan from BNR confirmed my numbers @ 292lph.... fucking sweet! Ok, so lets cross that off becuase that pump will never really see any pressure so the flow will be more than enough. Alright, now lets test the bosch pump.

I reconnected the feed from the Denso to the surge tank, but left the clear hose installed. I did this becuase there is only 5 qt's in the surge tank, and I'm looking to fill 5 gallons, so the Denso needs to be running as well. The fuel from the regulator on the back of the engine will be dumped into the 5 gallon jerry just so this is basically 100% flow out of the surge tank, with no return, so I wanted to make sure that the Denso would definately keep up.




I disconnected the return from the regulator and hooked that line up to the dump into the 5 gal jerry and capped the return line on the firewall. The reason for capping it was becuase the Denso would fill the surge tank, and then I'm sure there will be a little pressure and that will push up the return line and spew all over the bay, so that fucker got capped. I fired up both pumps and started the clock.. Voltage at the Bosch pump was less, around 11.7 and the dash saw 12.2 12.3V Sadly the mighty 044 put out a lathargic 165 lph at 59psi rail pressure..... FAIL. A far cry from the 300lph it claims and 200 lph @ 70 psi and 12V.



Just to satisfy everything that needed to be satisfied I stuffed a mechanical gauge in before the filter and turned the pumps back on. I saw over 70psi before the filter and some pretty nasty fluctuations, as in betweel 60 and 80 psi. The gauge was boucing all over the place. I swapped the filter for a BRAND new one adn repeated the test. The time dropped by a whopping 3 seconds and the psi dropped a few psi as well Average seemed to be about high 60's now maybe around 70. So the filter isn't really to blame for all of this... I think the pump really is shit. It's probably just this pump though, not all Boschs.

So, thoughts opinions on what the next step is? I'm not convinced that the Bosch pump is going to be the best for me. I'm really leaning towards a second Denso pump in the surge tank. 292lph is defintately going to be enough especially if I drop the base pressure.

If it's still not enough I could bump the voltage. Something that I'm not opposed to doing via a Kenne Bell BAP but without the boost sensor. I would rather the voltage be constant and not varying all over the place becuase there will be a time delay, or so I'm convinced of. I'd rather set it to 14V and just leave it there at all times.

So, what is hands down the best intank QUIET fuel pump out there. People sweat by the A'pexi BNR32 but that sells for about $400, I could buy the BAP and a Denso pump for that price.
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__________________
-The Angry Stig-
DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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