would like info on my FC build

[Turbo vw]

Originally Posted by phoenix7

I asked if it was an option and I have yet to experience the problem you're mentioning about lag. Ever. Maybe if you slap on a GT35 or something bigger.

Then why are you trying to waste money on big brake kits and stuff you don't need or EVEN KNOW it NEEDS?

cool. NA is just as fun.


FIXED your posts but DAMN! I can't do it again.


WTF is lematachens??????????????

ok sorry about the spelling but i ment limitations


iv had enuf cars in my life turo supercharged and NA what i want is a nice quic throtle respons that you dont really git with a turbo


i posted it up that i was looking for some info right know i would like to git one for the car trust me ill over drive those brakes the first time up highway 421 but no im not in a hurry for that the motor is the main thank im just looking for info

[Phoenix7]

it hurts.

Go out and drive the 7 first. GO find it's limitations and THEN spend money. You're doing it backwards.

[Turbo vw]

Originally Posted by phoenix7

it hurts.

Go out and drive the 7 first. GO find it's limitations and THEN spend money. You're doing it backwards.

haha 7 dont even tern over at the moment just shut off one day lol and wont tern over at all (i can tern it over by hand but starter ant doin shit + the lematachens on that motor would be very low clutch is shot and the motor had no power befor it shut off that day so lol)

[classicauto]

Thats my point though, new bearings in a rotary really aren't needed unless they're trash. New bearings are more likely to spin and cause damage then old (but still useable) bearings for a number of reasons. One being clearances are so so so super important on new bearing engines its not even funny. The only new bearing engine I've had personal experience with had damaged bearings when I tore it down after blowing it up.........................every original bearing (that was useable) engine I've had has been fine however.

You should also know, if you're using an RX-8 e-shaft that there's a small (half thou?) taper on the front main. If you don't use an RX-8 bearing there you'll spin those fancy race bitches off in a hurry.

[djmtsu]

Listen to the guys in here.

-The engine, you can go a whole lotta ways. Build it for mid level power, and long life. HP is not what its all about, no matter what some people say.

-The brakes. I think you will find that the stock brakes on FC's are pretty damn GREAT, that is why they continued to use the same calipers on FD's. In all honesty, nobody really NEEDS 'big brakes'. There is no point in arguing it here, that is just the way it is.

-The rest of the car, do whatever makes you happy (which means, we need to approve as well). If I see a big ol' wing, or sleepy eyes, I just might cry.

[Phoenix7]

I don't cry, I black out and go postal. in the end, we can only recommend things we think are important. If he wants to continue to do things his way then great. As long as he shares his work and final product I'm happy.

[Turbo vw]

im not going to go do any thang like a big ugly ass fast and the fouries wing lol im not a ricer lol im leavin the stock mazda wing on the car it will most likly be receving a set of 17" koing wheels im probly going to leav the koing stickers on the doors who knows whats under thim and of course its going to be lowerd when i start giting into suspension stuff and probly tent the windows and thats about it every thang else is going to be drive tran and suspension

[djmtsu]

You don't want Koenig wheels if you are looking for an improvement over stock. They design their wheels to fit the Honda crowd.

FYI- I stepped down from 17" wheels to the factory BBS convertible wheels (with wider rubber of course) and the improvement is amazing. I shaved about 8 lbs of rotating mass from each corner of the car.

[Turbo vw]

Originally Posted by djmtsu

You don't want Koenig wheels if you are looking for an improvement over stock. They design their wheels to fit the Honda crowd.

FYI- I stepped down from 17" wheels to the factory BBS convertible wheels (with wider rubber of course) and the improvement is amazing. I shaved about 8 lbs of rotating mass from each corner of the car.

i have a set of 17" koing wheels that i have ran on every thang from DSM's 240's, 300zx, explorer...... and the car has this koing sticker that who knows how long thay have been on the car and well dosent look to bad but afrade ifi go trying to remove it who knows whats under it so i figer use those tell i decided to paint it or git enuf balles to remove those stickers

[Max777]

another double post... sorry.

[Turbo vw]

so hears the question now shuld i git the race barings or shuld i git new ones i know if there shot i will but if there not just stick with the old ones

[Turbo vw]

so if i git a chanch to buy a complet s5 N/A motor would it be worth paying just a litle bit more and using the s5 insted of my s4 short block just wondering

ok so a s5 intake manafold would it be worth porting and polishing it

as for tuning i have somthing in mined but dont know if it will work with a rotary yet tho

[vex]

I know I'm jumping into the discussion a little late (just cause I have a hard time trying to decipher your posts, but... I won't hold it against you), but I was pretty close to the same position you are in now about a year ago. What I decided to do was build the car from the ground up. What you need to decide prior to buying all the parts or even thinking about the parts is how much power do you want to put down to the road. What's your main focus with the car (or as I like to put it, the over arching philosophy)?

For me I wanted my end result to be able to put down anywhere from 400 to 600 hp and still be reliable. This means that I will have to pay alot more than most people to get it done right. Once I set the power level and what the use of the car would be I wanted to make sure I wouldn't have to go back and redo more than I had to later on (unless I wanted to). With that mentality I aimed specifically at the suspension first.

With your suspension, what do you want? You want to be able to brake all that power in a controlled manner. If you're HP goals aren't going to be Huge (read that at anything more than 350+ or so) then your stock brakes are fine. Honestly speaking there is no need to go to a large brake kit for the most part even if you exceed that rule of thumb. Just get new pads that are better than stock.

Next you want to look at your tires. Is your foot print big enough for your power? That's pretty easy to verify, up it. Granted some people run over kill on their cars, but they're in racing--so they need that extra grip.

After that look at your suspension geometry, do you need adjustability? Do you need stiffer spring rates? Do you need camber? Do you have or do you want to eliminate DTSS? These are things you should look at prior to your engine specifics.

Once you have your suspension dialed in it's time to look at your engine. You want high compression rotors from an S5. Why? They're not that big of a compression increase from S4. If the extra .2 of the ratio is worth it, then go for it--just remember that the majority of the horse power increase comes from the VDI, not the compression ratio. Beyond that there are some good things to do while the engine is apart: porting, 3-window bearing, ectera. RX8 eccentric shaft... That's personal preference I presume and I'll leave that input up to the more experienced members on the forum.

Also when considering your engine, what are your end goals with it? Do you want reliable power? Do you want all out fast from it? Are you going to convert it to a 6-port turbo? These are questions that should point you in the right direction with the project and give you a rough understanding of what to expect. What I'm always scared of is that if I do not have my suspension dialed in how am I supposed to control my car in a tough situation? Adding more power to no suspension increases is a dangerous mix to say the least.

Just my two cents though.

[Phoenix7]

Originally Posted by vex

I know I'm jumping into the discussion a little late (just cause I have a hard time trying to decipher your posts, but... I won't hold it against you), but I was pretty close to the same position you are in now about a year ago. What I decided to do was build the car from the ground up. What you need to decide prior to buying all the parts or even thinking about the parts is how much power do you want to put down to the road. What's your main focus with the car (or as I like to put it, the over arching philosophy)?

For me I wanted my end result to be able to put down anywhere from 400 to 600 hp and still be reliable. This means that I will have to pay alot more than most people to get it done right. Once I set the power level and what the use of the car would be I wanted to make sure I wouldn't have to go back and redo more than I had to later on (unless I wanted to). With that mentality I aimed specifically at the suspension first.

With your suspension, what do you want? You want to be able to brake all that power in a controlled manner. If you're HP goals aren't going to be Huge (read that at anything more than 350+ or so) then your stock brakes are fine. Honestly speaking there is no need to go to a large brake kit for the most part even if you exceed that rule of thumb. Just get new pads that are better than stock.

Next you want to look at your tires. Is your foot print big enough for your power? That's pretty easy to verify, up it. Granted some people run over kill on their cars, but they're in racing--so they need that extra grip.

After that look at your suspension geometry, do you need adjustability? Do you need stiffer spring rates? Do you need camber? Do you have or do you want to eliminate DTSS? These are things you should look at prior to your engine specifics.

Once you have your suspension dialed in it's time to look at your engine. You want high compression rotors from an S5. Why? They're not that big of a compression increase from S4. If the extra .2 of the ratio is worth it, then go for it--just remember that the majority of the horse power increase comes from the VDI, not the compression ratio. Beyond that there are some good things to do while the engine is apart: porting, 3-window bearing, ectera. RX8 eccentric shaft... That's personal preference I presume and I'll leave that input up to the more experienced members on the forum.

Also when considering your engine, what are your end goals with it? Do you want reliable power? Do you want all out fast from it? Are you going to convert it to a 6-port turbo? These are questions that should point you in the right direction with the project and give you a rough understanding of what to expect. What I'm always scared of is that if I do not have my suspension dialed in how am I supposed to control my car in a tough situation? Adding more power to no suspension increases is a dangerous mix to say the least.

Just my two cents though.

said nicely. I still need to pick Roen's brain on this too, in due time. he'll hate me.

[djmtsu]

The 300ZX is heavier than an FC (I think), and dedicated track cars don't even use big brakes. Honestly, the only thing a big brake kit will give you (given the same circumstances as the Z car) is lock up will occur sooner.