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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
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03-16-2009, 12:48 PM | #16 |
Pirate
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why not just buy some AN fittings and line and make em yourself?
I dont know about the FC oil cooler, but I saw the FD dual cooler setup use straight hydraulic hose and barb fittings, if i recall fdnewbie was doing a group buy on the dual cooler setup. http://www.racepartsolutions.com/categories.asp?cat=2
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Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! |
03-16-2009, 12:55 PM | #17 | |
RCC Loves Me Not You
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something to think about.
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The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group |
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03-16-2009, 05:40 PM | #18 |
RCC Loves Me Not You
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Well I'm trying to price out how much it will cost for me to make my own using some stainless steel lines but I've hit a snag. I know they're supposed to be -10 but what is the thread pitch on the stock FC oil cooler? Are they 16mm or something else? If they're 16mm I could just buy some RB adapters for 13 each, some -10 stainless steel line, and some -10 AN fittings and be on my way. I'm concerned however about the 90* from the rear iron since it will more than likely be an extremely tight fit.
any thoughts?
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The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group |
03-16-2009, 05:47 PM | #19 |
Pirate
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no, the rear iron is NOT a tight fit. The tight fit on the FC lines is the front lower fitting. You need to get the special 90* fitting for the front. On the back, there is plenty more room.
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Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! |
03-16-2009, 07:43 PM | #20 | |
RCC Loves Me Not You
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The lower input into the oil cooler now can sit below the frame rail. I still need to know about thread pitch and size on the oil cooler side of things.
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The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group |
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03-18-2009, 08:26 PM | #21 |
RCC Loves Me Not You
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Checked thread pitch and such for the oil cooler: They're the same as the rear iron. 18mm x 1.5
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The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group |
03-18-2009, 10:52 PM | #22 |
Pirate
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/\ "the lower oil cooler fitting can now sit below the frame rail".
Well, that's nice and all, but does it need to sit that low? I would be kinda worried, but then at the same time, I'm worried about everything, .
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Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! |
03-18-2009, 11:07 PM | #23 |
RCC Loves Me Not You
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I'd only worry if it were below the tow hitches, but then again if I'm scrapping the tow hitches something is seriously wrong with my car. I also did a mock up today, the Intercooler sits lower than the Oil cooler and it still is flush behind the bumper. I'm a little concerned with the radiator however since its lowest point is below the oil cooler. I'm not sure how I want to remedy it since there's only finite room for me to move it vertically, and I don't really want tohave it at an angle... I'll have to brain storm about it.
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The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group |
05-06-2009, 12:34 PM | #26 |
RCC Loves Me Not You
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stop pussy footing Kevin, just make your own. You know you want to. lol
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The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group |
05-06-2009, 01:06 PM | #27 |
Sigh.....
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That's what I'm saying. Is there a reason to get the SS ones (besides looks) when the stock ones last for 20+ years? Do the stock ones not work well on upgraded or high hp engines?
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1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
05-06-2009, 07:25 PM | #28 | |||||
Test Whore - Admin
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It's also a cost thing. I don't know the recent prices on lines but when I was replacing my blown factory ones, that like Kevin said almost cost me a motor, they were 2-3x the price of the stainless ones through the dealer.
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05-07-2009, 08:14 AM | #29 | ||
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However, if someone (especially a builder) chimes in with experience that the stock lines tend to fail sooner than that, I'll definitely be open to listening.
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1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
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05-07-2009, 11:33 AM | #30 | ||
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I'm not questioning the fact that SS lines are great. I'm not questioning whether or not the stock ones need to be replaced (since we all know they're 15+ year old rubber). My question is are the SS worth it over new rubber lines?
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1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
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