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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
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12-16-2008, 01:53 AM | #17 |
RCC Loves Me Not You
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[QUOTE=WE3RX7;63559]Keep in mind guys - as it always in when premixing anything (cars, bikes, lawnmowers, etc) you add the oil to the tank FIRST and then add the gas... otherwise it won't mix evenly. You use the pressure from the gas pump to slosh the oil around and mix properly.
I add my pre-mix last. My theory is, the fuel return will circulate the mixture. I use Johnsons-Evinrude from Wal-Mart.
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1993 Yamaha GTS1000 1992 Celica Turbo AllTrac 1987 RX7 Sport 1979 Yamaha G1, KM24 powered 1975 Dolmar KMS4 |
12-16-2008, 11:03 AM | #18 |
crash auto?fix auto
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Bear in mind that yep, the fuel system will circulate and mix the fuel/oil..........EVENTUALLY. But what about all the oil left in the filler tube? Its a corrogated tube (in sections) with lots of ribs to hold oil. When you're adding .5 liter's to a tank of fuel, and 1/3 of it stays in the filler hose is it ideal?
I add the oil first, always have in anything I premix fuel for. If you've done it the opposite way in a gas can, you'd see why. Also, I use amsoil with TCW-3 but will use anything I come across with TCW-3 if I'm in need somewhere away from home. |
12-16-2008, 11:54 AM | #19 |
RCC Addict
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^^ Exactly, you got to it before me,lol.
Adding the oil last and relying on the return system isn't the best circulation method for a few reasons. Big one as classicauto mentions is because of the filler neck design. The other is you won't get proper mixing due to the baffle design in the tank. Not to mention, for anybody running only Premix and not using the OMP with it, that time it takes to mix what was in the baffle near the pickup may result in pulling in fuel w/ no oil at all and if your on the track at 5K+ RPM and pulling in fuel that hasnt been fully mixed yet, your causing damage, ableit slowly to your engine. The best solution really is to premix in the can and then add to your tank, but thats a luxury many of us dont have, so at least put the oil in first and let it slosh around a bit. I even go as far as rocking my car around a bit before driving when filling up from an empty tank, just to make sure it all gets into the baffles appropriately. |
12-16-2008, 01:19 PM | #21 |
Rotary Fan in Training
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If you are trying to knock me, let me tell you this.
"TC-W3® has demonstrated the necessary lubrication performance quality needed for these more demanding cylinder/engine conditions." It says nothing of cleaning power |
12-16-2008, 03:30 PM | #22 |
Sigh.....
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I wasn't trying to knock you or anyone. Can you provide me your information on the differences between Amsoil, Idemitsu, and the cheap stuff?
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1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
12-16-2008, 05:16 PM | #23 |
Rotary Fanatic
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Also, I think the car felt better when I premixed with Marvel Mystery Oil but I've read there are drawbacks to that mixture as well. Since then, I've been reluctant to premix with it.
I find it amusing that we rotary people will try putting anything in their engine, ranging from gas to random premix oils to ATF... |
12-17-2008, 02:37 AM | #24 |
RCC Loves Me Not You
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Anyone using the Rotary Aviation OMP adapter? I'm going to buy it eventually. There is only one reason I want to use this set-up, pre-mixing gets annoying after a while. I'm going to use the cold start assist tank as my reservoir.
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1993 Yamaha GTS1000 1992 Celica Turbo AllTrac 1987 RX7 Sport 1979 Yamaha G1, KM24 powered 1975 Dolmar KMS4 |
12-17-2008, 08:27 AM | #25 |
Home-brew Rotary
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12-17-2008, 02:11 PM | #27 | |
Rotary Fan in Training
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Quote:
What I can tell you is that it really comes down to the cleaning chemicals in the fancy oils that make the real difference. I mean sure, I bet they are better lubricants...but obviously not required. My buddy ran Amsoir premix and after two tanks visibly saw the rotors almost clean as when he put them in as opposed to two tankfuls of cheap stuff earlier where they were coated in carbon. When I hunted last the only big difference between Idemitsu and Amsoil was their price and cleaning capabilities. Amsoil is the most expensive but cleans the best. |
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12-17-2008, 02:16 PM | #28 | |
Sigh.....
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Quote:
__________________
1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
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12-17-2008, 02:42 PM | #30 |
Sigh.....
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I'm already running used housings and rotors... not much point.
__________________
1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |