Not Starting, not flooded (maybe)

[JL1RX7]

Possible, but usually that's lower on the block. Either the injectors are clogged and the OMP kept pumping or the SSV did something. But around the coils no oil lines are close. Fill tube and oil filter are further back.

[RotaryBC]

Good!?

...OMP...SSV...???

I want to find it in the manuals easier.

There was fresh oil in the throttle body and the air box.

Off to HF for gloves and buckets for cleaning!!

[JL1RX7]

Oil metering pump, secondary shutter valve.

Not really good, as in why and how did it get there. Was someone an idiot and spill oil everywhere? Or something else. Hopefully just an idiot.

[RotaryBC]

Removed the coils, wires and plugs

Plugs:
Top Front
Lower Front

Top Rear
Lower Rear

Wires To:
Top Front
Lower Front

Top Rear
Lower Rear

Coils tested good

Secondary shutter valve...are you kidding me?

The tech manual starts at “Remove the front bumper”

I thought it was bad when it said “Drain the coolant”

Did see the three valves...the bottom one had oil on it

Tell me what you think about the plugs

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

I'd say pull the plugs to see if they're damp. You can crank the engine with the plugs out and, I believe, the EGI fuse removed to deflood the engine. Or, I'm fairly certain if you just put the gas pedal ALL the way down and crank it should also cut the fuel. Doing that a few times should clear out any flooding.

Not true. Most of the time with questionable plugs they need to be pulled and cleaned, and the engine cranked over for 20-30 seconds without the starter to really clear it out

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

If the car won't start after it's been deflooded and has new plugs in than try the push start.. If the engine starts but runs rough as hell and scrapey, shut it off IMMEDIATELY, and take that shit back to the dealership for either a refund or a $5k discount, because that's what the rebuild will likely cost you...

I've yet to see a renni fail from an oil related problem. Most of them just get tired sticky and cranky and loose compression

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

I would change everything. With that many miles on the RENI I would bet it's blown. Seeing oil on the front isn't a good sign. 8's have had a problem with corrosion on the oil cooler lines and splitting. So it's a good bet that's happened if it's been a northern car all its life.

Blown is a little harsh... lets not forget FrankenB's donor. Nothing was broken on that engine, just a dirty TB, and MAF sensor, and the internals were all sticky and pissed off.... but nothing was blown

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

new plugs and especially new coils.

Werd..... new coils... I don't even want to think about how many engines were replaced under warranty because of faulty coils.

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

A fully charged battery, real 91 or so gas fill to at least half a tank and try to start her.

91 gas? What is that phaggotry

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

Things to check/clean the SSV and the MAP sensor. Both are known to cause hard starting issues.

And TB, don't forget the TB

[QUOTE=JL1RX7;332832]

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

Also be careful of what you read on eight club. Lots of good info on there. But lots of armchair bullshit with it. Follow the tech stuff on how to pull it apart. The rest is mostly opinions. So you generally get one piece of good info in a thread with rest either wrong or lies. It can be difficult to figure out which is which.

That....

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

Possible, but usually that's lower on the block. Either the injectors are clogged and the OMP kept pumping or the SSV did something. But around the coils no oil lines are close. Fill tube and oil filter are further back.

Fill tube and oil filter tend to do alot of leaking though if someone is trying to fill the engine in the hurry

Originally Posted by RotaryBC

Removed the coils, wires and plugs

Plugs:
Top Front
Lower Front

Top Rear
Lower Rear

Wires To:
Top Front
Lower Front

Top Rear
Lower Rear

Coils tested good

Secondary shutter valve...are you kidding me?

The tech manual starts at “Remove the front bumper”

I thought it was bad when it said “Drain the coolant”

Did see the three valves...the bottom one had oil on it

Tell me what you think about the plugs

Sooooo much wrong there... especially with remove front bumper.

OK.... soooooo look.... You've really not done much here to troubleshoot anything. You pulled the plugs... now compression test it.

Put the #2 plugs back in, pull th TB off, pull the EGI fuse and crank the engine over and LISTEN very carefully. Every compression stroke should should sound the same and be the same time apart. Does it?

Yes - Install the compression tested with the schrader valve and crank for 15 seconds. Report the numbers

No - I hear a psh whooo whoo psh. Engine Blown. I give this a 10% possibility

Repeat for the rear rotor.

Next step, install ALL NEW PLUGS & WIRES & COILS

Next, drain the gas

Next, Add fresh gas!

Next, try to start it with the key.

If that doesn't work, pull start.

[RotaryBC]

Put the #2 plugs back in, pull th TB off, pull the EGI fuse and crank the engine over and LISTEN very carefully. Every compression stroke should should sound the same and be the same time apart. Does it?

#2 = Lower plug?
What is EGI?

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by RotaryBC

#2 = Lower plug?
What is EGI?

It is one of the large fuses in your engine bay. The fuse box cover should have it labeled like this:

[TitaniumTT]

No, #2 ROTOR. The rear. You need to separate the chambers so as it's rotating you can hear if one rotor is "blown" or the other is. It's known as the poor mans compression test. Personally, I call it the experienced rotor guru's compression test. By listening you can tell what's bad and whats not, and generally how healthy an engine is.

The EGI fuse is the fuse for the ECU. Basically the ECU needs to be off or when you rotate the engine for the compression test, the injectors will fire, and so will the coils. Don't need to explain why that would be bad if two plugs were missing

[TitaniumTT]

That's from an FC. The 8 is completely different

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

That's from an FC. The 8 is completely different

Yeah, I just google image searched for "rx8 egi fuse", I wasn't sure if it specifically belonged to an 8 or not. I figured at the least he'd get the general idea of what to look for

(I'm bored as hell at work, please forgive me.. )

[TitaniumTT]

If bored, find me a new BAC valve for an FD for ~$100... all the ones I'm seeing are >3x that price

[Fendamonky]

On it..

[RotaryBC]

If bored, find me a new BAC valve for an FD for ~$100... all the ones I'm seeing are >3x that price

Was that a drive by thread jacking?

Pulled the TB found the EGI fuse and relay. Should I remove the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor for this test?

Also all 4 plugs were the lower plugs.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by RotaryBC

Was that a drive by thread jacking?

If it was?

Originally Posted by RotaryBC

Pulled the TB found the EGI fuse and relay. Should I remove the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor for this test?

Removing the CAS plug is a PITA to do, easier to pull the fuse

Originally Posted by RotaryBC

Also all 4 plugs were the lower plugs.

Super rare 26B RX8?

[RotaryBC]

New problem
It won't turn over.

Time out, I keep forgetting this is a manual!!

I did remove the ESP sensor (it was only one bolt)

Going back out side!