Plain Jane OEM nothing to see here rebuild

FerociousP · 10-11-2010, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JustJeff

I'm going with a 1.7, once the car is back on the road and I'm not paying the bills for the rebuild I'll start thinking about sending my old turbo to BNR and other upgrades. Though most of my modifications I want are reliability and longevity mods. I'm eyeballing Sohn's MOP mod ATM
http://rotaryaviation.com/oil_injector_pump_adaptors.htm

I'm curious which pins you swapped on the N/A harness, not the VDI pin at the ECU, but IIRC there are two pins that need swapped further up the harness on the two plugs that attach to the dash harness. I've got two spare N/A harnesses and compared them to my modified harness...I can't find any wires different.

I went with the 1.7 at first, and it was fine, but I wanted a little more control and its only $350 to upgrade. I've been able to add fuel and (subtract fuel for idle) and it idles and runs great. turnaround is very fast. My next upgrade is a BNR stg1 (mainly for the ported wastegate). a pull from low rpm in 4th creeps to 14psi, which is where the map on the stock ecu stops. In the stage2, I actually have the injectors go almost full open if it sees 14psi.

I didn't change any pins anywhere... though I'm not running a knock sensor or boost control solenoid. All the others match up to their respective turbo pins.

JustJeff · 10-11-2010, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FerociousP

I went with the 1.7 at first, and it was fine, but I wanted a little more control and its only $350 to upgrade. I've been able to add fuel and (subtract fuel for idle) and it idles and runs great. turnaround is very fast. My next upgrade is a BNR stg1 (mainly for the ported wastegate). a pull from low rpm in 4th creeps to 14psi, which is where the map on the stock ecu stops. In the stage2, I actually have the injectors go almost full open if it sees 14psi.

I didn't change any pins anywhere... though I'm not running a knock sensor or boost control solenoid. All the others match up to their respective turbo pins.

I'm not running a knock sensor either and will be loosing the boost solenoid.

RotorDad · 10-11-2010, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JustJeff

Thanks Dad, I remember having read that but those thoughts fell on the backburner. Thanks for bringing that up. I believe it was on Nopistons I read people using RX8 gears.

I might actually use them on my next build. It was still fresh in my mind. LOL

NoDOHC · 10-11-2010, 11:55 PM

You call yourself the Newbie, but you have done more than most people on this forum.

Congrats to you.

That is a nice ride / project.

JustJeff · 10-12-2010, 01:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RotorDad

I might actually use them on my next build. It was still fresh in my mind. LOL

I'm curious, did you come across the same info about needing to shave the 13B eccentric shaft to use with RX8 gears?

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoDOHC

You call yourself the Newbie, but you have done more than most people on this forum.

Congrats to you.

That is a nice ride / project.

Thanks man, much appreciated. I've been around rotaries for some time. My father bought an FB new when I was barely young enough to remember. From the early 80s on my father and I have owned 5 RX's between us. Four of those 5 have been verts.

This is my first rebuild so I'm trying to be as thorough as possible on the whole thing. I have a disturbing photo gallery of the engine removal and teardown. I bagged and tagged every nut and bolt. I measured step wear, warping and such on the irons.

What I need to decide is what direction the body of the car is going to go. I need to decide whether to buy my father's black vert and put my drivetrain in it or keep my red vert. I'm a softy for black verts and it's kind of a toss up over which work is most worth the effort. Swapping rear subframes so my LSD will be on the black vert...as well as my stereo system, alarm, etc...or keep the red vert and eventaully painting it black.

JustJeff · 10-25-2010, 04:20 PM

Quick update...the rebuild is moving forward. I want to get as much done as possible before cold weather hits.

I bought a replacement housing, it's on it's way to me. Low mile JDM housing that from the pics look to be in as good shape as my good housing.

Now I have to decide on RA seals or Atkins. I've got an overview of all the available seals that covers all the major suppliers. I'd love to hear feedback from people using RA, Atkins or even Goopy. Even better advice would be from people who used the seals then toredown the engine.

My concern with RA is about chatter marks and the reputation I've heard from them wearing the housings. Has anyone used them and torn down the engine they were in?

JustJeff · 11-07-2010, 08:39 PM

Another update

The housing I bought was junk so I'm working out a refund. The seller is working with me, but I'm more than a little pissed that his description was not close to reality. What really worries me is that this thing would be put up for sale and that someone might use it.

I might have a deal in the works for a housing from Japan. The pics look like it's in as good of shape as my good housing.

Now that I have more down time waiting I"m thinking of repainting my irons. While the black duracell theme was kinda fun at first I can see it growing on me...in a bad way. I'm thinking of simply doing an aluminum, I brought home some VHT "Titanium Blue Silver" but I may do simple aluminum. At least with aluminum when it gets chipped and starts flaking it won't show up as much.

One question about repainting. Can I simply cover the clear coat with self-etching primer or should I rough up the paint surface before? For repainting I'm going to do like the first color. I'll prime, paint and clear coat.

I'll get some pics of the good internal engine parts soon.

JustJeff · 11-08-2010, 01:07 PM

Got my answer about self-etching primer from a friend who does body work. etching primer is designed to bond to bare metal, not paint. Guess I have to repaint the hard way...

JustJeff · 11-09-2010, 12:52 AM

Here is my good housing

JustJeff · 11-09-2010, 12:54 AM

Question about my flywheel...will resurfacing my flywheel remove that? How much of an issue is that going to be?

JustJeff · 11-09-2010, 01:00 AM

I bought this rotor and after cleaning it found this...at first I didn't notice it. Can I use this rotor? What about flipping it around for the other housing so that the momentum of the engine will always be pushing the seal away from that damaged area?

This is my other rotor, the one I damaged when I detonated...it almost seems to be in better shape than the one I bought

JustJeff · 11-11-2010, 10:52 PM

[QUOTE=JustJeff;131896]Question about my flywheel...will resurfacing my flywheel remove that? How much of an issue is that going to be?

Talked to a machine shop, it's not ideal obviously but the crack is only on the surface. I'll probably be using it...after resurfacing, unless I find a good deal on a flywheel.

JustJeff · 11-21-2010, 07:31 PM

So I decided to repaint my front cover. Was originally going to scuff up the paint some, reprime, paint, clearcoat. Got annoyed with all the nooks and crannies I was having a hard time reaching. So I bought some airplane paint remover and have spent the last week trying to get the gook out of nooks and crannies. Never again will I do that!!

I've officially given up and will be taking it to get it sandblasted. Wish I had simply stuck to scuffing up the paint. I doubt missing the nooks and crannies would have mattered. But the paint partially pulled off the metal will cause problems.

JustJeff · 11-29-2010, 11:47 PM

Update!!

Housing arrived today from Jland. Thank you to 87GTR from 7club for hooking me up. His price was VERY reasonable. I got a S5 housing that is simply in gorgeous shape. I also bought an InfiniIV strut bar from him. And as a bonus perk, he tossed in some snacks from Japan!!

I'll get it cleaned up and post some pics in the next couple days.

GoopyPerformance · 12-06-2010, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JustJeff

I bought this rotor and after cleaning it found this...at first I didn't notice it. Can I use this rotor? What about flipping it around for the other housing so that the momentum of the engine will always be pushing the seal away from that damaged area?

Those rotors are still very much usable. If you guage the Clearance between the apex seal slot and apex and would like it tighter we offer a oversize apex seals. Its still categorized as a 2MM seal but .003 thicker to make up for high millage slop or damaged rotor edges.
http://www.goopyperformance.com/
http://wljphotography.com/index.html

10-11-2010, 11:55 PM	#19
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin iTrader: (1) Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	You call yourself the Newbie, but you have done more than most people on this forum. Congrats to you. That is a nice ride / project. __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)

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10-25-2010, 04:20 PM	#21
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 505 Rep Power: 17	Quick update...the rebuild is moving forward. I want to get as much done as possible before cold weather hits. I bought a replacement housing, it's on it's way to me. Low mile JDM housing that from the pics look to be in as good shape as my good housing. Now I have to decide on RA seals or Atkins. I've got an overview of all the available seals that covers all the major suppliers. I'd love to hear feedback from people using RA, Atkins or even Goopy. Even better advice would be from people who used the seals then toredown the engine. My concern with RA is about chatter marks and the reputation I've heard from them wearing the housings. Has anyone used them and torn down the engine they were in?

11-07-2010, 08:39 PM	#22
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 505 Rep Power: 17	Another update The housing I bought was junk so I'm working out a refund. The seller is working with me, but I'm more than a little pissed that his description was not close to reality. What really worries me is that this thing would be put up for sale and that someone might use it. I might have a deal in the works for a housing from Japan. The pics look like it's in as good of shape as my good housing. Now that I have more down time waiting I"m thinking of repainting my irons. While the black duracell theme was kinda fun at first I can see it growing on me...in a bad way. I'm thinking of simply doing an aluminum, I brought home some VHT "Titanium Blue Silver" but I may do simple aluminum. At least with aluminum when it gets chipped and starts flaking it won't show up as much. One question about repainting. Can I simply cover the clear coat with self-etching primer or should I rough up the paint surface before? For repainting I'm going to do like the first color. I'll prime, paint and clear coat. I'll get some pics of the good internal engine parts soon.

11-08-2010, 01:07 PM	#23
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 505 Rep Power: 17	Got my answer about self-etching primer from a friend who does body work. etching primer is designed to bond to bare metal, not paint. Guess I have to repaint the hard way...

11-09-2010, 12:52 AM	#24
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 505 Rep Power: 17	Here is my good housing

11-09-2010, 12:54 AM	#25
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 505 Rep Power: 17	Question about my flywheel...will resurfacing my flywheel remove that? How much of an issue is that going to be?

11-09-2010, 01:00 AM	#26
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 505 Rep Power: 17	I bought this rotor and after cleaning it found this...at first I didn't notice it. Can I use this rotor? What about flipping it around for the other housing so that the momentum of the engine will always be pushing the seal away from that damaged area? This is my other rotor, the one I damaged when I detonated...it almost seems to be in better shape than the one I bought

11-11-2010, 10:52 PM	#27
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 505 Rep Power: 17	[QUOTE=JustJeff;131896]Question about my flywheel...will resurfacing my flywheel remove that? How much of an issue is that going to be? Talked to a machine shop, it's not ideal obviously but the crack is only on the surface. I'll probably be using it...after resurfacing, unless I find a good deal on a flywheel.

11-21-2010, 07:31 PM	#28
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 505 Rep Power: 17	So I decided to repaint my front cover. Was originally going to scuff up the paint some, reprime, paint, clearcoat. Got annoyed with all the nooks and crannies I was having a hard time reaching. So I bought some airplane paint remover and have spent the last week trying to get the gook out of nooks and crannies. Never again will I do that!! I've officially given up and will be taking it to get it sandblasted. Wish I had simply stuck to scuffing up the paint. I doubt missing the nooks and crannies would have mattered. But the paint partially pulled off the metal will cause problems.

11-29-2010, 11:47 PM	#29
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 505 Rep Power: 17	Update!! Housing arrived today from Jland. Thank you to 87GTR from 7club for hooking me up. His price was VERY reasonable. I got a S5 housing that is simply in gorgeous shape. I also bought an InfiniIV strut bar from him. And as a bonus perk, he tossed in some snacks from Japan!! I'll get it cleaned up and post some pics in the next couple days.