It looked so simple at first!

[GySgtFrank]

Just got back from scoping out the salvage yard. I need to replace the sheetmetal structure that I removed to put in the new spring perches and framing. Trying to build something that looks half assed decent will be a royal b****. Looking at the metal inner fenders from a 1967 Country Squire wagon. They were still made with real metal and appear to be about the same gauge as my original inner structure. It would save me a ton of metal forming work for 40 - 50 bucks. The stamped metal would also look a lot cleaner than my hacked and welded original plan. It will still need to be cut to size and welded in though to make sure the unibody structure remains at least as strong as the original. They have lots of cool stuff over there, I need more money, and time.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

Done filling the extraneous holes and doing the rough grind on the new front frame structure. I was asked for pictures so here they are, you folks are gluttons for pictures.

It doesn't look that much different from the previous pictures, but it does look a lot cleaner than before in person. I'll go to my orbital sander and paper before I lay down the primer. No sense getting too carried away until I have it closed all the way up. Some of the welds were damn ugly, but I have most of the ones that will show in the engine bay cleaned up. The ones in the wheel wells wil get a good coating of primer, seam sealer, and undercoating. Again no sense getting carried away tidying those up too much.

Looks really fucking great man. Awesome job! For damn sure.

After the primer goes down are you going to skim coat the entire bay with some plastic and then sand it down before more primer and then some sanding and then some plastic and then some primer and then some primer surface and then some more sanding and then some primer and then some color and then some clear and some clear and some more clear?

Originally Posted by 2gslse

Looking good gunny but are you going to have enough room for a turbo in there?

There's always room for one of those

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

Not sure. I've only lost about two inches of room across the engine bay. I've been trying my best not to encroach on the space for engine stuffs, but some compromises had to be made.

Depending on where those 2" are will determine how bad it will be to get a little turbo in there....

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

I've actually been really interested to see how AJ's screw style supercharger worked out for him. By the time the procrastinator general gets it on there though I'll probably be pushing up daisies.

He's doing a blow through right? How hard would it be to keep the damn thing FI?

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

Just got back from scoping out the salvage yard. I need to replace the sheetmetal structure that I removed to put in the new spring perches and framing. Trying to build something that looks half assed decent will be a royal b****. Looking at the metal inner fenders from a 1967 Country Squire wagon. They were still made with real metal and appear to be about the same gauge as my original inner structure. It would save me a ton of metal forming work for 40 - 50 bucks. The stamped metal would also look a lot cleaner than my hacked and welded original plan. It will still need to be cut to size and welded in though to make sure the unibody structure remains at least as strong as the original. They have lots of cool stuff over there, I need more money, and time.

That right there is a great idea...

[GySgtFrank]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Looks really fucking great man. Awesome job! For damn sure.

Danke

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

After the primer goes down are you going to skim coat the entire bay with some plastic and then sand it down before more primer and then some sanding and then some plastic and then some primer and then some primer surface and then some more sanding and then some primer and then some color and then some clear and some clear and some more clear?

No! keep your evil thoughts away! I plan to just get primer on there and run it that way until I know for sure where everything is going to be and all modifications are done. I've painted cars before and only want to go through that bullpuckey once.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

He's doing a blow through right? How hard would it be to keep the damn thing FI?

If I were to go the supercharger route that's what I would do. Use an engine setup for turbo(s) and just get my boost from a different source. AJ has to do things the hard way though.

Yeah, right, look who's talkin'.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

Danke

:cheers:

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

No! keep your evil thoughts away! I plan to just get primer on there and run it that way until I know for sure where everything is going to be and all modifications are done. I've painted cars before and only want to go through that bullpuckey once.

Truff... I meant after everything is done and welded and you're getting the entire car painted. I did it with the FC and plan on doing it with the 'vert.... closed up all the holes and filled and faired a little.. on the FC.... the 'vert I want to make a much cleaner engine bay..

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

If I were to go the supercharger route that's what I would do. Use an engine setup for turbo(s) and just get my boost from a different source. AJ has to do things the hard way though.

Gotcha... sounds like an idea... how much power are you looking for? I'm assuming you'd be using either 8.5 or 9.0:1 rotors?

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

Yeah, right, look who's talkin'.

[GySgtFrank]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Truff... I meant after everything is done and welded and you're getting the entire car painted. I did it with the FC and plan on doing it with the 'vert.... closed up all the holes and filled and faired a little.. on the FC.... the 'vert I want to make a much cleaner engine bay..

When I'm ready for paint I'll probably media blast the engine bay then yeah lots of sanding, sealer, primer, et al. I have some ideas for subtle body mods I'd like to do before that though. Such as extend the wheelbase front and rear (which I should be able to do with my setup) and move the wheel openings, clean up the bumpers, lower the front edge of the windshield so the roof line is flat, etc. Just a clean up of the lines without actually altering the intended shape. Mostly ideas taken from the Hot Rod realm. Who knows if I'll ever manage to get to that point though. Suspension, chassis reinforcement, electronics, and engine will be enough to keep me busy for quite a while.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Gotcha... sounds like an idea... how much power are you looking for? I'm assuming you'd be using either 8.5 or 9.0:1 rotors?

I'd like to be in the 300 to 350 hp range, but even the stock REW numbers would be an improvement. I was planning to look for some S4 TII 8.5s, durability would be very high on my desirability list.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

When I'm ready for paint I'll probably media blast the engine bay then yeah lots of sanding, sealer, primer, et al. I have some ideas for subtle body mods I'd like to do before that though. Such as extend the wheelbase front and rear (which I should be able to do with my setup) and move the wheel openings, clean up the bumpers, lower the front edge of the windshield so the roof line is flat, etc. Just a clean up of the lines without actually altering the intended shape. Mostly ideas taken from the Hot Rod realm. Who knows if I'll ever manage to get to that point though. Suspension, chassis reinforcement, electronics, and engine will be enough to keep me busy for quite a while.

Not sure if serious....

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

I'd like to be in the 300 to 350 hp range, but even the stock REW numbers would be an improvement. I was planning to look for some S4 TII 8.5s, durability would be very high on my desirability list.

That's a no brainer....

FWIW a stock FD will make about 210-215 on a dynojet. I've done 196 on an S5 for a the shops ITS car and over 220 with a halfie and ITB's....

I think 350 plus would be a good time. You can always turn the boost down but who the hell wants to do that?

[GySgtFrank]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Not sure if serious....

Actually I am, but the likelihood of me ever getting to it is slim to none. The kinds of mods I'd like to do would be similar to the kinds of things that Foose does with subtle modifications. Things that you wouldn't really notice unless you were looking for them. Some of the lines of the car don't quite flow the way they should. They still look pretty damn good for a production line compact car though.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

That's a no brainer....

FWIW a stock FD will make about 210-215 on a dynojet. I've done 196 on an S5 for a the shops ITS car and over 220 with a halfie and ITB's....

I think 350 plus would be a good time. You can always turn the boost down but who the hell wants to do that?

Hmmm... What I would really like would be a N/A 20B (I'd settle for a 4 rotor too. ) with the ITBs. However like so many other things, that's probably just a pipe dream and the reality will more likely be a boosted 13B and a paint job.

Hell at this point I would settle for just getting the stupid thing back on it's wheels so I can push it over a cliff somewhere.

[GySgtFrank]

I am now the proud owner of a pair of crusty old inner fenders for a '66 Galaxy wagon. It only took me about 7 hours to get the blankedy blank things out of the car. Hopefully they save me enough metal forming time to make them worth it.


fender wells by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

[JL1RX7]

Was the coffee can in the fender well? Or just a bonus?

[GySgtFrank]

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

Was the coffee can in the fender well? Or just a bonus?

believe it or not that's an early charcoal canister for emissions, the car was originally from Califor-Ny-Ay.

[JL1RX7]

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

believe it or not that's an early charcoal canister for emissions, the car was originally from Califor-Ny-Ay.

Guessing coffee cans were the right size and cost.

[GySgtFrank]

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

Guessing coffee cans were the right size and cost.

and probably more effective than the over-engineered and over-priced units used later.

Now that you mention it I may need to keep that. Put a coffee label on it and use it in the engine bay. After all, the build would never have been possible without large quantities of liquid alertness.

[GySgtFrank]

The left front arch is in.

[chibikougan]

Like a boss!

[mazpower]

Badass Kevin!

Did you still want a bellhousing? I might be able to tow it behind my car LOL...