20B N/A build thread -- 3rd rotors a charm

[classicauto]

Originally Posted by charlies7

So as far as the engine management I have scratched the idea of going Electromotive for 3 reasons;

1) I have decided to go with the new haltech platinum line of ECU's

2) My tuner recently ditched a old Wolf EMS and switched over to a haltech and really likes the setup and the software. However he still likes the Electromotive systems.

3) Cost, im saving almost a grand on the entire thing, I figure I could use the money elsewhere for the car rather than a ECU when the Haltech is just as capable in completing a job.

I also recieved my exhaust manifold flange and lower intake manifold flange from To_slow, great products!

Ill post pictures of the flanges if anyone is interested.

Bear in mind with an Electromotive regarding the cost:

You're getting a superior trigger system with the ECU
You're also getting coils that will never need to be boosted by a CDI. The single tower coils in my car will light 9.00AFR + 375cc of water without blinking an eye.

So if plans are to spend the ECU savings on an ignition, you may want to re-consider.

Just a thought. Obviously they all work well, but the points above were things I never thought about, so just passing it along

My thoughts on the clearance issue:

I had a half bridge engine I ran back in the day witha T04-R. I blew it up and when we tore it down I found the front rotor had ALL of its corner seals on the gear side of the rotor jammed in place. There were scrape marks (still have the rotor if someone wants pics) along the tips of the rotor. I didnot build this engine so I can't comment on the care that was taken with regards to setting proper clearance in the first place (basically whether the housing was undersized for the rotor or not) but I can absolutely tell you my rotors contacted the irons at the tips, and the engine was NEVER over reved. In fact it never even saw stock redline.

I'm no expert though

[charlies7]

Originally Posted by classicauto

Bear in mind with an Electromotive regarding the cost:

You're getting a superior trigger system with the ECU
You're also getting coils that will never need to be boosted by a CDI. The single tower coils in my car will light 9.00AFR + 375cc of water without blinking an eye.

So if plans are to spend the ECU savings on an ignition, you may want to re-consider.

Just a thought. Obviously they all work well, but the points above were things I never thought about, so just passing it along

My thoughts on the clearance issue:

I had a half bridge engine I ran back in the day witha T04-R. I blew it up and when we tore it down I found the front rotor had ALL of its corner seals on the gear side of the rotor jammed in place. There were scrape marks (still have the rotor if someone wants pics) along the tips of the rotor. I didnot build this engine so I can't comment on the care that was taken with regards to setting proper clearance in the first place (basically whether the housing was undersized for the rotor or not) but I can absolutely tell you my rotors contacted the irons at the tips, and the engine was NEVER over reved. In fact it never even saw stock redline.

I'm no expert though

Well again, im going off what my tuner feels like he is more comfortable with..He knows both softwares and has tuned more haltech cars then TEC cars.

As far as the ignition goes I plan on running the 034 motorsport coils with the built in TTL drivers.

http://www.034motorsport.com/product...roducts_id=277

I figure this should be plenty good enough for my NA application. im not happy with the setup I will go the Electromotive setup.

Charlie

[classicauto]

Originally Posted by charlies7

Well again, im going off what my tuner feels like he is more comfortable with..He knows both softwares and has tuned more haltech cars then TEC cars.

As far as the ignition goes I plan on running the 034 motorsport coils with the built in TTL drivers.

http://www.034motorsport.com/product...roducts_id=277

I figure this should be plenty good enough for my NA application. im not happy with the setup I will go the Electromotive setup.

Charlie

Nice looking coils, they're......familiar



Car is going to be sic though man, I love the N/A 20B's.

Any plans for a custom or tuned length intake? Or just running stock?

[RETed]

Originally Posted by classicauto

Bear in mind with an Electromotive regarding the cost:

You're getting a superior trigger system with the ECU
You're also getting coils that will never need to be boosted by a CDI. The single tower coils in my car will light 9.00AFR + 375cc of water without blinking an eye.

So if plans are to spend the ECU savings on an ignition, you may want to re-consider.

Just a thought. Obviously they all work well, but the points above were things I never thought about, so just passing it along

Gawd, this thread is getting bashed here...

I thought all the Electromotive sign wavers disappeared by now.

The Electromotive trigger systems have the *potential* to offer better accuracy.
The loudest argument for this is when they say to shoot your current EMS ignition and watch the marks jump all over the place during accel and decel.
Sure, it can scare people when the see that, but...
The (rotary) engine has some "slop" (sorry, dunno what the technical term for it is called) from the eccentric shaft to the rotors (positions) themselves.
Anyone can see this just be rotating the eccentric shaft itself (by hand) and see how much play it has without the rotors themselves moving.
I believe the Haltech has better *adjustment* resolution versus the TEC, but I haven't checked the specs on the TEC units for years now.
So where does this leaves us?

Coils don't need to be boosted by anything...
Haltech allows you the flexibility to use almost *any* aftermarket coil you want.
Electromotive likes to push their inductive coil advantage (over CDI) - dunno why.
If you're so inclined against CDI, then you're not required to use CDI with a Haltech.
CDI has been proven in racing, so why bash it?
I like CDI cause it's more consistent versus spark plug gap - try and get that kind of consistency with changing spark plug gap with inductive coils.
LSx coils have been proven (with Haltech set-up's) that do not require CDI for years.
I bet the LSx coils are cheaper versus replacement coils from Electromotive?
Again, flexilbility is the key here, and you're not locked into buying the coils from the EMS brand manufacturer.
There is no mystery on inductive coil technology...
You have input voltage, # of windings or ratio, and output voltage dependent on the two previous...
If your spark is blowing out or not strong enough, either jack up the input voltage or increase the # of windings!
If the spark is still not strong enough, why don't we all run magnetos???

Sorry, I just had to add my 2 cents here due to the bad information...


-Ted