down pipe / abs heat sheild removal

hades · 02-08-2009, 09:12 PM

I am trying to install my very first downpipe - most of the info I have read says to remove the abs heat shield. I removed a few bolts and nut but it won't come free. Any advice? Everywhere says its a pain but doesn't give good guidance. Any help is greatly apprciated.

Doc-1 · 02-08-2009, 09:21 PM

Not an just slide out from underneath of the ABS unit. Wiggle it out and rotate it toward the passenger fender. Slow and easy. You know when you have the right bolts off when you can LIFT the ABS unit up a little

David Jerome · 02-08-2009, 09:32 PM

You do NOT have to remove the ABS heat shield. Remove the intakes, secondary turbo inlet pipe, and the ypipe and you can see everything easily. If you were to still have clearance issues you can undo the motor mount bolts and lift the engine up with a hoist and push it towards the drivers side(about another 1/2 inch clearance.). There are 4 14mm headed nuts holding the down pipe on.

Brent · 02-08-2009, 10:14 PM

Be careful if you don't remove it. I sliced/split my finger to where the bone was sticking out and did some nerve damage putting on a downpipe a long time ago. As I finally broke the last bolt loose(the one that is hard to get to), my hand went flying into the edge of the ABS shield and blood splattered on my face like something out of a horror movie. I thought it was some type of fluid from the car at first. I still don't remove the shield, but I do always wear gloves now

hades · 02-09-2009, 09:30 PM

well, I will try without removing. But lets pretend I want to remove the shield for other reasons - like cleaning / painting. How would you remove it then?

jkstill · 02-10-2009, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brent

Be careful if you don't remove it. I sliced/split my finger to where the bone was sticking out and did some nerve damage putting on a downpipe a long time ago. As I finally broke the last bolt loose(the one that is hard to get to), my hand went flying into the edge of the ABS shield and blood splattered on my face like something out of a horror movie. I thought it was some type of fluid from the car at first. I still don't remove the shield, but I do always wear gloves now

I tape up the edges of anything that sharp when working around it, in addition to wearing gloves.

The ABS heat shield in my FD is permanently taped with reflective heat tape as well.

Brent · 02-11-2009, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkstill

I tape up the edges of anything that sharp when working around it, in addition to wearing gloves.

The ABS heat shield in my FD is permanently taped with reflective heat tape as well.

Yeah, I'm normally very careful about it. This was back around 2000 and the UPS man had just dropped off around $3000 worth of parts from the rx7store that I couldn't get on the car quick enough... haha. And when I say $3000 worth of parts... that was a PFC and Commander, exhaust, mp, dp, and intake. I'm so glad prices have dropped significantly much compared to what they use to be. Of course, because prices have dropped, the owner demographic has definitely changed as well... which is not so great.

hades · 02-13-2009, 07:35 PM

i have the heat shield off and 3 off the 4 studs removed. one of the lower bolts is being stubborn so I am taking my time and using a lot of pb blaster.

jkstill · 02-17-2009, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hades

i have the heat shield off and 3 off the 4 studs removed. one of the lower bolts is being stubborn so I am taking my time and using a lot of pb blaster.

I actually left one of the stud in when I put in my downpipe.

Lining up the downpipe and inserting the bolts without some type of a guide is fairly difficult.

Leaving a stud in makes it quite a bit easier IMO.

hades · 02-17-2009, 08:34 PM

Got the nut removed, but the stud is still installed.

Should I remove stud? If so what is the best method and should this be done before or after pre-cat removal.

Thanks,

Caim · 02-17-2009, 09:05 PM

Well the best way to remove a stud if that is the plan that you decide to take is to double nut it... You put on nut on there thread it a little ways on there, then you put another one on. You tighten them together and then you use the lower one to back the stud out... It is like putting a head on the stud.

I removed mine if that helps you any.

hades · 02-17-2009, 10:15 PM

thought about that and applying heat first. Part of me says try to get pre-cat off and dp on first, without removing stud first. The other part says take it off first before you break it moving the pre-cat.

hades · 02-21-2009, 11:22 AM

I didn't pay attention to the studs lenth's when the came out.

Where do the short and long studs go?

Thanks,

David Jerome · 02-21-2009, 11:25 AM

The bottom rear stud is the one you need to worry about the most if you are using an aftermarket d-pipe. Once the Dpipe is mounted make sure to tighten the bottom rear down first.

hades · 02-21-2009, 11:51 AM

do the short studs go on top or down below?

02-08-2009, 09:12 PM	#1
hades Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Freedom Land Posts: 316 Rep Power: 18	down pipe / abs heat sheild removal I am trying to install my very first downpipe - most of the info I have read says to remove the abs heat shield. I removed a few bolts and nut but it won't come free. Any advice? Everywhere says its a pain but doesn't give good guidance. Any help is greatly apprciated. __________________ This is going to tear

02-08-2009, 09:32 PM	#3
David Jerome RCC Contributor Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 713 Rep Power: 18	You do NOT have to remove the ABS heat shield. Remove the intakes, secondary turbo inlet pipe, and the ypipe and you can see everything easily. If you were to still have clearance issues you can undo the motor mount bolts and lift the engine up with a hoist and push it towards the drivers side(about another 1/2 inch clearance.). There are 4 14mm headed nuts holding the down pipe on. __________________ David Jerome Broker for Speed For Sale LLC (David@SpeedForSale.com) (Pre-owned RX7/sports car sales & new parts sales/installs/tuning) PM me about low priced, high quality port work

02-08-2009, 10:14 PM	#4
Brent Sua Sponte Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Killeen, TX Posts: 839 Rep Power: 18	Be careful if you don't remove it. I sliced/split my finger to where the bone was sticking out and did some nerve damage putting on a downpipe a long time ago. As I finally broke the last bolt loose(the one that is hard to get to), my hand went flying into the edge of the ABS shield and blood splattered on my face like something out of a horror movie. I thought it was some type of fluid from the car at first. I still don't remove the shield, but I do always wear gloves now __________________ Road Atlanta August 2011 NASA TT 1:33 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFY00PAK_Ps Traqmate's video of my car from the 2011 UTCC at VIR http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Zcn6...layer_embedded Video of Yellow LS1 FD at NASA TT at VIR http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6k0lJkcwrM

02-09-2009, 09:30 PM	#5
hades Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Freedom Land Posts: 316 Rep Power: 18	well, I will try without removing. But lets pretend I want to remove the shield for other reasons - like cleaning / painting. How would you remove it then? __________________ This is going to tear

02-13-2009, 07:35 PM	#8
hades Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Freedom Land Posts: 316 Rep Power: 18	i have the heat shield off and 3 off the 4 studs removed. one of the lower bolts is being stubborn so I am taking my time and using a lot of pb blaster. __________________ This is going to tear

02-08-2009, 09:21 PM	#2
Doc-1 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Madison Alabama Posts: 115 Rep Power: 18	Not an just slide out from underneath of the ABS unit. Wiggle it out and rotate it toward the passenger fender. Slow and easy. You know when you have the right bolts off when you can LIFT the ABS unit up a little

02-17-2009, 09:05 PM	#11
Caim Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 93 Rep Power: 17	Well the best way to remove a stud if that is the plan that you decide to take is to double nut it... You put on nut on there thread it a little ways on there, then you put another one on. You tighten them together and then you use the lower one to back the stud out... It is like putting a head on the stud. I removed mine if that helps you any.

02-17-2009, 10:15 PM	#12
hades Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Freedom Land Posts: 316 Rep Power: 18	thought about that and applying heat first. Part of me says try to get pre-cat off and dp on first, without removing stud first. The other part says take it off first before you break it moving the pre-cat. __________________ This is going to tear

02-21-2009, 11:22 AM	#13
hades Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Freedom Land Posts: 316 Rep Power: 18	I didn't pay attention to the studs lenth's when the came out. Where do the short and long studs go? Thanks, __________________ This is going to tear

02-21-2009, 11:25 AM	#14
David Jerome RCC Contributor Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 713 Rep Power: 18	The bottom rear stud is the one you need to worry about the most if you are using an aftermarket d-pipe. Once the Dpipe is mounted make sure to tighten the bottom rear down first. __________________ David Jerome Broker for Speed For Sale LLC (David@SpeedForSale.com) (Pre-owned RX7/sports car sales & new parts sales/installs/tuning) PM me about low priced, high quality port work

02-21-2009, 11:51 AM	#15
hades Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Freedom Land Posts: 316 Rep Power: 18	do the short studs go on top or down below? __________________ This is going to tear

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