Fenda's uber garage Engine Build

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by chibikougan

I don't know nothing out that!

Yeah, then there is that

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

Ouch!

I've heard prostitution is profitable. Get some'a them sexy UDT shorts and a cut-off T shirt, go hang out on street corners.

Sheeettt.... that's what I've been planning to wear when we FINALLY wash Brians FC

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Makes sense... Looks like my "build" is gunna get shelved until I've got moar monies

There's really no need for any of that anyway.

What is the ULTIMATE HP goal? Remembering that @ 469 you were basically dead even with the FC @ 375

But seriously... 500? A TD61 .. which you're talking about now.... SHOULD do that with the 9.4:1 Rotors. Peter's math is suggesting a 7% decrease in power from the higher comp ratio, my experience on the dyno is as such as well... I should've been @ 420, I was @ like 405 with some REALLY sloppy tuning.... That's what, a 3.5% decrease? The TD61 will do 550 all day long... sooooo that's what, in the 530 range? No need for all this custom comp shit for what you're doing. Just find an S4 n/a rotor that's within a weight range of what you've got, send it to Chip and be done with it. Order new bearings... ALL THE BEARINGS... an eshaft, oil pump, blah blah blah and get it back together.... then ship it to me to wire in the LR and tune the bitch...

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Sheeettt.... that's what I've been planning to wear when we FINALLY wash Brians FC

With the amount of interest that has accrued, the FC, the 8, the XJ and the FC next year get washed... bitches

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

There's really no need for any of that anyway.

Oh, I realize that there isn't any real need for the fancy shmancy custom CR rotors and such (I was initially musing as something to consider several years down the road). At this point I'm just shooting to get the car running happily again.

Originally Posted by Brian

What is the ULTIMATE HP goal? Remembering that @ 469 you were basically dead even with the FC @ 375

I would like to be able to touch on/around 500whp whenever I want by upping the boost that the computer allows. HOWEVER, I'll still probably just drive around on WG pressure 95% of the time. 370whp is plenty for messing around on the street and having fun in twisties... bumping the boost up to make 430 and then 500 would really only be used to sort out arrogance on the highway

Originally Posted by Brian

No need for all this custom comp shit for what you're doing. Just find an S4 n/a rotor that's within a weight range of what you've got, send it to Chip and be done with it. Order new bearings... ALL THE BEARINGS... an eshaft, oil pump, blah blah blah and get it back together.... then ship it to me to wire in the LR and tune the bitch...

Oh, I agree. If I had everything else I needed already (and some spare cash) than it would be a no brainer... However, I'm sitting at $0 in my car fund (had to divert the $1,500 I had to a Lawyer to help fix how my command has been fucking me for the past few years) and before I can even consider the wiring harness I'm gunna need coils (thinking I'll go with the Sakebomb setup $510), the new CAS/Trigger kit from FFE ($225). And I'd *really* like to go with the FFE engine mounts this time ($420)..
Total for Engine associated bits: $1,155

Engine wise I need the new bearings ($90+/- for the rotor bearings), the rear stat gear bearing ($40-$50), the front stat gear ($120), the front stack (approx $100), the E-Shaft ($190ish), Oil control rings for one rotor ($170 +/-), lapping/nitrating of the center iron ($220), a new rotor ($100 est), machining/balancing of that rotor ($400 approx), I already have the soft seals... I'm probably missing something, but I think that's the main chunk of the internal engine.
Total for Internal engine: $1,440

Harness wise I'll need the wiring materials, connectors, boots, tubing, bulkhead connectors, etc., etc., etc.. I think we worked out the cost of raw materials to be somewhere in the $800-$1000 range, depending on how much we ended up using and quality.. That's not even touching on what I'll pay you for your time invested, tools required, and experience used to make it right from the start (this labor cost will be your call)...And I've still got to factor in the EGT sensors/modules, the second MAP sensor, the boost control solenoid, I'd *like* to have a Toucan display plugged in (somewhere in the ballpark of $800-$900 iirc) so I can monitor all the values I don't have gauges for and adjust settings on the fly).
Estimated total to make the brain-box work: $2,000


(Approximate) Grand total to get this bitch running where I want it: $4,600 (this is NOT taking into account tuning costs or labor for yours truly)

I'm currently sitting at $0 in the kitty for the car... I'll chip away at it little by little, but I'm thinking there is no way in hell I'll have this finished before October.

Originally Posted by Brian

With the amount of interest that has accrued, the FC, the 8, the XJ and the FC next year get washed... bitches

I'll have my CBR down there most likely, we can have Chris and Bawb pose on it for the car washing photo-op

[RX SE7EN]

Save ur self some money. $420 for engine mounts is retarded. Mine were $80, and if u really want to save, hockey pucks work just fine.

Some areas of the car deserve a little extra money. Motor mounts just simply do not deserve to be over engineered when there are plenty of quality alternatives available.

[Fendamonky]

Did you REALLY just suggest I use hockey pucks??? (please tell me you're kidding...)

[Fendamonky]

As far as engine mounts go... I've gone from leaky OEM mounts, to Poly (banzai) mounts, then switched from poly mounts to solid mounts, and finally went back to (great condition) stock mounts.

If you're maintaining the stock mount design (metal arm with soft dampening around a metal connection bolted directly to the subframe) then I would agree that $420 is a bit extravagant since all you're doing is drilling a hole through some poly and bolting it in place. In this configuration it's a see-saw balancing act of stiffness/shifter feel and vibration transmitted to the body.

The mount that FFE recently released is different from the tradition engine mounts which reuse the stock (steel) arms. The FFE setup basically has a bushing mounted into the arm with the connecting bolt mounted horizontally to a cup (as opposed to the vertical connection directly mounting the arm to the subframe). This allows for a more solid feel while greatly reducing the vibrations transmitted from the engine to the body.

Call me a fan boy if you want, but personally I find the perks of a more civil cabin, while maintaining the better mount, to be worth the money. Plus, I like to support the small businesses that support our community.

If I wanted to stick with the traditional engine mount design than I would just reuse the pair of great condition OEM mounts I've got currently..

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Oh, I realize that there isn't any real need for the fancy shmancy custom CR rotors and such (I was initially musing as something to consider several years down the road). At this point I'm just shooting to get the car running happily again.

Than don't even consider it. For what you're looking to do, it's basically a no brainer at this point in time... KISS!

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

I would like to be able to touch on/around 500whp whenever I want by upping the boost that the computer allows. HOWEVER, I'll still probably just drive around on WG pressure 95% of the time. 370whp is plenty for messing around on the street and having fun in twisties... bumping the boost up to make 430 and then 500 would really only be used to sort out arrogance on the highway

Again, this is a no brainer. It can be done on a bone stock block with different apex seals (although not necessary - XLR8) and a PFC. I've done it. Do I like it? No, will it last a long time? No. Fuck... I tuned an REW with a PFC and an aquamist to 540rwhp on a BW @ 24psi and homeboy beat the FUCK out of it for 2 or 3 years, drag racing EVERY possible weekend, beat the shit out of it on the street until it finally started to loose compression. When it was torn down he had a small dent in a stock rotor, the Apex seals were worn to fuck, and the so were the housings... looked like he missed a few tanks of premix.... there's no need to get all fancy to make 500rwhp... as fucked as that sounds...


Ok.... here's what I would do If I were you..... take it as you will....

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

before I can even consider the wiring harness I'm gunna need coils (thinking I'll go with the Sakebomb setup $510),

Wait a few weeks until I get the IGN and D585 coils on the dyno, pick which one I say, and buy the coils, about $75/ea regardless of model.

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

CAS/Trigger kit from FFE ($225).

Yes

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

And I'd *really* like to go with the FFE engine mounts this time ($420)..

Do not need

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Engine wise I need the new bearings ($90+/- for the rotor bearings), the rear stat gear bearing ($40-$50), the front stat gear ($120), the front stack (approx $100), the E-Shaft ($190ish), Oil control rings for one rotor ($170 +/-), lapping/nitrating of the center iron ($220), a new rotor ($100 est), machining/balancing of that rotor ($400 approx), I already have the soft seals... I'm probably missing something, but I think that's the main chunk of the internal engine.
Total for Internal engine: $1,440

All of that, plus new Apex seals... give me the old ones

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Harness wise I'll need the wiring materials, connectors, boots, tubing, bulkhead connectors, etc., etc., etc.. I think we worked out the cost of raw materials to be somewhere in the $800-$1000 range, depending on how much we ended up using and quality.. That's not even touching on what I'll pay you for your time invested, tools required, and experience used to make it right from the start (this labor cost will be your call)...

Harness.... here's what's probably going to happen. Building the engine harness is only one aspect of it. You've still got to integrate it to the stock chassis harness, fuses and relays need to be mounted in the cabin. relocate the battery? Get rid of that click click click start FD bullshit... all of that. I'm telling you, it's going to be cheaper and easier by MONTHS if you just bring me the car, and 30 hours of labor later, pick it up to drive away and break it in. 30 hours for someone who has done this countless times will equate to 90-120 hours for a first-timer. If you look at some of the oldschool harness builders, their ENGINE harness' start at over $2k. You still need to integrate it to the chasss. There's a reason for that. How these rywire guys and whoever the other one is doing them for $700, I have NO idea....

At some point for Bawbs car I'm going to need to call Joe and say, send me a 50' spool of every single color and color combo you have of your 18' tefzel wire. Then I can bill you for the wire being used, and you don't have to buy an entire spool. The Raychem I always have on hand so you get billed per foot, etc etc... it's the cheapest way to do it and not for nothing, and I'm sorry if I sound like a dick here, this is me helping you, seriously, I'm not being a dick I've just seen this too many times in the past TOO MANY TIMES ... if you've never done wiring like this in the past, wired a car up like this, or built a harness like this before, it's going to get fucked up. Something is not going to work. The extent of the fuck up will determine if it all gets ripped out or repaired. We had a 2.5hr long conversation about wiring over my little Bluetooth so I could keep working and there are a lot of concepts related to wiring that were all new to you. The first thing you said was, their are 88 pins, if I do one wire at a time, I should be ok. Well.... while there might be 88 pins lets just add this up
Injectors - 8
Ignition - 16
MAP - 3
EMAP - 3
TPS - 3
AIT - 2
Charge Temp - 2
ECT - 2
Lambda - 5
Trig - 3
EGT - 6
OP - 3
OT - 2
FP - 3
Boost Control - 2
Tach - 1
CAN - 2
Wheel - 10
Trim - 3
Thermo fan - 1
Fuel/ign trigger 1
Knock - 4
P&G - 2

That's 87 wires and I've used 2 out of the how many of the aux outputs? How many of those wires are shared? Do some of the temp inputs need resistors or is the logic built into the ECU. MoTeC's is, but the PS1/2000 isn't. I didn't know that when I wired up MC's FB and had I heatshrunk the whole harness, I would've been fucked. Glenn told me about that little tidbit which was NO WHERE in the halltech destructions

There's SOOOOO much to it.... I'm willing to help but I think it would be best if you just brought me the car after I'm done with Bawbs. Throw an empty keg in there with the mani's and the turbo and bam, you can pick the car up and build the engine @ your leisure and everything will be plug and play from there. I can even build the mani and DP for you at the same time. It'll cost you about the same in materials that you just don't need (you buy a 50' spool of wire and use 10' of it) and tools that will be used once or twice afterwards. Remember, I've got about $800 in tooling alone.

I've done this MANY times. If you still want to do it, I'll draw up a schematic based off of the LR datasheet and then you can attempt it. But if it doesn't work.... troubleshooting it will become an exercise in anger management.

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

And I've still got to factor in the EGT sensors/modules,

$100

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

the second MAP sensor,

$75

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

the boost control solenoid,

I'll give you an old Apexi one I have, but if you do dual WG's, you should have dual solenoids.... go look at my build thread, the IR ones are like $70ea

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

I'd *like* to have a Toucan display plugged in (somewhere in the ballpark of $800-$900 iirc) so I can monitor all the values I don't have gauges for and adjust settings on the fly).
Estimated total to make the brain-box work: $2,000

I don't like that display at all. I would do one of the new AIM's for like $1000 or whatever they are.

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

(Approximate) Grand total to get this bitch running where I want it: $4,600 (this is NOT taking into account tuning costs or labor for yours truly)

I'm currently sitting at $0 in the kitty for the car... I'll chip away at it little by little, but I'm thinking there is no way in hell I'll have this finished before October.

I think the problem is the LR.... had you kept the PFC that's like $6-7k that could've been diverted.

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

I'll have my CBR down there most likely, we can have Chris and Bawb pose on it for the car washing photo-op

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

It can be done on a bone stock block with different apex seals (although not necessary - XLR8) and a PFC.

THAT ain't gunna happen, lol. Keeping the PFC in there to have everything done for DGRR instead of holding off and doing the break-in once I had a better ECU probably has as much to do with the engine loss as does the loosened oil fitting (because a better computer would have caught the dropping oil pressure and taken appropriate actions).

Originally Posted by Brian

Ok.... here's what I would do If I were you..... take it as you will....

You're preaching to the choir here bro I'm already planning on bringing the car up your way and (hopefully) getting back up there to help/learn as much as I can. I thought I had alluded to that in my tone (referencing how much you'd want for labor and such) if not by blatantly agreeing that it would be the smarter choice over the phone

Originally Posted by Brian

Wait a few weeks until I get the IGN and D585 coils on the dyno, pick which one I say, and buy the coils, about $75/ea regardless of model.

Yeah, I saw you had mentioned that elsewhere... I'm open to suggestions

Originally Posted by Brian

Do not need

Agreed. Need = no. Want = hell yeah!!

Originally Posted by Brian

All of that, plus new Apex seals... give me the old ones

Ha! Not gunna happen

Originally Posted by Brian

Harness.... here's what's probably going to happen. relocate the battery? Get rid of that click click click start FD bullshit... all of that.

Yup, I already have a battery as well (I picked it up for Jacks 8, but the terminals were on the wrong side so I kept it for the FD relocation).

Originally Posted by Brian

I'm telling you, it's going to be cheaper and easier by MONTHS if you just bring me the car, and 30 hours of labor later, pick it up to drive away and break it in.

Already my plan, I just don't want to move on it until I have the money in my hand to pay for what will be done up front. I'm not trying to burn a friendship over some car work. That's one of the main reasons I said I'm gunna shelf the project for a while, so that I can cover all the costs up front.

Originally Posted by Brian

It's the cheapest way to do it and not for nothing, and I'm sorry if I sound like a dick here, this is me helping you, seriously, I'm not being a dick I've just seen this too many times in the past TOO MANY TIMES ... if you've never done wiring like this in the past, wired a car up like this, or built a harness like this before, it's going to get fucked up.

Agreed. I'm smart enough to know what's above my head, and I'm honest enough to admit it Wiring is PFM mixed with Faggotry and Voodoo for me right now, if I can make it up to help you on it and figure out how it works then maybe I'll try to start on smaller solo projects.

Originally Posted by Brian

I've done this MANY times. If you still want to do it, I'll draw up a schematic based off of the LR datasheet and then you can attempt it.

I'm down with you doing it, I think the additional cost in labor is outweighed by the unspent cost in specialized tools (that I'll use once) and the high probability of fuck ups due to newb. Still though, I'd love to get as educated by this task as possible in the process..

I don't like that display at all. I would do one of the new AIM's for like $1000 or whatever they are.

I'm thinking the Toucan or this guys: http://www.autosportinternational.co...libEntryID=341

I'm not current on the new AIMs, but from what I've seen they all sorta replace the cluster, not really looking for that.

Originally Posted by Brian

I think the problem is the LR.... had you kept the PFC that's like $6-7k that could've been diverted.

Worse comes to worse I could always just buy another PFC, but I'd rather avoid putting that thing back in my car at ALL possible costs..

[JL1RX7]

http://www.aireco.com/

If they carry it let me know. Give me the cash and I will pick it up all day long. I can always ask my electricians for help on getting any wire from supply places at cost.

[RX SE7EN]

I didn't suggest hockey pucks, however, they are known to get the job done.

As an alternative to being a fan boy, get normally priced poly mounts (less than $150) and then by the Banzai Transmission Brace. That will be more cost effective and eliminate the transmission movement you mentioned.

[C. Ludwig]

You're going to love the LR ECU once you get your head around it. Very impressed with the Syvecs we're working with. Couple of the items in the GUI aren't very intuitive, so you have to look for them. But once you get the navigation down its a nice interface. The data and what you can do with it is very impressive. The fail safes and limp trips are very nice as well.

Does the LR dash offer the same abilities to be used for inputs as the Toucan? If not, I'd go with the Toucan. You can do a lot with it via CAN to turn different functions on/off. This saves inputs and simplifies the wiring. Its not a race dash and doesn't have that "cool" factor, but its very functional. I'd also recommend looking to swap to a DBW throttle. A lot of cool stuff you can do with DBW with the ECU.

Interested to hear about support from LR. Syvecs have been fantastic at answering emails and supporting their forum. Emails sent on weekends get answered same day instead of waiting for Monday. I've gotten replies at 11pm on a Saturday, their time. Good stuff.

The car we're doing retained the OE ABS, so we added another set of wheel speed sensors for the traction control. We did this instead of attempting any electronic fix to share the signal from the OE sensors with the ABS and ECU. We used some sensors off of a Ford pickup, which mounted with minimal fab work. If you hve or will delete the ABS, you can use the OE sensors with the ECU directly. Combined that with an accelerometer we built in-house for everything you need for the traction control.

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by C. Ludwig

You're going to love the LR ECU once you get your head around it. Very impressed with the Syvecs we're working with. Couple of the items in the GUI aren't very intuitive, so you have to look for them. But once you get the navigation down its a nice interface. The data and what you can do with it is very impressive. The fail safes and limp trips are very nice as well.

Yeah, that's what I was hoping for honestly. One of the only reasons I went with the LR unit over the Syvecs was that I could step down the inputs/outputs to what I'll need/use, and not have to pay for all the extras (the S8 just has much more than what I'll need). So in effect I managed to get all the capabilities of the S8/F88 that I'd be using, at a noticeably lower price.

Originally Posted by C. Ludwig

Does the LR dash offer the same abilities to be used for inputs as the Toucan? If not, I'd go with the Toucan. You can do a lot with it via CAN to turn different functions on/off.

Honestly I'm not sure on the full capabilities of the LR D5, I've only seen the two vague web pages on it so far. The Toucan is def my top choice as a stupidly awesome replacement for the PFC's Commander

Originally Posted by C. Ludwig

This saves inputs and simplifies the wiring. Its not a race dash and doesn't have that "cool" factor, but its very functional.

No worries of me blowing unnecessary money on a race dash because it's "cool" I'm perfectly happy with the factory dash and gauge arrangement and have no intention of replacing that anytime soon. Maybe if I one day turned the FD into a dedicated track car... But that's probably a good decade away (if it ever comes to that) and even then I'd probably just buy another FD to get stripped down and built for a single purpose from the start (I'd probably model it after Fritz's cars, with only 350-400whp and the focus on handling and braking)... But I digress...

Originally Posted by C. Ludwig

Interested to hear about support from LR.

I'm pretty sure that answer is going to be "sparse to non-existant". I'm ok with that though as the brand isn't geared towards "novice" hobby types, but more the teams and owners who have been around the block MANY times and don't/won't need their hands held with basic stuff. I am NOT that highly experienced guy... But Glenn (Mazpower) is, he's my dealer and my tech support Between Glenn and Brian I think it'll run just peachy.

Originally Posted by C. Ludwig

Syvecs have been fantastic at answering emails and supporting their forum. Emails sent on weekends get answered same day instead of waiting for Monday. I've gotten replies at 11pm on a Saturday, their time. Good stuff.

Yeah, the Syvecs side of the house is meant to be really good with the tech support for your average owner. I'm sure you (being well above the average owner when it comes to experience and knowledge) are a breath of fresh air to the guys on the other end of the help desk

I do remember hearing/reading that Syvecs closed down their USA based help center though, so now we've gotta go directly to the UK for any questions. Honestly I don't see that as being a huge problem though, as emails at 2am (for them) can still be answered first thing in the morning.

Originally Posted by C. Ludwig

The car we're doing retained the OE ABS, so we added another set of wheel speed sensors for the traction control. We did this instead of attempting any electronic fix to share the signal from the OE sensors with the ABS and ECU. We used some sensors off of a Ford pickup, which mounted with minimal fab work. If you hve or will delete the ABS, you can use the OE sensors with the ECU directly. Combined that with an accelerometer we built in-house for everything you need for the traction control.

Yeah, I'll have to move up to running TC and such at a later date. They came as optional upgrades at the time of purchase but I opted out. I'll probably get around to it one day, but for now I need to just focus on what's more important first (getting the engine back together and running )


Still, you should totally share your findings on the Syvecs (either in here or in a separate thread) as the more info that's out there the better!!

I really honestly believe that we're (as a whole hobby automotive community) taking huge steps forward in the ECU realm! We've got Syvecs/LR banging out badassery, AEM coming out with the STUPIDLY nice looking Infinity, Haltech and their Elite, Adaptronic putting out really capable entry level EMS's... I can imagine that the ECU companies are REALLY stepping up their games in prep of an automotive arms race

[C. Ludwig]

Which ECU did you go with? I assumed you went with the F88.

[Fendamonky]

I went with the F88RS.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

You're preaching to the choir here bro I'm already planning on bringing the car up your way and (hopefully) getting back up there to help/learn as much as I can. I thought I had alluded to that in my tone (referencing how much you'd want for labor and such) if not by blatantly agreeing that it would be the smarter choice over the phone

I missed that.... kewl.. that will definitely work...

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Agreed. Need = no. Want = hell yeah!!

I'm all about just get the fucker running as quickly as possible and make other adjustments down the road. You can accomplish the same with a torque brace like I did... I run MS mounts and my brace, no vibrations and no movement

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Yup, I already have a battery as well (I picked it up for Jacks 8, but the terminals were on the wrong side so I kept it for the FD relocation).

Kewl... there are some nice mounting options out there....

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Already my plan, I just don't want to move on it until I have the money in my hand to pay for what will be done up front. I'm not trying to burn a friendship over some car work. That's one of the main reasons I said I'm gunna shelf the project for a while, so that I can cover all the costs up front.

Very cool... most people don't think that far in advance... none of you have ever met Alex..... there's a reason for that

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Agreed. I'm smart enough to know what's above my head, and I'm honest enough to admit it Wiring is PFM mixed with Faggotry and Voodoo for me right now, if I can make it up to help you on it and figure out how it works then maybe I'll try to start on smaller solo projects.

The majority of the work gets done nights, occasionally I'll break away for a few hours during a weekend day..... occasionally I'll lock the doors, insert earbuds, and give the world a middle finger

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

I'm down with you doing it, I think the additional cost in labor is outweighed by the unspent cost in specialized tools (that I'll use once) and the high probability of fuck ups due to newb. Still though, I'd love to get as educated by this task as possible in the process..

Cost in tooling is the big one....

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

I'm thinking the Toucan or this guys: http://www.autosportinternational.co...libEntryID=341

I'm not current on the new AIMs, but from what I've seen they all sorta replace the cluster, not really looking for that.

Yup... I know.... I like the FD dash... don't know how I'm going to tackle mine... will get to that one eventually.... there's like 6 projects ahead of that one right now so I'm not all that concerned at the moment

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Worse comes to worse I could always just buy another PFC, but I'd rather avoid putting that thing back in my car at ALL possible costs..

That's just a waste at this point.... personally though I would've kept it and bombed around @ 12-14psi until the rest of the car was sorted, did the LR and a new turbo/mani/exhaust and then rocked from there..... but that's me....

Originally Posted by C. Ludwig

You're going to love the LR ECU once you get your head around it. Very impressed with the Syvecs we're working with. Couple of the items in the GUI aren't very intuitive, so you have to look for them. But once you get the navigation down its a nice interface. The data and what you can do with it is very impressive. The fail safes and limp trips are very nice as well.

I am anxious as well

[QUOTE=C. Ludwig;277030]Does the LR dash offer the same abilities to be used for inputs as the Toucan? If not, I'd go with the Toucan. You can do a lot with it via CAN to turn different functions on/off. This saves inputs and simplifies the wiring. Its not a race dash and doesn't have that "cool" factor, but its very functional. I'd also recommend looking to swap to a DBW throttle. A lot of cool stuff you can do with DBW with the ECU.[/quopte]

mmmmmmmm DBW is on the distant list of stuff for my FC.... ha... distant as in probably next winter

Originally Posted by C. Ludwig

Interested to hear about support from LR. Syvecs have been fantastic at answering emails and supporting their forum. Emails sent on weekends get answered same day instead of waiting for Monday. I've gotten replies at 11pm on a Saturday, their time. Good stuff.

That is very good stuff

Originally Posted by C. Ludwig

The car we're doing retained the OE ABS, so we added another set of wheel speed sensors for the traction control. We did this instead of attempting any electronic fix to share the signal from the OE sensors with the ABS and ECU. We used some sensors off of a Ford pickup, which mounted with minimal fab work. If you hve or will delete the ABS, you can use the OE sensors with the ECU directly. Combined that with an accelerometer we built in-house for everything you need for the traction control.

Pretty sure L:evi stripped out the ABS, and I think I even advocated upping the LR to have the TC.... I'm going to look into putting it into the FB that should be here soon.... DBW, TC... in an FB... yeah.... now were talking