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RX-7 1st Gen Specific (1979-85) RX-7 1979-85 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

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Old 04-29-2008, 04:58 PM   #16
fire85gslse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwaits View Post
Its a known deal.


The problem is that the control arm material is thin in this area. The operation of pressing them in from the factory expanded a smaller hole to snug them in. The operation of pressing the old joints out usually distorts the metal.

New ball joints do not get enough "bite" to stay in since the hole is already expanded from the factory and distorted from you pressing them out.

Some aftermarket ball joints have a groove machined into them for a c clip to keep them in. If yours do not you will want a few small tack welds. Mig is the best since you can get in and get out without heating up the ball joint to bad. Tig concentrates to much heat and can burn up all the grease.

-billy

Listen to this ^^^ guy billy, he know exactly what he is talking about.
He is right and I can tell you from first hand experience that even if the ball joint is tight it will come out one day so add two -three tacks to be safe.
I ended up buying new from mazda but will be tacking my old ones.

also look around. I think I saw some adjustable ones for sale somewhere else.
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Old 04-29-2008, 06:54 PM   #17
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thanks for the tips guys. i put 3 small 1/4 welds on them to hold them good and tight. thank god iam a tig welder and i can sneak small shit like this in.
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Old 05-07-2008, 10:37 PM   #18
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Hey post some pics. I'm planning on replacing my ball joints as well.

This means I'll have to buy the LCA, too I'm guessing
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Old 05-08-2008, 10:38 AM   #19
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Or just have the new ball joints tach welded...
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Old 05-08-2008, 02:32 PM   #20
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I don't anyone who welds.
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Old 05-08-2008, 03:41 PM   #21
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I'll help your ball joints......

I guess this is the same case for the S5 RX-7s as well as the S6s.

Glad I have an S4.
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Old 05-08-2008, 09:17 PM   #22
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I live in CA. Let me know when you'll be coming down
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