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[Signal 2]

^We're getting a bit off-topic, but if that was meant to convince me, your too late. I'm already running AI.
Mine is (currently) water only and a very simple (inexpensive and reliable) boost-activated system.
Since I don't run methanol, I don't count on much of a drop in IAT. In fact my IAT sensor is located pre-nozzle, and obviously I don't tune with it.
Thus, my AI only controls 3 things...knock, carbon and heat. The reduced heat is mostly seen in the lack in of temp spikes I previously saw after periods of hard boost. It's those kind of heat spikes that IMO tend produce alot of stress to things like coolant seals.

Good to hear about the clean rotors and seal grooves. My car's put up for the winter but my winter 'list' includes changing out plugs. Unlike before, there's been really no indication they're in need of changing...even though they've been in there about 50% longer. I've had no hard(er) starting, no break up, no slightly lumpy idle. Curious to see what they look like.

[yzf-r1]

Originally Posted by Signal 2

The reduced heat is mostly seen in the lack in of temp spikes I previously saw after periods of hard boost. It's those kind of heat spikes that IMO tend produce alot of stress to things like coolant seals.

This is a great point, and probably the best argument of all for water injection

Oh - and use Iridium plugs, they are the ONLY plugs that last 10k+ in these motors

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by yzf-r1

This is a great point, and probably the best argument of all for water injection

Depending on whether he's talking about water temp's spiking or air temps spiking I can def support it.

The cooling that water provides to the rotor housing will def take significant stress off the other parts of your cooling system, that's a very good thing Your water temps will also really benefit from having good oil cooling (dual) that are properly ducted. Also make sure that (both) your radiator fans are working properly!!


As for Air Temps, once the water/meth starts spraying you can def expect to see your temps plummet. With my VMIC setup I'll normall see intake air temps of about 8-10 degrees (Celsius) above ambient air while cruising around. Once the A/I starts spraying (and you're getting on it!) that temp will drop even closer to the ambient temperature. Each pulse in normal driving will normally drop the temperature a degree or two until it's down to 2-3 degrees above ambient.

Colder air = denser air. Denser air = more oxygen. More oxygen = more power.