Plain Jane OEM nothing to see here rebuild

[JustJeff]

Thanks again Ted. I'm using your guide for engine break-in guide

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/breakin.html

Combined with with Lynn Hannover's first start up guide
http://www.knology.net/~rv7rotary/St...rst%20Time.htm

I did not take manifolds off and check apex seals. I did pour oil in the oil filter holes. I did the outer hole and turned the engine by hand backwards. I did that a couple times. I poured oil in the center hole. I did not take off the oil pressure sensor. I have normal oil pressure, but is it possible I have air trapped and that's what's keeping my oil pressure up? I didn't get any sign of oil having travelled through my OMP/MOP hoses. Also my oil filter was very hot. Hotter than normal.

I'll do some reading over lunch on burping air out of coolant and oil systems.

[RETed]

Wow, that's some procedure just to make sure the oil system is working properly!

Typically, I prevent the engine from firing by disabling the fuel system somehow.
Usually easiest is to just unplug the fuel pump connector on the driver's side rear shock tower.
You can also just disable the stock ECU by pulling the EGI fuse under the hood.
Crank the engine over a few time, and this should be more than enough to prime the oil system.
If the engine was recently rebuilt, I'm sure liberal use of oil on all bearing and internal engine surfaces (or use of an assembly lube) was done to prevent damage from initial start-up.

How are you monitoring oil pressure?
Are you just looking at the stock oil pressure gauge?
If this is the case, the stock oil pressure sensor could be bad or failing.
Increased resistance in the circuit will cause the gauge to read high.
I would recommend installing a good quality aftermarket oil pressure gauge; if you can get one with the more expensive pressure *transducer*, those are more accurate.

As for oil temperature...
Do you have an aftermarket oil temperature gauge installed?
IR temperature gun on the oil filter?


-Ted