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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

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Old 04-01-2011, 02:02 PM   #1
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Default Ignition wiring sanity check

I'm getting ever closer to installing my stand alone (in fact I'm planning on wiring the power side of things tomorrow and crimping the cannon receptacle): I'm installing the quicksilver coils and want to wire them up on a plug prior to full installation. The trouble is they have no documentation that is sent with them. As such here's what I do have:



I have 5 wires coming off from the ECU that will be connecting to these. 4 switched grounds (one for each coil) and a 12v switched source (don't worry it's relay'd).

My thinking is this:

A - 12V+ switched
B - Switched ground wire
C - Chassis Ground
D - Chassis Ground (or should I really run a wire to the battery ground?)
E - 12V+ Battery

Is this wrong, or is there a better way to wire this up? Thanks.






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Old 04-02-2011, 07:11 PM   #2
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TTL means Transistor - Transistor Logic. This is almost always referring to a 5V signal.

There is no reason that I can think of that you should power your coils all the time (feed the Battery + with a switched source). The secondary ground should be connected as close to the spark plug as possible (this is the return path for the spark), the battery ground should be connected to a good ground point or the battery negative

Will the Platinum Sport ECU permit driving a coil at 5VDC instead of 12? (adjusting the pullup to 5V instead of 12V)? If so, you can invert the ignition output, drive the high at 5V and connect the low to the ignition output.

You can also ground the negative side and leave the output non-inverted (it will go high to energize the coil, fall to fire).

There are basically 2 things that you need to know. First, are the TTL inputs capable of accepting 12V (nominal - actually about 14V)? If not and second, can your ECU drive to 5V instead of 12V?
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Old 04-02-2011, 08:19 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoDOHC View Post
TTL means Transistor - Transistor Logic. This is almost always referring to a 5V signal.

There is no reason that I can think of that you should power your coils all the time (feed the Battery + with a switched source). The secondary ground should be connected as close to the spark plug as possible (this is the return path for the spark), the battery ground should be connected to a good ground point or the battery negative
So if I can, mate the secondary ground to the engine itself? Got it. Battery ground can be mated to a good chassis ground?
Quote:
Will the Platinum Sport ECU permit driving a coil at 5VDC instead of 12? (adjusting the pullup to 5V instead of 12V)? If so, you can invert the ignition output, drive the high at 5V and connect the low to the ignition output.
No... it can't do ignition pull up like that... but I could do a DPO at 5v, or hook up the 5v sensor source to them which might work out easier.
Quote:
You can also ground the negative side and leave the output non-inverted (it will go high to energize the coil, fall to fire).

There are basically 2 things that you need to know. First, are the TTL inputs capable of accepting 12V (nominal - actually about 14V)? If not and second, can your ECU drive to 5V instead of 12V?
I'm still waiting to hear back from 034 for the proper wiring schematic... As for the second I think I covered that pretty well.
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Old 04-03-2011, 03:26 AM   #4
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Best way I've found is to daisy chain gnds from the battery with powerposts.

Ground all the aux crap, mack certain that the coil gnd is a damn good one, make certain that the positive is solid then of course there is the trigger
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Old 04-03-2011, 09:08 AM   #5
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I found this recently:

Pin A - Ignition output from ECU
Pin B - ECU ground (chassis ground)
Pin C - Ground to the head
Pin D - Battery ground
Pin E - 12V+ switched
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Old 04-03-2011, 10:59 AM   #6
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If you really want to get fancy you can run the ecu gnd back to the same gnd that the ecu shares. Other than that, just grnd the other 2 and call it a day. The coil gnd is the most important grnd to worry about.
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Old 04-13-2011, 04:41 PM   #7
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So for Pin D can I ground it to the same location as Pin C without ill effect?
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Old 04-13-2011, 06:06 PM   #8
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the D Pin is the main (-) for the coil. SO make certain that is a damn fine gnd and then yes, C can go to it without any ill effect.
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2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:16 PM   #9
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I'm thinking of attaching it to the engine block itself, is that good enough? I've moved the battery to passenger bin so it would be a hassle to put it through the cannon plug unless it can work with a 20 AWG which I don't think would be good. I could run a 16 AWG wire for it, but I don't really want to attempt to shove it into the plug and would have to directly pass it through the firewall which doesn't look all that great.

I suppose I could measure the resistance between the point I intend and the negative battery cable in the cabin, which should give me a better idea if it's a good place or not. Is there a specific Ohm reading I should hope to see?
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vex View Post
I'm thinking of attaching it to the engine block itself, is that good enough?
No

Quote:
Originally Posted by vex View Post
I suppose I could measure the resistance between the point I intend and the negative battery cable in the cabin, which should give me a better idea if it's a good place or not. Is there a specific Ohm reading I should hope to see?
0



Grab one of those and put it on the firewall. Daisy chain the gnd from the battery, to the main powerpost, to that firewall piece, to the block, to the coils. Daisy chaining meaning that each stud has 2 terminals stacked on top of one another.

http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...0TYPE%20BLACK/
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DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
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Old 04-13-2011, 09:24 PM   #11
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This is why I ask questions

Alright, I'll run a temp wire in the mean time until I get a bulkhead fitting.
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:35 PM   #12
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No worries.... Waytek is awesome as they have quanitity min's not $$ mins. So you could order just that one piece. I wouldn't use anything under 18ga txl wire per coil.
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DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 04-13-2011, 11:40 PM   #13
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Wait, you can't/shouldn't daisy chain 'em?
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Old 04-13-2011, 11:47 PM   #14
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My setup is battery to powerpost, to engine block (one of the boss' on the rotor housings) to coil mounting bracket (I built it out of 1/4" AL plate and tapped an M6x1 bolt through it to make it a stud) to the individual coils. I'm saying if you run some sort of temp wire, don't go under 18ga per coil back to the gnd. Daisy chainin has served me well in the past
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DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
TitaniumTT is offline   Reply With Quote
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