Flooded after oil change 13B Non Turbo

[NoDOHC]

I have used the 2-stoke oil and the pull starting method. Both work.

Unfortunately, I can tell you that with a good compression (healthy) rotary, I have never had to do that. It doesn't matter how long it sat for or what I do wrong with fuelling, if I can eventually get the mix right, it will start.

For instance, I had a 1 bar MAP sensor on an engine with a tune for a 3-bar MAP sensor and by modulating the de-flood on the throttle pedal, I still got it to start. (This was putting in 3 times as much fuel as the engine needed).

This is bad news for you as you have either or both of the following problems:

1: bad compression
2: bad fuel mix

Because you have successfully started this engine in the past, I am inclined to believe the first one.

Get it running (pull or oil), drive it some, let it warm up completely, then check compression.

Should not be below 60 psi bounce on any face using a piston engine compression gauge with the check valve removed. Good is 80-90, bad is 50, really bad (requires perfect mix to start) is 30-40.

If compression is better than 60 psi on all faces of both rotors, you need to look at your carb settings.

EDIT: To explain what the pulling and oil does, the oil builds a sealing film between the rotor housing and the metal seals, prohibiting air from leaking past the seals and improving compression numbers (similar to a wet leakdown test on a piston engine). The pull starting makes the engine turn faster, which gives the air less time to leak past the seals and improves compression. Both ways you are implementing a band-aid to the real problem, low compression.