Plain Jane OEM nothing to see here rebuild

[RETed]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

I used JB Weld on the suspect area just to be sure...sanded it down of course. Engine is assembled up to oil pump, front stack and cover.

The problem with using any kinda epoxy in that kinda environment is:
1) heat cycling will cause the epoxy to loosen or even break up,
2) Additional exposure to coolant and / or combustion gases can only hurt.

I've used housing like that, and Hylomar takes care of any worries of sealing.

When setting play on the front stack do I want the flywheel on with the nut tightened down to spec?

Doesn't matter...
If fact, it'll make it harder to do the end play procedure with more weight on the e-shaft.
The only thing that matters is that the "front stack" is complete and torqued down to spec.
This includes everything under the front oil cover + front pulley boss + front eccentric shaft bolt torqued to spec.


-Ted

[Rotary Evolution]

a MBC set at 0 doesn't vent anything, it actually allows all pressure to get to the wastegate, when raising boost with it it will vent slightly to lower the pressure opening the wastegate.

i would get a lower temp thermostat, check the water pump, blow any crap out of the radiator core and check for obstructions. if all else fails check to see if the cooling system is overpressurizing.

edit: apparently it didn't go to the last page so nevermind.

[JustJeff]

Core of the engine is assembled


I bought a coolant seal pressure tester, used it and we are good on the coolant seal front.

Endplay on the front stack was borderline .028-.031ish so I used a different K spacer which I had to sand down a touch. Final endplay on the swapped and sanded K spacer is .002.

Outside of the actually install on the engine, the hardest part is going to be remember/figuring out my vacuum routing. I'm hoping to have the engine back in the car over the weekend, but that might a little ambitious as I'm a little backed up on schoolwork.

[Rotary Evolution]

i would also recommend ditching that "engine destroyer" plastic water pump neck and install an aluminum one.

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by Rotary Evolution

a MBC set at 0 doesn't vent anything, it actually allows all pressure to get to the wastegate, when raising boost with it it will vent slightly to lower the pressure opening the wastegate.

i would get a lower temp thermostat, check the water pump, blow any crap out of the radiator core and check for obstructions. if all else fails check to see if the cooling system is overpressurizing.

edit: apparently it didn't go to the last page so nevermind.

Excellent point on the MBC.

I believe I sorted out the cooling problem. I did not have my Taurus efan wired correctly. But I'm curious what temp thermostat you'd suggest. I have a 195 on thermoswitch for my efan. Moving my thermostat further away would save my thermostat and efan fighting each other.

Originally Posted by Rotary Evolution

i would also recommend ditching that "engine destroyer" plastic water pump neck and install an aluminum one.

I've never heard it called that. Other than a tendency for the plastic one to harden/crack/fail, what else should I know? For the record, I have a spare plastic one so I doubt I'd spring for the $100 aluminum one from Mazdatrix till I need it.

[Pete_89T2]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

I've never heard it called that. Other than a tendency for the plastic one to harden/crack/fail, what else should I know? For the record, I have a spare plastic one so I doubt I'd spring for the $100 aluminum one from Mazdatrix till I need it.

You've got it right. The plastic T-stat necks can crack if torqued down a little too tight, and being plastic they will tend to get brittle with age, and how they would react to various chemical products it may be exposed to over time is an unknown.

I haven't heard anyone complaining about these things failing in a catastrophic way, and plastic T-stat necks are used in just about every car out there today and have been for many years. When they do fail typically it's a hairline crack at the base area that results in a trickle leak (not a full dump of coolant). If it's not neglected, this kind of failure won't end up blowing your engine.

The AL replacement part is nice, but I'd save the money for something more important, especially being that you have a spare stock part handy.

[JustJeff]

When I started driving my first convertible many many years ago...that plastic neck was the first part which failed on me.

[JustJeff]

Finally the engine is back where she belongs!!!


This time around I left the transmission on the car. I think I now prefer pulling only the engine. I saved so much work in NOT having to drop the exhaust, remove the heatshields to get to transmission mount and convertible support. I didn't have to drain my transmission fluid, etc.

Install was much easier than I expected. Initially getting the transmission spline lined up and in was the hardest part. Jacking up the transmission helped greatly. Once that got lined up it I simply used a spare AC compressor mounting bolt and nut through the top bolt hole as well as the long starter through bolt. Once I was able to start tightening those down it was simply a matter of walking the bolts in place.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

Finally the engine is back where she belongs!!!

This time around I left the transmission on the car. I think I now prefer pulling only the engine. I saved so much work in NOT having to drop the exhaust, remove the heatshields to get to transmission mount and convertible support. I didn't have to drain my transmission fluid, etc.

Install was much easier than I expected. Initially getting the transmission spline lined up and in was the hardest part. Jacking up the transmission helped greatly. Once that got lined up it I simply used a spare AC compressor mounting bolt and nut through the top bolt hole as well as the long starter through bolt. Once I was able to start tightening those down it was simply a matter of walking the bolts in place.

Yep, once you get used to this procedure, you're always going to insist on doing it this way...

When lining up the splines, it really helps to have another body helping you.
Have the person push the engine from the front as hard as they can.
If you're underneath the car, shift trans in 1st or 2nd gear and spin the driveshaft with your hand.
(Make sure parking brake is off.)
If you're on top of the engine bay, crank over the front eccentric shaft or alternator - if you got the belts installed - to turn the engine over.

Good job!


-Ted

[Gregory Casimir]

congrats dude hope to see it running again

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by RETed

Yep, once you get used to this procedure, you're always going to insist on doing it this way...

When lining up the splines, it really helps to have another body helping you.
Have the person push the engine from the front as hard as they can.
If you're underneath the car, shift trans in 1st or 2nd gear and spin the driveshaft with your hand.
(Make sure parking brake is off.)
If you're on top of the engine bay, crank over the front eccentric shaft or alternator - if you got the belts installed - to turn the engine over.

Good job!


-Ted

I had a helper but they had to leave partway through. We got the splines lined up by jacking the transmission up a bit and pushing the top of the engine back towards the firewall. We had to take the driver side engine mount off to allow clearance. Helper had to leave but it was good timing in that we got the splines lined up and the rest I was able to solo. We were turning the engine via socket wrench on the front bolt.

Originally Posted by Gregory Casimir

congrats dude hope to see it running again

Thanks, Provided I don't have to have spark plugs brought in from another location or a warehouse I should be driving it early in the week. Things got slowed down yesterday because I decided to move my MBC from the shocktower to one of the air pump bracket bolt holes. Problem being, I had the housing powdercoated so there is coating in the holes and on the threads.

Does anyone know if the thread on those holes is M8x1.25? Those are the only 12mm head bolts I have and with the powder in there I don't want to force matters if it's the wrong thread. And, I don't want to start running a tap through there to clean it up if it isn't the same pitch.

[JustJeff]

Talk about frustratingly slow progress. Finally have everything BUT the alternator and battery buttoned up. I seem to have lost my only alt belt adjustment bar. Literally I had it 2 days ago and now it is no where to be found. Unless it evolved into having legs and walked away it is in the polebarn...somewhere...?? I took my UIM off thinking maybe I left it lying on top of the engine. I got under the car and checked crossmembers and heatshields to see if it fell in or on one. I have no idea where this thing is....and of course I threw out my spare one thinking "why would I ever need another one of these"?

I'm gonna tear apart the polebarn in the AM. If I don't find it I'm heading to my local junkyards. I already know there aren't any 7s on the lots, but maybe I can find a Camary one. According to a 7club thread they are nearly direct swaps.

[JustJeff]

Bahahaha!!

Edited my previous post because I'm easily confused and apparently so is the guy who works at Advanced Auto. Thought my starter was bad, but it was my wiring, or lack there of. I did not have the small single harness attached and couldn't remember if it was used or not. Took the starter to be tested with intent of watching how they wired it up for test. The employee did not use the small spade on the starter and I assumed he knew what he was doing. Starter tested bad and I bought a new replacement. When I bolted it up and had the same behavior I knew something was wrong. Took the OEM supposedly bad starter to a friend at another Advanced. I told him how I had wired it up...and yes he gave me the look of "are you a damn idiot??" He tested and the starter is just fine.

[JustJeff]

Engine is up and running!!

But, it still has the same bad bogging and event stalling if the throttle goes up with much of any quickness. Even bumping the RPMS from idle to 2k will cause it to bog and stall. It was doing this before rebuild and I thought I had found the cause in that my charge pipe to cold side coupler was splitting as I was dismantling things for teardown. I thought it had a small tear and my problem was a vacuum and pressure leak. That is not the case.

I'm still bleeding the coolant so I haven't had much time to diagnose anything. What I did notice is that the engine idles better and has less of a problem when vacuum hose that feeds my OEM boost sensor as well as my boost gauge is off the UIM. I use the nipple below the BAC with a tee to feed both OEM boost sensor as well as my aftermarket boost gauge.

When time permits I'll start testing TPS, OEM boost sensor, AFM, etc. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

[diabolical1]

congratulations. always good to see a first start. when you get it to stop pissing antifreeze, my first thought for your other issue is the TPS.