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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

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Old 03-02-2010, 09:11 PM   #1
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Default Copper water seals?

Just want to know if there is another alternative to the rubber or plastic water seals? Maybe copper seals for better reliability and fewer blowouts?
Just alot of questions stuck in my head that need answering, lol.






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Old 03-03-2010, 12:04 AM   #2
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I DID see a thread about some guy using copper wire for coolant seals on some junk engine, and they actually held up!

I couldn't find the post anymore, though.
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Old 03-03-2010, 01:08 AM   #3
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Pineapple offers a set, and there was rumor about a Viton o-ring from McMaster that fit...... don't think I would use it as a compression seal though.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:56 AM   #4
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If the plates and water seal grooves are in good shape, the car doesn't get overheated (ie. the rest of the cooling system is sorted for the use of the car) and you don't put washer fluid in your radiator the OEM's should last a very very long time.

I'm not aware of any actual copper ones, just the mentioned "heavy duty" versions. Personally, if you're toasting OEM coolant seals regularly, you'll likely have problesm with heavy duty ones because they are a symptom of another problem - not the cause.
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Old 03-03-2010, 01:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classicauto View Post
If the plates and water seal grooves are in good shape, the car doesn't get overheated (ie. the rest of the cooling system is sorted for the use of the car) and you don't put washer fluid in your radiator the OEM's should last a very very long time.

I'm not aware of any actual copper ones, just the mentioned "heavy duty" versions. Personally, if you're toasting OEM coolant seals regularly, you'll likely have problesm with heavy duty ones because they are a symptom of another problem - not the cause.
Im not tousting them regularly I was just wondering if they made a more reliable set? Are there any sites that offer them?
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Old 03-03-2010, 02:40 PM   #6
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Why?
Are you having problems with the OEM stuff?
I've never had problems with the OEM stuff unless you:
1) Overheat the engine
2) Detonate the engine

What kind of power are you making?
Soft seals have been reliable in 400...500hp engines.
How much more power do you need???

I don't think used housing can handle higher levels of power / boost.
This almost requires BRAND NEW HOUSINGS (for tighter tolerance and less wear).

Last time I heard someone developing aftermarket seals, get in touch with banzaitoyota (I think) from the other forum - his made-from-the-same-stuff-they-use-in-nuclear-reactors came out to somewhere north of $1,000 PER SET.


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Old 03-03-2010, 03:36 PM   #7
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Like has already been said, if you're cooking seals you have and underlying problem. A seal failing is simply a symptom, it's not the disease. Aftermarket seals are poor fitting hype.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:06 PM   #8
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Look people! I am NOT toasting seals so stop trying to toast me! I am going to school to study for engineering and was just WONDERING if there was such a thing!

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Old 03-03-2010, 09:16 PM   #9
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I want copper water seals! Fuck if I could make them fit though...
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:11 PM   #10
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straight copper = corrosion = bad

the plastic covered electrical wire from napa works tho (plastic coating prevents corrosion). Peejay has done this in his engines a few times and it works great and withstands heavy abuse.
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:53 PM   #11
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Would you have to have the motor dowled, and would you have clearance issues with them. (IF THERE WAS SUCH A THING)
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:56 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sickofpistons View Post
Would you have to have the motor dowled, and would you have clearance issues with them. (IF THERE WAS SUCH A THING)
With the seals from pineapple racing?
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Old 03-03-2010, 11:02 PM   #13
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We use something similar in jet engines turbine bearing sections they are ONE time use metal crush gaskets. They take literaly 30-45 min to torque down correctly not a big deal BUT I believe they would be a horrible application for this as the rotor housings can flex ever so slightly on higher hp/rpm applications. This alone will cause this type of hard seal to fail in short order i do believe. They are made of stainless steel as well fyi, look just like an o-ring just metal.
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Old 03-03-2010, 11:04 PM   #14
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This is what pineappleracing offers.

Detailed Description
This is our exclusive Heavy Duty Water Seal kit for the 3-rotor 20B. We tested these seals for over 7 years in numerous street and track cars before offering them to our customers. They have proven to be a significant upgrade over the stock water seals. We use them in all our 5-year warranty motors. Also, these seals are re-usable if you need to reopen the motor to freshen it, as long as the mileage is not too high or the engine too overheated. In other words, if you make a mistake and blow up your engine or perhaps improperly clearance the seals or whatever, these seals can be removed, allowed to "rest" for about 30 minutes and be reused when you put the engine back together. Stock water seals must be disposed of when freshening an engine, even with just a couple heat cycles. Kit includes the water jacket o-rings, front cover o-ring (and backup washer, if needed), dowel o-rings, rear stationary gear o-ring and oil pedistal o-rings.


I really just wanted to know if there where such a thing as copper seals, and if they where any kind of an upgrade.
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Old 03-04-2010, 03:38 PM   #15
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Honestly if you want to you could just use spring energized stainless steel O-ring.

It's overkill and you'll spend more money on it than other people, but you won't ever have to worry about blowing one unless the casing falls away.

Last edited by Phoenix7; 03-08-2010 at 05:28 PM..
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