De-Powering the power steering rack

[theorie]

I put this write-up on TeamFC3S.Org but since that site has seemed to have died, and there are alot of people here that I didn't know there, I decided to take the time and bring it over here for all to enjoy.

Bill can hopefully chime in on the feel of the steering, seeing as how he was in my car and playing with the steering wheel at DGRR.

So, here we go. (I'm linking the pics so if they don't show up someone please let me know as I still have the originals saved)

There have been NUMEROUS debates about the "right" way to go about this. I have heard people say things from, "Meh, just loop the lines and you'll be fine," to "All you have to do is remove the belt" and I've even heard that it cannot be done I see a few problems with all of the above statements. The seals that make the rack a power rack are still intact and there is going to be a bit a fluid left in the rack that you'll constanly be pushing around. There is no way to avoid this unless you take the time to pull the rack apart, remove all the fluid, and even the seals. See the pic below.



That seal on that shaft is one of the enemies. You can also see on the rack above the two different lines entering the rack. When you turn the wheel you are opening valves that allow fluid under pressure to be pumped into one of the two chambers that this particular seal makes. By leaving that seal intact you are needlessly pumping air and fluid around the rack. This effects the response and overall feel of the rack. If that seal is left in place and you cap the lines, you will constantly be fighting pressure and vaccuum when turning the wheel. You cannot escape physics.

Now, mind you the "feel" is all subjective and alot of people will say looping the lines feels fine but I think the only real way to de-power a power steering rack is to remove everything that makes it power to begin with. Novel idea I know but alot of people don't have the time or the patience or the inclining or the tools to do such a thing and becuase of those reasons I think alot of n00blet type mis-information gets spread around.... So lets get started.

Start with a Powersteering rack. They are identified by the lines... that I already took off damnit. This one happens to be a 15:1 from a parts car that was hit in the passenger front. Subsequently the inner tie rods where both spent.



I may be old but I'm pretty hard-core and luckily I have a friend with a true Manual if I hate this one. Actually I do primarily auto-xing and want to get into some road racing so the tighter the better.

[TitaniumTT]

I put this write-up on TeamFC3S.Org but since that site has seemed to have died, and there are alot of people here that I didn't know there, I decided to take the time and bring it over here for all to enjoy.

Bill can hopefully chime in on the feel of the steering, seeing as how he was in my car and playing with the steering wheel at DGRR.

So, here we go. (I'm linking the pics so if they don't show up someone please let me know as I still have the originals saved)

There have been NUMEROUS debates about the "right" way to go about this. I have heard people say things from, "Meh, just loop the lines and you'll be fine," to "All you have to do is remove the belt" and I've even heard that it cannot be done I see a few problems with all of the above statements. The seals that make the rack a power rack are still intact and there is going to be a bit a fluid left in the rack that you'll constanly be pushing around. There is no way to avoid this unless you take the time to pull the rack apart, remove all the fluid, and even the seals. See the pic below.



That seal on that shaft is one of the enemies. You can also see on the rack above the two different lines entering the rack. When you turn the wheel you are opening valves that allow fluid under pressure to be pumped into one of the two chambers that this particular seal makes. By leaving that seal intact you are needlessly pumping air and fluid around the rack. This effects the response and overall feel of the rack. If that seal is left in place and you cap the lines, you will constantly be fighting pressure and vaccuum when turning the wheel. You cannot escape physics.

Now, mind you the "feel" is all subjective and alot of people will say looping the lines feels fine but I think the only real way to de-power a power steering rack is to remove everything that makes it power to begin with. Novel idea I know but alot of people don't have the time or the patience or the inclining or the tools to do such a thing and becuase of those reasons I think alot of n00blet type mis-information gets spread around.... So lets get started.

Start with a Powersteering rack. They are identified by the lines... that I already took off damnit. This one happens to be a 15:1 from a parts car that was hit in the passenger front. Subsequently the inner tie rods where both spent.



I may be old but I'm pretty hard-core and luckily I have a friend with a true Manual if I hate this one. Actually I do primarily auto-xing and want to get into some road racing so the tighter the better.