7 Reasons Why NOT to buy a centerforce clutch

[730RWHP12A]

I'm one of the few who has had no problems with the Centerforce Dual-Friction in a 1987 Turbo II.
The engine has never made over 300bhp.
I would never recommend the clutch to anyone making close to 300hp at the wheels.

The clutch looks like you need to be very careful on break-in.
I happened to break my clutch during a fresh rebuild, so I took it easy over 2,000 miles.

After the careful break-in, I did not hold back, but max power was only 253hp at the wheels on a DynoJet.
The car and clutch survived a brutal 30 minute session at the drag strip which involved 17 runs and trying to dial-in my launch.
(The dial-in involved drag launches from 3,000RPM up to 6,500RPM with varying amounts of gas pedal and clutch slippage.)
Even through launches that wheel hopped or "smoked" (i.e. burnt clutch smell), it never failed.

I've pulled the trans 3 times so far, and inspected the clutch (disc) every time.
So far, nothing obviously wrong with it.
Wear was even, but due to all the drag launches, wear is obviously greatly increased.
At 20,000 miles, the clutch was already 3/4 worn.

The car recently put down a leisurely 240hp on a Dynapack dyno, which when adjust for DynoJet #'s is actually more than the earlier 253 level.
240hp Dynapack + 10% conservative adjustment puts it around 265hp DynoJet.
The car has about 30,000 miles on it now, and I expect to replace the clutch soon.

Problem with ACT...
Unless you have GOOD hydraulics, the heavier ACT pressure plate tends to blow your clutch hydraulics.
Even if you have good hydraulics, the heavy pressure plate just wears the stock hydraulics prematurely.
The ACT (pressure plate) also tends to kill pivot balls on FC turbo transmissions.
I do have an ACT...just in case.
...but I'd rather go twin.
I've driven OS Giken and Carbonetics, and they are bad ass.
Superior clamping force...
Less wear&tear on hydaulics...
Easier on the leg...
And it's probably the last clutch you'll ever buy unless you go 20B...


-Ted

[RETed]

I'm one of the few who has had no problems with the Centerforce Dual-Friction in a 1987 Turbo II.
The engine has never made over 300bhp.
I would never recommend the clutch to anyone making close to 300hp at the wheels.

The clutch looks like you need to be very careful on break-in.
I happened to break my clutch during a fresh rebuild, so I took it easy over 2,000 miles.

After the careful break-in, I did not hold back, but max power was only 253hp at the wheels on a DynoJet.
The car and clutch survived a brutal 30 minute session at the drag strip which involved 17 runs and trying to dial-in my launch.
(The dial-in involved drag launches from 3,000RPM up to 6,500RPM with varying amounts of gas pedal and clutch slippage.)
Even through launches that wheel hopped or "smoked" (i.e. burnt clutch smell), it never failed.

I've pulled the trans 3 times so far, and inspected the clutch (disc) every time.
So far, nothing obviously wrong with it.
Wear was even, but due to all the drag launches, wear is obviously greatly increased.
At 20,000 miles, the clutch was already 3/4 worn.

The car recently put down a leisurely 240hp on a Dynapack dyno, which when adjust for DynoJet #'s is actually more than the earlier 253 level.
240hp Dynapack + 10% conservative adjustment puts it around 265hp DynoJet.
The car has about 30,000 miles on it now, and I expect to replace the clutch soon.

Problem with ACT...
Unless you have GOOD hydraulics, the heavier ACT pressure plate tends to blow your clutch hydraulics.
Even if you have good hydraulics, the heavy pressure plate just wears the stock hydraulics prematurely.
The ACT (pressure plate) also tends to kill pivot balls on FC turbo transmissions.
I do have an ACT...just in case.
...but I'd rather go twin.
I've driven OS Giken and Carbonetics, and they are bad ass.
Superior clamping force...
Less wear&tear on hydaulics...
Easier on the leg...
And it's probably the last clutch you'll ever buy unless you go 20B...


-Ted