researching the 8.8 swap

[IH8DSM]

I've just started researching the 8.8 swap and to say the least ive got several questions. I've found several different threads with people asking similar questions and most answer just do the grannies swap. Thats great and there stuff looks very well put together but that is a good bit a money when a lot of it can be custom.

So I figure why not start one big thread with as much info about this swap and hopefully pictures of other people builds in one spot might also make it easier to understand.

onto what I've learned so far
-you want a 8.8/9, the 8.8 is the what most people use
- the 8.8 comes in a lot of vehicles early 90 model mustang, explorers and several others (look at links)
- most likely will have to be shortened unless you go widebody/flared
-the mustang rear end has a centered diff the explorer diff is off center

Links
-Grannys kit*
http://grannysspeedshop.com/
-8.8 Facts and Measurements *
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=235261

INFO
- this info is from all over


http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...6-mustang.html

The 8.8 is found in Rangers and Explorers most commonly but the Explorer rear end is more sought after as it is a 31 spline vs 28. Also, 95 and up Explorers have disc brakes that can easily be utilized. Explorer Sport editions (two door) as well as the later Sport Tracs always came with a stock Posi-Trac. These are identified by an "L" after the first number of the ratio on the tag that gets bolted to the diff cover. From example if you had 4.10 gears and a locker, it would read: 4L10. If it was a stock 3.5 without a locker it would be 350. The explorers came stock with 3.5's, 3.73's (optional locker) and 4.10's with a mandatory locker option. Your best bet is a 95 and up Explorer Sport rear end as they have have the 31 spline axle, locker and are perfect to modify for an early mustang.

The early Mustangs measured 57.25" flange to flange. The Explorer rear end is 2.5" wider (59.75"), however, it has an off set pinion 2.48" to the passenger/right side. What I've heard people can do is cut the drivers side tube by 2.48", weld in a new end and correct for the offset, as well as creating a perfect width axle for an early mustang. Now instead of going out and buying a custom width axle shaft, you can use a second passenger side shaft that is already the right size. This is the part I am not sure about, and that is what I would like to check with someone that has done this swap before.

I have heard from a few people that you can reuse the spring perches by just welding a slightly wider plate to adapt it to fit the stock mustang leafs.

Another thing to take into account is that the axle tube larger than an 8inch/9inch at 3.25". Also, in case you don't know, the shafts are held in place by C-clips, so if they do brake, your entire wheel/hub/shaft/brakes can side right out of the tube on you. My brother this this 4x4ing in his ranger and it caused all kinds of problems. If you really plan on beating on the rear end, C-clip eliminators are a good option.

These axles are very strong stock. That is why you see tons of guys starting to catch on and use them. The Chevy guys are onto them as well and I've seen several in Chevs at shows. They will handle upwards of 500hp without any problems (no more power than 90% of guys will have).

xxxx

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ang-swaps.html


If you find both your lucky. Best thing to do is just go to the junkyard and get the rear end and then get the gt40 heads from an explorer that has them. At my junkyard i couldn't find any v8 explorers, but then again i wasn't looking but most were v6s. When picking a rear end look at the tag on the cover and the numbers you want to look for are 3L55 3L73 and 4L10 which are 3.55 3.73 and 4.10 rear ends equipped with not a locker (none had a locker) but fords traction lock which is essentially a posi. altho i can tell you that my 2 rear wheels lock up every time i hit the floor, lol.

xxxx

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ml#post1749485
Yep, '95' and up have the disc brakes.
xxx

GEAR RATIO-i find it very important You can look on the label plate on the drivers door for the codes, here is what they indicate) http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/e...-swap-1001827/

41
Open 8.8"
3200
3.27

43
Open 8.8"
3200
3.08

44
Open 8.8"
3200
3.73

45
Open 8.8"
3200
3.55

D1
L/S 8.8"
3200
3.27

D2
L/S 8.8"
3200
4.10

D4
L/S 8.8"
3200
3.73

D5
L/S 8.8"
3200
3.73
L - Limited Slip Differential C - Conventional Differential
.....

1.) Spring Perch location and angle (been discussed)
2.) Overall width, my 8.8 from a 2003 explorer is about a 1/2" wider than stock. Not too big of a deal unless you already maxed out your tire/wheel sizes.
3.) The disk brake set-up may require a different master cylinder to accomodate the different volume of brake fluid required to fully actuate the rear brakes. And/Or a proportioning valve to adjust/balance your front to back brakes.
4.) If you have your car lowered, the offset pumpkin will likely cause the diff yoke/driveshaft to hit the passenger side tunnel under the back seat at least at the bumps in the road. This can be fixed with a hammer if you don't mind.
5.) The rear drive shaft yoke may have to be changed, but I'm not sure about this - my drive shaft is still in the shed and I plan on going to an AOD so I'll have to check both of my yokes.
6.) Your rear wheels will need to clear the new disc set-up. 14s won't unless your backspacing is near nil which is highly unlikely.
7) The shock plates and U-bolts will have to be changed to accommodate the difference in axel tube diameter. My 8.8 was 3.25 inches where the stock 4 lugger was 3. Currie carries these.

xxx

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ang-swaps.html