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\r\n __________________
\r\n 1986 GXL (\'87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers)
\r\n1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)\r\n
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\r\n what I have:
\r\n1985 Gs:12a All motor Drag car - 1973 Rx2: Play car
\r\nWhat I had:
\r\n93 Touring: TRADED - 91 Coupe: TRADED - 90 GTU: RHD - 88 10AE: SOLD - 87 Base: SOLD - 86 Base: SOLD - 1985 GSLSE - 85 Gsl: SOLD - 80 Gs: TRADED - 1972 Rx2\r\n
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Old 12-27-2011, 09:48 AM   #21
FC3S.USD
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Clean the sucker up and get it in a vise. I'm not going to drill into my beautiful stainless steel bench to mount a vise. Vises work best, but if you don't have one, clamp it down somehow

I started by removing the outer tie rods and counting the turns on the way out, then labeling them with a sharpie. This was of course before I knew that both inners were toast. I'll save the outers as back-ups and transplant the inner/outter combo from the good rack that I have that will stay power as I don't feel like spending ~$150 on new inner tie rods.

To remove the inner tie rod ends use whatever means available. I didn't have a thin enough wrench. Usually I'm one to go buy a tool and modify it but it was late and almost time for cocktails and we had company coming over. I used a plumbers monkey wrench instead. Hey, at that point I knew they were garbage although they would've been reusable.

HINT: What you may think is an allen set screw or a roll pin isn't. Just turn on the inner tie rods and it will pop out. You WILL damamge ONE thread in doing this but it will be repairable. I guess Mazda's thinking was if you're removing the tie rod it's garbage anyway so why save the thread.

Incidentally. I went to align my car before DGRR, and counting the rotations and measuring everything put my car damn near perfect alignment even after everything, and I mean EVERYTHING including the front subframe was removed at least once.

Now, starting here, remove in the following order





1) Large Lock nut (not shown)
2) Yoke Plug (center)
3) Spring
4) Rack Support

These are the pieces as they come out of the rack. Left to right following the order above

XXX



Moving onto the bottom of the rack remove the Pinion Plug and the locknut. The plug is on the bench and the locknut is still in there under that nasty 20something y.o. grease





Then head over to the top of the rack and start by gently prying loose the dust cap






To expose a lock-ring

XXX



A gentle tap at the bottom where the threads are will reveal this engineering masterpiece.





Left to right we have a pair of seals, a bunch of seals, a bearing and again.... a seal...

I hate seals. They are the enemy to all who seek smooth de-powered powersteering racks. They were my enemy. They all fell before me.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg De-Powering 004.jpg (103.1 KB, 138 views)
File Type: jpg De-Powering 011.jpg (86.3 KB, 138 views)
File Type: jpg De-Powering 012.jpg (82.9 KB, 136 views)
File Type: jpg De-Powering 016.jpg (99.0 KB, 137 views)
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