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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

View Poll Results: Which seals to replace
Replace the one stuck seal and the two corner seals 1 33.33%
All new side and corner seals 0 0%
All new side, corner, and RA seals 2 66.67%
Voters: 3. You may not vote on this poll

 
 
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:18 AM   #1
TitaniumTT
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Default Engine Rebuild - which route to take

So here's the backstory with this motor. It was an SMP motor that was assembled with RE housings, RE sleeves, new corner, side and apex seals but S6 front thrust bearings in an S5 stat gear. The motor ran for 25 minutes before it seized. I bought the motor and tore it down. Replaced the front bearings including the stat gear, e-shaft and the housings. I used a near MINT set of S5 N/A housings that I ported. The motor ran for ~1000 miles before it overheated during an emmisions test (idiots and a different story all together) The engine was never the same.

When I had 50 miles on the engine I did a comp check with a piston style gauge and got 105 in the front, and 110 in the rear. Three perfect even bounces. The day of the overheat but after the fact I got 90 psi in the front and 100 in the rear with one LOW bounce using the same gauge. That's when I started the insurance claim for the new engine.

So a few days ago I was @ KDR to have a comp test done for the insurance company (the shop that overheated it owes me a motor basically) and we got three perfect bounces @ high 112's in the front, two @ low 113's and one at 88 in the rear. It seems that a side seal is jammed. So what to do?

I have an o-ring kit that I won @ the DGRR raffle but need corner, side, and apex seals, maybe.

I could
A) crack the rear iron off and replace the one stuck side seal and the two corner seals associated with it. (~$120 in parts)

B) Dissasemble the entire engine and replace all the corner and side seals (+~$200)

C) Dissasemble the entire engine and replace all the corner, side, and Apex seals with the RA Super Seals and springs (+~$550)

What to do? The motor as she sits has about 4k in mileage on her. I believe the housings are in the same shape that they were in when the engine was first assembled. I could re-use the apex seals I'm sure but I want this engine to sustain alot of abuse. Shooting for 380 RWHP, 15 PSI and 8k rpm...... I'm so torn and want to order parts in the next day or two.

Thoughts, opinions?

-B






__________________
-The Angry Stig-
DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-

Last edited by TitaniumTT; 05-19-2009 at 08:23 AM..
TitaniumTT is offline   Reply With Quote
 

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