Starting a fresh rebuild

vex · \r\n \r\n \r\n 05-12-2009, 01:29 PM\r\n \r\n \r\n

I concur with using not any starting fluids. Seen too many damaged motors in the past. Last resort only and use very little.
Generally if the compression is good enough to blow your finger off the hole and there are equal pulses the motor isn't the issue.
It's then down to fuel or fire,
-Fouled plugs are usually one of the most common things, even if they were brand new NGKS. I use known dead plugs to plug motor after assembly, during install. Take them out to do initial spin to blow out assembly goo and get oil circulating.
Fuel is disabled.
Then enable fuel and install good plugs. If it doesn't fire within 5 secs of cranking, something isn't right. If it was running fine when it came in or fine before it popped then I know I missed something putting it back in. On the few that didn't light right away it was usually electrical or vacuum related, electrical connector not connected, blown fuse, 2 had broken wires under the insulation, or vac line not on or cracked hose.

Back to your issue,
Put a known good stock box back in it, you just want to get it to start and go through some breakin. Better to run rich then, when you think of it. Just want to make sure it idles and doesn't have any leaks.
Disable fuel and clean it out well.
Make sure it is spinning over 200rpm higher the better.
quick check plug fire, plugs in wire out of motor against chassis, Of course - Don't hold them please. If you are getting a good blue white spark, install plugs. Enable fuel and try.
If it doesn't show anything in 5 to 10 secs. Pull the T plugs, check for fuel if dry, why? If wet pull L's, clean.
Disable fuel, clean out motor. Enable fuel, use something to clamp off the fuel supply hose. Small needle nose vise grips with pieces of fuel line on the jaws works really well. Install plugs, spin for any reaction. Sometimes they try to light.
With key on open and close vise grips.
Try again. If it lights then dies then open up the grips just enough to let a little fuel through. Might take a few trys to get it right. But when you do the thing will usually fire and idle.
After it runs 10 20 secs , slowly open the grips.
With that proceedure I can usually get the problematic flooded FC to run in 10/15 min.
If there is a hidden wire issue that is another thing.

\r\n \r\n \r\n 05-06-2009, 09:07 PM\r\n \r\n \r\n	\r\n \r\n #2\r\n \r\n
\r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n *TitaniumTT\r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n Last edited by rx4ur7; 05-08-2009 at 04:37 PM..\r\n \r\n \r\n* \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n
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\r\n \r\n \r\n 05-08-2009, 04:05 PM\r\n \r\n \r\n	\r\n \r\n #17\r\n \r\n
\r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n classicauto\r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n Last edited by rx4ur7; 05-12-2009 at 01:22 PM..\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n
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