ST Swaybar Install

[Whizbang]

I have completed this process so here is some extra information that you should be aware of to save you time and frustration.

The kit gives you two bars, the front at 1-1/4" (7/8" stock) and the rear bar (adjustable)

The front bar is the most difficult of the two. The oem bar comes out easy enough. Remove the links from both ends, then remove the tension rods. From here you need to pull down the tension rod mounting brackets to slide the bar out. You can remove the original bar with the mounts on the car, but dont bother, read below.

Putting the new bar back on is effectively impossible with the tension rod mounts on the car. Pete and I tried every way we could. The new bushings will not cooperate with the old metal clamps. The bushings are much firmer and i believe dimensionally larger than the originals. The only way we found to get the the clamps to hold the bushings was to do it off the car.

Best / fastest way is to loosen the 1" nut on the tension rod. Then loosen the two 14mm bolts holding the end of the tension rod to the lower control arm. Once both are loosened, remove them. Do this for both sides. Once the tension rods are removed. Now, remove the tension rod mounts. They are held on with four, i believe 17mm bolts / nuts. They will be rusted. I advise heavy PB blaster and air tools if possible. Heat may help. Else, your taking 1/2" drive breaker bars.

Once removed, snake the bar into the mounts on both ends. Grease bushings and place them onto the bar. Now the metal clamps have to be partially pulled open, then forced around the bushing to get the bolt in. Once in, tighten the bolt to draw the metal clamp around it. This sounds easier than it really is. Expect the use of profane words.

Reinstall assembly. Follow remaining instructions for end link assembly.

******

The rear bar is very simple. Just make sure you keep the old bolts that mount the end link mounts and the sway bar bushing mounts.

The center hole for the adjustments is "neutral". The hole farthest out (should be towards the front of the car) will increase over steer. The one closest in will increase under steer.

[Whizbang]

I have completed this process so here is some extra information that you should be aware of to save you time and frustration.

The kit gives you two bars, the front at 1-1/4" (7/8" stock) and the rear bar (adjustable)

The front bar is the most difficult of the two. The oem bar comes out easy enough. Remove the links from both ends, then remove the tension rods. From here you need to pull down the tension rod mounting brackets to slide the bar out. You can remove the original bar with the mounts on the car, but dont bother, read below.

Putting the new bar back on is effectively impossible with the tension rod mounts on the car. Pete and I tried every way we could. The new bushings will not cooperate with the old metal clamps. The bushings are much firmer and i believe dimensionally larger than the originals. The only way we found to get the the clamps to hold the bushings was to do it off the car.

Best / fastest way is to loosen the 1" nut on the tension rod. Then loosen the two 14mm bolts holding the end of the tension rod to the lower control arm. Once both are loosened, remove them. Do this for both sides. Once the tension rods are removed. Now, remove the tension rod mounts. They are held on with four, i believe 17mm bolts / nuts. They will be rusted. I advise heavy PB blaster and air tools if possible. Heat may help. Else, your taking 1/2" drive breaker bars.

Once removed, snake the bar into the mounts on both ends. Grease bushings and place them onto the bar. Now the metal clamps have to be partially pulled open, then forced around the bushing to get the bolt in. Once in, tighten the bolt to draw the metal clamp around it. This sounds easier than it really is. Expect the use of profane words.

Reinstall assembly. Follow remaining instructions for end link assembly.

******

The rear bar is very simple. Just make sure you keep the old bolts that mount the end link mounts and the sway bar bushing mounts.

The center hole for the adjustments is "neutral". The hole farthest out (should be towards the front of the car) will increase over steer. The one closest in will increase under steer.