Fuel Issue! Need it resolved before DGRR! Help!

[ZGN]

I have a '90 vert with a full T2 swap. I have a Rtek 2.0, 550pri, 750sec and a FD fuel pump. The pump was brand new last year from Denso with a brand new Denso strainer (FC OE cube type). The tank is perfectly clean on the inside, no sludge at all. It is so clean it looks like new sheet metal on the bottom. I've put about 5k miles on the car with the pump in the last year.

Last week I drove it to work and it was running great. On the way home, only a mile from work, the car shut off and wouldn't restart. I waited about 30 seconds and the car started, and died. I got out and checked my inline gauge. 0psi. I couldn't crank it and look at the gauge so I left it and came back later. When I got back to the car an hour later, it fired right up and I drove it 10 miles home with no issues! WTF! This saturday I drove it 20 miles with no issues and shut it off. A few hours later I started it again to go back home. Again, one mile later it died. Similar symptoms, but I noticed that the fuel gauge would start dropping right before it died. Sometimes it wouldn't die completely and the car would stay running, and the fuel gauge would follow form by rising back to normal level or dropping. This shouldn't happen correct? Has anyone experienced this before?

The fuel resistor box (especially the heatsink fins) behind the pass headlight gets too hot to touch when the car is running. I assume by the heatsink it is supposed to get hot. but this hot? Can anyone check their running car real fast?

I can get a pump within an hour, but I don't want to spend the $$ if I don't have to. I have until Wed night to get this sorted out! Give me some ideas. I'd rather not direct wire unless I absolutely have too.

[FerociousP]

I have a '90 vert with a full T2 swap. I have a Rtek 2.0, 550pri, 750sec and a FD fuel pump. The pump was brand new last year from Denso with a brand new Denso strainer (FC OE cube type). The tank is perfectly clean on the inside, no sludge at all. It is so clean it looks like new sheet metal on the bottom. I've put about 5k miles on the car with the pump in the last year.

Last week I drove it to work and it was running great. On the way home, only a mile from work, the car shut off and wouldn't restart. I waited about 30 seconds and the car started, and died. I got out and checked my inline gauge. 0psi. I couldn't crank it and look at the gauge so I left it and came back later. When I got back to the car an hour later, it fired right up and I drove it 10 miles home with no issues! WTF! This saturday I drove it 20 miles with no issues and shut it off. A few hours later I started it again to go back home. Again, one mile later it died. Similar symptoms, but I noticed that the fuel gauge would start dropping right before it died. Sometimes it wouldn't die completely and the car would stay running, and the fuel gauge would follow form by rising back to normal level or dropping. This shouldn't happen correct? Has anyone experienced this before?

The fuel resistor box (especially the heatsink fins) behind the pass headlight gets too hot to touch when the car is running. I assume by the heatsink it is supposed to get hot. but this hot? Can anyone check their running car real fast?

I can get a pump within an hour, but I don't want to spend the $$ if I don't have to. I have until Wed night to get this sorted out! Give me some ideas. I'd rather not direct wire unless I absolutely have too.