My mechanical preturbo water injection

Garfinkles Motor Works · 09-02-2009, 10:20 PM

Something like that ,the first one. Looks like you are on your way to a mechanical system .The more pressure the more flow the way to go .

dudemaaan · 09-04-2009, 01:40 AM

I agree, simple yet effective. The boost switch and solenoid have been very reliable, but fully mechanical would be even better. Provided it flows the same, and holds up without getting stuck closed.

Monkman33 · 09-11-2009, 10:06 AM

Since you've already had it set up in a "flow test bed" once, you could do the exact same thing with the check valve in place. then you could see how much flow you are getting after the mod compared to before hand.

***Herblenny*** · 09-11-2009, 10:51 AM

I thought about pre-turbo H2O injection before.. until last night when I met a guy from AUS who said I should be careful.. He said if the system doesn't work properly and larger water droplets form, it could be detrimental to your turbo when its spinning at 100K. That made me question about pre-turbo water injection... and how fine of a mist these jets create..

dudemaaan · 09-11-2009, 08:57 PM

The pressure valve came in today it looks like it will do the job. I plan to get some fittings and flow test it after it stops raining and clears up over here.

You definitely need a well atomized nozzles for the turbo's sake, but there are guys that have been running preturbo for years without issue. I'm going on a year myself, and my turbo shows no signs of problems. There was even a factory turbo charged car i believe in the 80's that ran preturbo with a very basic water nozzle. The errosion they had with the old technology was minimal and on high mileage cars, it was also commented that it didnt seem to effect the turbo opperation. Not that i would want erosion in any case, but like anything it just has to be done correctly.

proz07 · 09-20-2009, 11:58 AM

im assuming your taking into account the mechanical pressure reduction of the spring valve? I.E. set to open at 8psi means it must first over come at least 8psi to open if your feeding 20psi to it post valve you will only have 12psi... just curious i really want to do the mechanical pre-turbo injection but one thing at a time.

z

dudemaaan · 09-20-2009, 04:57 PM

Yeah i thought about that. I wasn't sure if the spring pressure would reduce the pressure by the same amount. I haven't mounted the spring valve, when i do i'll probably test the water output. I might have to drill the nozzle out to maintain the same flow, unfortunately the atomization wouldn't be as good. Im on the fense on the advantages and disadvantages of adding the spring valve. I'm thinking a vacuum/boost activated mechanical valve would be even better. If i could find one.

Monkman33 · 09-21-2009, 12:50 PM

Just get one that is set at 3psi. You can always run a 'slightly' larger nozzle to overcome the loss of volume from the 3 psi pressure drop.

dudemaaan · 09-21-2009, 01:27 PM

I'm considering that option too, I used to have my solenoid set at 3 psi, but it went through so much more water compared to being set at 8 psi. I would definitely need a larger tank for that, but I do have the room now that the battery is in the bins. The valve I have now is preset at 5 psi but I can turn it down to 3. Flow difference would be 425cc vs 500cc with a 3 psi decrease. I can always drill the nozzle a little to make up for that.

MrNizzles · 10-03-2009, 12:18 PM

has anyone done this to a set of BNRs or stock twins? probably not a "mainstream" idea, but I really like the twins setup.

dudemaaan · 10-03-2009, 02:49 PM

Someone was going to try it using 2 nozzles for twins, I'm not sure if he completed it yet or not but I know he started on it.

You're first option is to run 2 nozzles. One for each turbo. If you're running sequential you will want one of the nozzles to come on at a preset boost level, and the other nozzle to come on when the second turbo is activated. This could be done by adding an rpm switch. I'm sure there would also be a way to tie into the sequential system somewhere to have it activate the second nozzle.

You're next option is to run an airbox that both turbos draw air from. Have only one nozzle mounted on the box so that it sprays right between where the 2 turbos draw air from. Each turbo will draw in however much water they need based on their required air supply.

dudemaaan · 10-03-2009, 08:57 PM

Heres a diagram I made that helps show the operation of my system.

drewrey2004 · 10-05-2009, 02:12 PM

hey dudeman I just got the nozzle and wanted to know what drill bit you used and did you drill both parts of the nozzle tip?

dudemaaan · 10-05-2009, 02:28 PM

I only drilled the center part of the nozzle for the water. I used about 4 drill bits and gradually went up in size. Did it all by hand cause they are so small i didnt want them to break off in the tip.i bought a set of like 10 bits. The largest size you need is just under 1mm. So if you get a set of 1 mm and under you should be good.

drewrey2004 · 10-07-2009, 03:17 PM

Hey Dudemaaan curious to know what kind of ignition system are you running? Sorry if you had already posted it on here but I just became a member and thought I might just ask. Also what kind of power are you putting down? I'm running a GT45 turbo on my 13bt S4 motor and wanted to see what I can expect from my setup.

09-04-2009, 01:40 AM	#17
dudemaaan Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brenham, TX iTrader: (4) Posts: 335 Rep Power: 17	I agree, simple yet effective. The boost switch and solenoid have been very reliable, but fully mechanical would be even better. Provided it flows the same, and holds up without getting stuck closed. __________________ 500+ HP thanks to: Fast reacting IAT sensor thread! Mechanical Pre-turbo Water Injection Thread Dual Stock fuel pumps Thread T2 differential swap!

09-11-2009, 10:51 AM	#19
*Herblenny* Founder/Administrator/Internet Pitbull :) Join Date: Jan 2008 iTrader: (11) Posts: 644 Rep Power: 10	I thought about pre-turbo H2O injection before.. until last night when I met a guy from AUS who said I should be careful.. He said if the system doesn't work properly and larger water droplets form, it could be detrimental to your turbo when its spinning at 100K. That made me question about pre-turbo water injection... and how fine of a mist these jets create.. __________________ DGRR 2013 - Year of 13B www.DealsGapRotaryRally.com http://www.facebook.com/Herblenny

09-11-2009, 08:57 PM	#20
dudemaaan Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brenham, TX iTrader: (4) Posts: 335 Rep Power: 17	The pressure valve came in today it looks like it will do the job. I plan to get some fittings and flow test it after it stops raining and clears up over here. You definitely need a well atomized nozzles for the turbo's sake, but there are guys that have been running preturbo for years without issue. I'm going on a year myself, and my turbo shows no signs of problems. There was even a factory turbo charged car i believe in the 80's that ran preturbo with a very basic water nozzle. The errosion they had with the old technology was minimal and on high mileage cars, it was also commented that it didnt seem to effect the turbo opperation. Not that i would want erosion in any case, but like anything it just has to be done correctly. __________________ 500+ HP thanks to: Fast reacting IAT sensor thread! Mechanical Pre-turbo Water Injection Thread Dual Stock fuel pumps Thread T2 differential swap!

09-20-2009, 04:57 PM	#22
dudemaaan Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brenham, TX iTrader: (4) Posts: 335 Rep Power: 17	Yeah i thought about that. I wasn't sure if the spring pressure would reduce the pressure by the same amount. I haven't mounted the spring valve, when i do i'll probably test the water output. I might have to drill the nozzle out to maintain the same flow, unfortunately the atomization wouldn't be as good. Im on the fense on the advantages and disadvantages of adding the spring valve. I'm thinking a vacuum/boost activated mechanical valve would be even better. If i could find one. __________________ 500+ HP thanks to: Fast reacting IAT sensor thread! Mechanical Pre-turbo Water Injection Thread Dual Stock fuel pumps Thread T2 differential swap!

09-21-2009, 01:27 PM	#24
dudemaaan Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brenham, TX iTrader: (4) Posts: 335 Rep Power: 17	I'm considering that option too, I used to have my solenoid set at 3 psi, but it went through so much more water compared to being set at 8 psi. I would definitely need a larger tank for that, but I do have the room now that the battery is in the bins. The valve I have now is preset at 5 psi but I can turn it down to 3. Flow difference would be 425cc vs 500cc with a 3 psi decrease. I can always drill the nozzle a little to make up for that. __________________ 500+ HP thanks to: Fast reacting IAT sensor thread! Mechanical Pre-turbo Water Injection Thread Dual Stock fuel pumps Thread T2 differential swap!

09-02-2009, 10:20 PM	#16
Garfinkles Motor Works RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (11) Posts: 535 Rep Power: 17	Something like that ,the first one. Looks like you are on your way to a mechanical system .The more pressure the more flow the way to go .

09-11-2009, 10:06 AM	#18
Monkman33 Still Building my FD Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Pasco, WA iTrader: (1) Posts: 255 Rep Power: 16	Since you've already had it set up in a "flow test bed" once, you could do the exact same thing with the check valve in place. then you could see how much flow you are getting after the mod compared to before hand.

09-20-2009, 11:58 AM	#21
proz07 Needing a new tow rig. Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: AR iTrader: (0) Posts: 245 Rep Power: 17	im assuming your taking into account the mechanical pressure reduction of the spring valve? I.E. set to open at 8psi means it must first over come at least 8psi to open if your feeding 20psi to it post valve you will only have 12psi... just curious i really want to do the mechanical pre-turbo injection but one thing at a time. z

09-21-2009, 12:50 PM	#23
Monkman33 Still Building my FD Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Pasco, WA iTrader: (1) Posts: 255 Rep Power: 16	Just get one that is set at 3psi. You can always run a 'slightly' larger nozzle to overcome the loss of volume from the 3 psi pressure drop.

10-03-2009, 12:18 PM	#25
MrNizzles The Newbie Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 13 Rep Power: 0	has anyone done this to a set of BNRs or stock twins? probably not a "mainstream" idea, but I really like the twins setup.

10-03-2009, 02:49 PM	#26
dudemaaan Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brenham, TX iTrader: (4) Posts: 335 Rep Power: 17	Someone was going to try it using 2 nozzles for twins, I'm not sure if he completed it yet or not but I know he started on it. You're first option is to run 2 nozzles. One for each turbo. If you're running sequential you will want one of the nozzles to come on at a preset boost level, and the other nozzle to come on when the second turbo is activated. This could be done by adding an rpm switch. I'm sure there would also be a way to tie into the sequential system somewhere to have it activate the second nozzle. You're next option is to run an airbox that both turbos draw air from. Have only one nozzle mounted on the box so that it sprays right between where the 2 turbos draw air from. Each turbo will draw in however much water they need based on their required air supply. __________________ 500+ HP thanks to: Fast reacting IAT sensor thread! Mechanical Pre-turbo Water Injection Thread Dual Stock fuel pumps Thread T2 differential swap!

10-03-2009, 08:57 PM	#27
dudemaaan Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brenham, TX iTrader: (4) Posts: 335 Rep Power: 17	Heres a diagram I made that helps show the operation of my system. __________________ 500+ HP thanks to: Fast reacting IAT sensor thread! Mechanical Pre-turbo Water Injection Thread Dual Stock fuel pumps Thread T2 differential swap!

10-05-2009, 02:12 PM	#28
drewrey2004 The Newbie Join Date: Oct 2009 iTrader: (0) Posts: 15 Rep Power: 0	hey dudeman I just got the nozzle and wanted to know what drill bit you used and did you drill both parts of the nozzle tip?

10-05-2009, 02:28 PM	#29
dudemaaan Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brenham, TX iTrader: (4) Posts: 335 Rep Power: 17	I only drilled the center part of the nozzle for the water. I used about 4 drill bits and gradually went up in size. Did it all by hand cause they are so small i didnt want them to break off in the tip.i bought a set of like 10 bits. The largest size you need is just under 1mm. So if you get a set of 1 mm and under you should be good. __________________ 500+ HP thanks to: Fast reacting IAT sensor thread! Mechanical Pre-turbo Water Injection Thread Dual Stock fuel pumps Thread T2 differential swap!

10-07-2009, 03:17 PM	#30
drewrey2004 The Newbie Join Date: Oct 2009 iTrader: (0) Posts: 15 Rep Power: 0	Hey Dudemaaan curious to know what kind of ignition system are you running? Sorry if you had already posted it on here but I just became a member and thought I might just ask. Also what kind of power are you putting down? I'm running a GT45 turbo on my 13bt S4 motor and wanted to see what I can expect from my setup.