Made my own solid differential mounts!

dudemaaan · 09-01-2009, 11:46 PM

I did this a year and a half ago, here's the original information on it. they are still holding strong too!

My stock rubber differential mounts were in BAD shape, everytime there was a throttle change I would hear clunk from the rear.

I pulled the stock ones without too much trouble. The stock rubber compound had a circular break in it all the way around the mount.

Once the diff bracket was out of the car I used a blow torch to heat the area where the stock mounts where pressed in. Then i used a wd 40, large vise, large socket, and small sledge hammer to drive the old mounts out.

I wanted to reuse the stock center bolt support and, outer casing that holds the rubber, for my new mounts. The problem was there was still alot of factory rubber holding it together. So first i drove the remaining rubber out of the outer casing with the hammer, since it was barely holding on this was easy.

Then I used the blow torch on the remaining rubber both on the center support, and on the casing. After a couple minutes the rubber kept burning on its own like a little marshmellow. I just let it burn until it went out. what was left was a crispy charcoal stuff that crumbled right off. Now i had the metal pieces for the new mounts. I cleaned them up with lacquer thinner and a wire brush wheel.

There was a chunk of metal on the center bolt support that i had to drive off with the hammer. This was easy. There was also a strange metal piece in the casing that I removed. I then took a small grinder and shaved down the lip on one side of the casing so that i could drive my neoprene in.

I had some heavy duty neoprene rod that I cut to length and turned down on the lathe, drove it into the stock casing, drilled a hole, and drove the center bolt support in.

Did the same for the other mount, and this is how it turned out (see blurry pics). They are a perfect fit, nice and solid, the clunk is gone, and I didnt notice extra noise from them. Between this and my transmission brace the driveline is nice and solid. Shifter feel is so much better. It was a fair amount of work, but I enjoy doing things like this, and it was basically free aside from the labor.

Garfinkles Motor Works · 09-03-2009, 08:50 AM

I have some nylon saved for the same job plus I plan to do the trailing links and the toe control link .I have made nylon motor mounts with the main bolt isolated from the metal part so the vibration is reduced . Having a lathe is a great thing .

dudemaaan · 09-04-2009, 01:37 AM

Yeah it does come in handy, I figured I would do some of the other parts when they seem like they need it. I wish I could somehow make pillowball joints too. I'm cheap so if I can make it myself and save $ I will. Even if it ends up costing more in time.

Garfinkles Motor Works · 09-04-2009, 04:37 AM

I am the same ,plus some of the things I make to sell cost more in time than I charge for them .I get $ 40 per hour to work on customers cars .The engine torque braces are worth a bunch at that rate plus the metal .

09-01-2009, 11:46 PM	#1
dudemaaan Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brenham, TX iTrader: (4) Posts: 335 Rep Power: 17	Made my own solid differential mounts! I did this a year and a half ago, here's the original information on it. they are still holding strong too! My stock rubber differential mounts were in BAD shape, everytime there was a throttle change I would hear clunk from the rear. I pulled the stock ones without too much trouble. The stock rubber compound had a circular break in it all the way around the mount. Once the diff bracket was out of the car I used a blow torch to heat the area where the stock mounts where pressed in. Then i used a wd 40, large vise, large socket, and small sledge hammer to drive the old mounts out. I wanted to reuse the stock center bolt support and, outer casing that holds the rubber, for my new mounts. The problem was there was still alot of factory rubber holding it together. So first i drove the remaining rubber out of the outer casing with the hammer, since it was barely holding on this was easy. Then I used the blow torch on the remaining rubber both on the center support, and on the casing. After a couple minutes the rubber kept burning on its own like a little marshmellow. I just let it burn until it went out. what was left was a crispy charcoal stuff that crumbled right off. Now i had the metal pieces for the new mounts. I cleaned them up with lacquer thinner and a wire brush wheel. There was a chunk of metal on the center bolt support that i had to drive off with the hammer. This was easy. There was also a strange metal piece in the casing that I removed. I then took a small grinder and shaved down the lip on one side of the casing so that i could drive my neoprene in. I had some heavy duty neoprene rod that I cut to length and turned down on the lathe, drove it into the stock casing, drilled a hole, and drove the center bolt support in. Did the same for the other mount, and this is how it turned out (see blurry pics). They are a perfect fit, nice and solid, the clunk is gone, and I didnt notice extra noise from them. Between this and my transmission brace the driveline is nice and solid. Shifter feel is so much better. It was a fair amount of work, but I enjoy doing things like this, and it was basically free aside from the labor. __________________ 500+ HP thanks to: Fast reacting IAT sensor thread! Mechanical Pre-turbo Water Injection Thread Dual Stock fuel pumps Thread T2 differential swap!

09-04-2009, 01:37 AM	#3
dudemaaan Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brenham, TX iTrader: (4) Posts: 335 Rep Power: 17	Yeah it does come in handy, I figured I would do some of the other parts when they seem like they need it. I wish I could somehow make pillowball joints too. I'm cheap so if I can make it myself and save $ I will. Even if it ends up costing more in time. __________________ 500+ HP thanks to: Fast reacting IAT sensor thread! Mechanical Pre-turbo Water Injection Thread Dual Stock fuel pumps Thread T2 differential swap!

09-03-2009, 08:50 AM	#2
Garfinkles Motor Works RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (11) Posts: 535 Rep Power: 17	I have some nylon saved for the same job plus I plan to do the trailing links and the toe control link .I have made nylon motor mounts with the main bolt isolated from the metal part so the vibration is reduced . Having a lathe is a great thing .

09-04-2009, 04:37 AM	#4
Garfinkles Motor Works RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (11) Posts: 535 Rep Power: 17	I am the same ,plus some of the things I make to sell cost more in time than I charge for them .I get $ 40 per hour to work on customers cars .The engine torque braces are worth a bunch at that rate plus the metal .