Max's vert thread.

djmtsu · 03-20-2009, 07:08 AM

The thanks you's and shout outs come when the project is finished!!

And Low Imp, you're right. Paul (Fero313) just picked up a 91 vert, and its VIN is FC35

Max777 · 03-20-2009, 03:02 PM

yup! Bobby, I was going to do a "thank you" shout out when the car gets painted, and stage 1 of the project is finally done.

however, I do humbly thank Bobby, aka "Nopis1O" for being a friend, helping me with the car, and giving me some parts I really needed to finish the project!

Max777 · 03-29-2009, 01:28 PM

Ok, so I just finished up my door panels. I bought some new foam, some suede cloth, and some thin yarn cloth (almost exact match to factory) to redo the speaker "vents".

My door panels were originally blue leather ones, and were pretty nasty. I took them apart, scrubbed all the vynil/plastic areas clean, and coated them with Duplicolor flat black vynil dye, which turned out amazing. I also put the little carpet areas through the washing machine, and dyed them black as well. This has been one of the most "fun" things I've done so far, and for what I spent I am VERY happy with the results!

Total budget for this:

$10 for 3M general trim adhesive
$5 (x2) for a can of Duplicolor vynil dye.
$12 for suede, foam, and speaker cloth

Having fresh door panels that look like they just came from Mazda: priceless!

I will post pics up in a little bit.

Pictures:

On the car:

Max777 · 03-29-2009, 06:16 PM

Pics are up. /\

Nopis1O · 03-30-2009, 12:35 AM

looks good. might wana die the edges a little more but overall its a good turnout

Max777 · 03-31-2009, 08:50 PM

Remembered about some rust while putting the driver's side door panel back on. In order to properly fix the rust spot, I had to pull off the door and front fender. Since this is a bitch to do, I neglected the repair untill now, and almost forgot about it. Taking the door off by myself was a PITA btw, you WILL hurt yourself, and probably break the door if you try, I just got really lucky cause I dropped it on grass.

This is a pic of it half finished, i took ALL the rust off before I coated the frame with paint, just forgot to take a picture of it, lol.

Primered:

Painted and clearcoated:

vex · 03-31-2009, 09:34 PM

That black on blue would annoy the crap out of me. Good job getting rid of the rust though. What'd you use for primer?

Max777 · 03-31-2009, 11:41 PM

I used Sherwin-Williams rust preventive primer, my friend who works at the comany (Nopis1O) told me that you can pretty much spray this over rust if you wanted to.

As far as the looks, I'm going to do the door jams in black, while the rest of the car will be white. also, this chassis is not that perfect shape either, and the FC is my "learners" car so i really dont mind if it's not "perfect".

Whizbang · 03-31-2009, 11:43 PM

rust is the devil

need RX7 · 04-01-2009, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Low Impedance

rust is the devil

Yes it is

:9 898:

Max777 · 04-08-2009, 05:50 PM

Ok, so I just ordered the Oil Cooler lines from Mazdatrix, used 2day-air shipping, so they should hopefully get here friday.

I also got a Palm VII pda for $25 shipped, and a hotsync cable for it from here: garka.com for half of what it costs elsewhere.

Also bolted down the hood finally! Havent had the hood on the car since I took it off over a year ago,

It took me a sec to get the hood to fit right, and line up the front end halfway decent, but I got it at least somewhat respectable.

At this point, I will bolt on the lines, hook up the PDA and setup the RTEK, after which, with a boatload of luck, this thing should fire again!

If everything is fine and dandy at this stage, I will get the car insured, registred, and take care of the floor, then put the carpet in, and it will be all set for the trip! This is gonna be good!

I tried my best to eliminate any vac leaks possible, as well as do everything else right (got new seconday injector connectors because stock were broke). anyway, we will see how this goes!

Max777 · 07-26-2009, 03:58 AM

UPDATE:

So, I didn't make it. I got the car on the road now, but I've been plauged by mis-adjusted set screws on TWO sets of throttle bodies now. I purchased another one, and my car still ran like shit, so I suspect that my issue has something to do with all the adjustments....

In other news, I got some work done on the interior...

I finally found out that you can get dry ice at the blood bank, (which I didn't know before, and no one else sells it in Champaign) and went to work on the rest of the sound deadening crap in my car. I also cut out the annoying spare tire brace that was useless and taking up valuable space.

I still need to weld the floor, clean up some rust, spray bed liner, and install fresh carpet (power washed and dyed black) so shit aint finished yet, but it will be soon.)

I've also been thinking of foaming the rocker panels, but the foam shit is so expensive...

Oh yeah, and I also got some lowering springs...

Here's some pics:

Here's the car lowered from it's 4x4 stance:

Max777 · 09-01-2009, 02:23 PM

Well, I've been thinking about stuff, and I might end up doing a turbo swap. If I go through with this, I will have a number of good items to sell off, some of which are:

2.0 S5 N/A RTEK with PDA and Sync Cable. $250
Racing Beat Street Header $120
S5 N/A Injectors $100 (Cleaned and flow tested by Witch Hunter, cost me $80)
S5 Rotor housings and irons
S5 N/A Transmission $50
S5 N/A Starter $30
S5 N/A MAP Sensor (2x) $15 each
S5 N/A AFM $20
S5 N/A Stock ECU $50

If you see this, and there is anything you need, please send me a Private Message or post a reply here.

djmtsu · 09-01-2009, 03:11 PM

Make a decision man. You need to make it to DGRR '10. A turbo swap is insanely easy, just get everything before starting. You can save some time and money by keeping the N/A trans for now. (been using mine for almost 5 years)

That way you won't need to sell/buy:
-starter
-transmission
-driveshaft

Max777 · 09-01-2009, 03:17 PM

I thought of that, but the N/A trans wont hold up to drifting abuse... =(

03-20-2009, 07:08 AM	#76
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	The thanks you's and shout outs come when the project is finished!! And Low Imp, you're right. Paul (Fero313) just picked up a 91 vert, and its VIN is FC35 __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

03-20-2009, 03:02 PM	#77
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	yup! Bobby, I was going to do a "thank you" shout out when the car gets painted, and stage 1 of the project is finally done. however, I do humbly thank Bobby, aka "Nopis1O" for being a friend, helping me with the car, and giving me some parts I really needed to finish the project! __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

03-29-2009, 01:28 PM	#78
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	Ok, so I just finished up my door panels. I bought some new foam, some suede cloth, and some thin yarn cloth (almost exact match to factory) to redo the speaker "vents". My door panels were originally blue leather ones, and were pretty nasty. I took them apart, scrubbed all the vynil/plastic areas clean, and coated them with Duplicolor flat black vynil dye, which turned out amazing. I also put the little carpet areas through the washing machine, and dyed them black as well. This has been one of the most "fun" things I've done so far, and for what I spent I am VERY happy with the results! Total budget for this: $10 for 3M general trim adhesive $5 (x2) for a can of Duplicolor vynil dye. $12 for suede, foam, and speaker cloth Having fresh door panels that look like they just came from Mazda: priceless! I will post pics up in a little bit. Pictures: On the car: __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! Last edited by Max777; 03-29-2009 at 06:16 PM..

03-29-2009, 06:16 PM	#79
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	Pics are up. /\ __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

03-30-2009, 12:35 AM	#80
Nopis1O Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Mid State Illinois iTrader: (0) Posts: 159 Rep Power: 17	looks good. might wana die the edges a little more but overall its a good turnout __________________ 1988 Fc Vert. Super Stock 1990 Fc Hard top: Brideported 13b, weber carb, 350z wheels w/nitrogen, or 16in BBS meshies, Msd, Racaro Racing Seats, Custom Gauge cluster, custom Intake, Relocated Battery, 3inch header back borla exhaust system, Alpine stereo system, Wire tucked, S4 shift boot&knob, custom Strut bar, And soon to come a Full black w/ gold pearl paint job, powder coated break calipers, all black interior, bride headliner/door panels.

03-31-2009, 08:50 PM	#81
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	Remembered about some rust while putting the driver's side door panel back on. In order to properly fix the rust spot, I had to pull off the door and front fender. Since this is a bitch to do, I neglected the repair untill now, and almost forgot about it. Taking the door off by myself was a PITA btw, you WILL hurt yourself, and probably break the door if you try, I just got really lucky cause I dropped it on grass. This is a pic of it half finished, i took ALL the rust off before I coated the frame with paint, just forgot to take a picture of it, lol. Primered: Painted and clearcoated: __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

03-31-2009, 09:34 PM	#82
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	That black on blue would annoy the crap out of me. Good job getting rid of the rust though. What'd you use for primer? __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group

03-31-2009, 11:41 PM	#83
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	I used Sherwin-Williams rust preventive primer, my friend who works at the comany (Nopis1O) told me that you can pretty much spray this over rust if you wanted to. As far as the looks, I'm going to do the door jams in black, while the rest of the car will be white. also, this chassis is not that perfect shape either, and the FC is my "learners" car so i really dont mind if it's not "perfect". __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

03-31-2009, 11:43 PM	#84
Whizbang Respecognize! Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Δx = ħ/2Δp iTrader: (5) Posts: 3,190 Rep Power: 20	rust is the devil __________________ For current updates and event coverage check out Follow on Twitter! @WhizbangRally Whizbang Rally's Webpage \| Facebook

04-08-2009, 05:50 PM	#86
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	Ok, so I just ordered the Oil Cooler lines from Mazdatrix, used 2day-air shipping, so they should hopefully get here friday. I also got a Palm VII pda for $25 shipped, and a hotsync cable for it from here: garka.com for half of what it costs elsewhere. Also bolted down the hood finally! Havent had the hood on the car since I took it off over a year ago, It took me a sec to get the hood to fit right, and line up the front end halfway decent, but I got it at least somewhat respectable. At this point, I will bolt on the lines, hook up the PDA and setup the RTEK, after which, with a boatload of luck, this thing should fire again! If everything is fine and dandy at this stage, I will get the car insured, registred, and take care of the floor, then put the carpet in, and it will be all set for the trip! This is gonna be good! I tried my best to eliminate any vac leaks possible, as well as do everything else right (got new seconday injector connectors because stock were broke). anyway, we will see how this goes! __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

07-26-2009, 03:58 AM	#87
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	UPDATE: So, I didn't make it. I got the car on the road now, but I've been plauged by mis-adjusted set screws on TWO sets of throttle bodies now. I purchased another one, and my car still ran like shit, so I suspect that my issue has something to do with all the adjustments.... In other news, I got some work done on the interior... I finally found out that you can get dry ice at the blood bank, (which I didn't know before, and no one else sells it in Champaign) and went to work on the rest of the sound deadening crap in my car. I also cut out the annoying spare tire brace that was useless and taking up valuable space. I still need to weld the floor, clean up some rust, spray bed liner, and install fresh carpet (power washed and dyed black) so shit aint finished yet, but it will be soon.) I've also been thinking of foaming the rocker panels, but the foam shit is so expensive... Oh yeah, and I also got some lowering springs... Here's some pics: Here's the car lowered from it's 4x4 stance: __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

09-01-2009, 02:23 PM	#88
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	Well, I've been thinking about stuff, and I might end up doing a turbo swap. If I go through with this, I will have a number of good items to sell off, some of which are: 2.0 S5 N/A RTEK with PDA and Sync Cable. $250 Racing Beat Street Header $120 S5 N/A Injectors $100 (Cleaned and flow tested by Witch Hunter, cost me $80) S5 Rotor housings and irons S5 N/A Transmission $50 S5 N/A Starter $30 S5 N/A MAP Sensor (2x) $15 each S5 N/A AFM $20 S5 N/A Stock ECU $50 If you see this, and there is anything you need, please send me a Private Message or post a reply here. __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! Last edited by Max777; 09-06-2009 at 10:44 PM..

09-01-2009, 03:11 PM	#89
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	Make a decision man. You need to make it to DGRR '10. A turbo swap is insanely easy, just get everything before starting. You can save some time and money by keeping the N/A trans for now. (been using mine for almost 5 years) That way you won't need to sell/buy: -starter -transmission -driveshaft __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

09-01-2009, 03:17 PM	#90
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	I thought of that, but the N/A trans wont hold up to drifting abuse... =( __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!