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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.


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Old 12-16-2008, 12:42 AM   #16
firzen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My5ABaby View Post
Probably because there's hardly any difference.
Exactly.

We'll see what happens when I tear down the engine next.






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Old 12-16-2008, 01:53 AM   #17
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[QUOTE=WE3RX7;63559]Keep in mind guys - as it always in when premixing anything (cars, bikes, lawnmowers, etc) you add the oil to the tank FIRST and then add the gas... otherwise it won't mix evenly. You use the pressure from the gas pump to slosh the oil around and mix properly.

I add my pre-mix last. My theory is, the fuel return will circulate the mixture.
I use Johnsons-Evinrude from Wal-Mart.
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Old 12-16-2008, 11:03 AM   #18
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Bear in mind that yep, the fuel system will circulate and mix the fuel/oil..........EVENTUALLY. But what about all the oil left in the filler tube? Its a corrogated tube (in sections) with lots of ribs to hold oil. When you're adding .5 liter's to a tank of fuel, and 1/3 of it stays in the filler hose is it ideal?

I add the oil first, always have in anything I premix fuel for. If you've done it the opposite way in a gas can, you'd see why.

Also, I use amsoil with TCW-3 but will use anything I come across with TCW-3 if I'm in need somewhere away from home.
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Old 12-16-2008, 11:54 AM   #19
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^^ Exactly, you got to it before me,lol.

Adding the oil last and relying on the return system isn't the best circulation method for a few reasons. Big one as classicauto mentions is because of the filler neck design. The other is you won't get proper mixing due to the baffle design in the tank. Not to mention, for anybody running only Premix and not using the OMP with it, that time it takes to mix what was in the baffle near the pickup may result in pulling in fuel w/ no oil at all and if your on the track at 5K+ RPM and pulling in fuel that hasnt been fully mixed yet, your causing damage, ableit slowly to your engine.

The best solution really is to premix in the can and then add to your tank, but thats a luxury many of us dont have, so at least put the oil in first and let it slosh around a bit. I even go as far as rocking my car around a bit before driving when filling up from an empty tank, just to make sure it all gets into the baffles appropriately.
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Old 12-16-2008, 01:15 PM   #20
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Good idea, will make sure I toss the premix into the tank before driving up to the 91 pump.
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Old 12-16-2008, 01:19 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My5ABaby View Post
Probably because there's hardly any difference.
If you are trying to knock me, let me tell you this.

"TC-W3® has demonstrated the necessary lubrication performance quality needed for these more demanding cylinder/engine conditions."

It says nothing of cleaning power
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Old 12-16-2008, 03:30 PM   #22
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If you are trying to knock me, let me tell you this.

"TC-W3® has demonstrated the necessary lubrication performance quality needed for these more demanding cylinder/engine conditions."

It says nothing of cleaning power
I wasn't trying to knock you or anyone. Can you provide me your information on the differences between Amsoil, Idemitsu, and the cheap stuff?
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Old 12-16-2008, 05:16 PM   #23
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Also, I think the car felt better when I premixed with Marvel Mystery Oil but I've read there are drawbacks to that mixture as well. Since then, I've been reluctant to premix with it.

I find it amusing that we rotary people will try putting anything in their engine, ranging from gas to random premix oils to ATF...
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Old 12-17-2008, 02:37 AM   #24
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Anyone using the Rotary Aviation OMP adapter? I'm going to buy it eventually. There is only one reason I want to use this set-up, pre-mixing gets annoying after a while. I'm going to use the cold start assist tank as my reservoir.
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Old 12-17-2008, 08:27 AM   #25
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I find it amusing that we rotary people will try putting anything in their engine, ranging from gas to random premix oils to ATF...
lol. So true.
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Old 12-17-2008, 11:19 AM   #26
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Rotaries pretty much like everything
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Old 12-17-2008, 02:11 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My5ABaby View Post
I wasn't trying to knock you or anyone. Can you provide me your information on the differences between Amsoil, Idemitsu, and the cheap stuff?
I tried to find a good write-up on it but I got nothing.

What I can tell you is that it really comes down to the cleaning chemicals in the fancy oils that make the real difference.

I mean sure, I bet they are better lubricants...but obviously not required.

My buddy ran Amsoir premix and after two tanks visibly saw the rotors almost clean as when he put them in as opposed to two tankfuls of cheap stuff earlier where they were coated in carbon.

When I hunted last the only big difference between Idemitsu and Amsoil was their price and cleaning capabilities. Amsoil is the most expensive but cleans the best.
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Old 12-17-2008, 02:16 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farberio View Post
I tried to find a good write-up on it but I got nothing.

What I can tell you is that it really comes down to the cleaning chemicals in the fancy oils that make the real difference.

I mean sure, I bet they are better lubricants...but obviously not required.

My buddy ran Amsoir premix and after two tanks visibly saw the rotors almost clean as when he put them in as opposed to two tankfuls of cheap stuff earlier where they were coated in carbon.

When I hunted last the only big difference between Idemitsu and Amsoil was their price and cleaning capabilities. Amsoil is the most expensive but cleans the best.
So assuming you're right I could do a couple fill ups with the expensive stuff and then go the rest of the year with the cheap stuff. Sound about right?
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Old 12-17-2008, 02:40 PM   #29
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^ Just run the good stuff right before you engine pops so you'll have a clean core to rebuild
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Old 12-17-2008, 02:42 PM   #30
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Quote:
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^ Just run the good stuff right before you engine pops so you'll have a clean core to rebuild
I'm already running used housings and rotors... not much point.
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