Ok, now the car dies when it warms up, and TPS is bad.

[Max777]

Ok, so now my car starts again, idles at around 2,000 rpm, and dies when it warms up.

I adjusted the TPS, but it still died... Then I checked it, and it read the wrong resistance values at idle and at WOT. This is with another TPS and throttle body.

My other TPS is fine at idle, but the reading cut out above 3900ohms of resistance.

Anyone run into this sort of issue before? I am getting another TPS, as that obviously contributes to the problem, but I think that something else may be wrong.

I also re-aligned the timing, which was WAY off from where it needed to be....

EDIT: The engine dying when it gets hot would be a closed loop issue, right?

[Phoenix7]

does it sputter? Just die? does it try to stay alive? Can you take a video with good sound?

[Max777]

I dunno, a video is possible. I tried to search for this, because I have heard about this sort of problem before, but so far, I can not find anything....

The car feels like it just shuts off after it reaches operating temperature on the water temp gauge. When I tried to restart it, it started fine, but would not stay running. When I tried to rev the car, it would still hesitate and try to cut out, but then rev all of a sudden. When I did it this time, it popped really loud... I dont think it's an apex seal but I will check compression again soon.

Car starts fine
Runs when cold, but has the 2000rpm idle. I had a problem with the car surging before it took out the old engine, but it does not surge now, idles alright...
shuts off when hot...

wtf?

[Phoenix7]

I think you're on the right track though.....Can you double check your TPS and post the results?

[Max777]

Update: Thought I'd recheck those readings over on the tps today...

Went out to the garage to start the car, it's flooded, I hold down the gas all the way (it's S5) and it starts right up.

THE PREVIOUS TIME: I tried to rev the engine, and it backfired REALLY loud (but i have an open header exhaust). and continued to idle at 1800rpm until the needle on the temp gauge reached fully warmed up, after which, the car died.

Today, even through it started, it ran rough and sounded like it had a really bad miss to it, (however i do NOT remember it runnning so bad before the backfire so I am scared the engine popped it's guts.)

EDIT: I am considering just getting it towed somewhere. My first choice would be Kevin Landers. but he's like, 8 hours away right now, and Banzai racing is a bit closer.
also it didnt stay running very long either, died after what I think was about 35 seconds to a minute.

I am starting to think that trying to get this thing working is a mute point, and that I have possibly wasted close to $2,500 in parts and other random crap on trying to "Resurrect" this pos. I dont want to give up, but this car has been as much a nightmare as it was a learning experience to me... so at this point, after owning it for 8 months, and only driving it for 2 weeks out of that...I'm getting pissed off because I cant seem to fix/finish it.

[NoDOHC]

Go aftermarket ECU, I found that to be far simpler and make quite a bit more power (about 40 WHp) It also improved my fuel economy and thottle response. If your engine makes good compression and starts ok, your mechanicals are ok and you have a fuel management issue.

[Max777]

maybe if I can find an RTEK for cheap?

I want to do that myself, but there is a slight problem with that, I'm a senior in HS, and work a min wage job, so I dunno how feasable that would be...

I think if all else fails, I will tow the car to Banzai Racing in Northern Indiana to get it sorted out. It's about 4 hour trip, but I think that it's well worth it.

I am going to get the TPS, then see what happens, test some stuff, and if I really cant get it, then I will just tow it to Banzai as said.

Shit, there goes my christmas bonus, all my paychecks for the next two months, and any other money I will stumble upon, haha...

as someone once said, fucking princess...

[NoDOHC]

Hey, you are better off to be learning how to troubleshoot and repair cars while you still live at your parents and can get a ride. When I only had the '86 RX7 I was stranded if it didn't start (I once used 1.5 gallons of oil to get to work when I blew an oil cooler line).

As a general rule, throwing money at the car will not help you sort the issues out as much as carefully reading the factory service manual and following the advice given in it. These forums can be very helpful too.

I think that it would help us troubleshoot then problem if you can try driving it or at least try to see if you can keep it running while giving it gas. The problem may only be at idle.

From what you have described so far, it sounds like a vacuum leak coupled with some poorly adjusted sensors.

[Max777]

Well, as mentioned, when I give it gas it just falls on it's face.... like the engine almost cuts out?

and I could not even attempt to drive it till today because I didnt have a master cylinder bolted up to the car. now that i think about it, i will get some SS brake lines since I dont want to bleed the brakes twice...

Thing about the service manual: I cant seem to use it to it's full potential in the form it is online right now... maybe if it was setup like alldata or something, it would be easier to find stuff.

[rx7 FC TII]

ok go get some starter fluid. see if you can get it started and with the help of a partner spray the starter fluid all over any place that has gaskets or might have a leak. if your idle raises or drops then there is your leak. be careful where you spray cause it can do wonders to paint.

as for going the modification route. i dont suggest it. get a good running car mechanically and electronically before you start doing mods.

im also a senior in HS so i know your pain and frustration. im also daily driving mine right now during the winter and rain because my normal DD is a motorcycle. i had alot of problems with mine and already replaced the motor once. go get a haynes manual and start from there. those are awesome for trouble shooting your cars problems and diagnosing what sensors could be off.

also have you tried pulling codes from the ecu?

[Max777]

hey bro! Yah, I got another engine for my car as well (the old one had a huge coolant leak, low comp, stuck 6pt, and 144,000miles.) I also got the haynes.

One problem about the starter fluid: I painted my intake manifolds. I did howevver replace all the gaskets with new ones from Atkins (Rotary Resurrection hook up) new vaccum hoses, removed emissions, completely removed the 6pt sleeves and actuators( jb welded holes shut)

I think that one possibility is that I may have blown off a vaccum hose or two under the lim when it backfired really bad a couple of times.

I'm gonna dissasemble my intake manifold, ziptie all the lines, check eveything again, and rewrap my harness(did a TERRIBLE job the first time) put it all back together with a new TPS, check some more stuff, and then see what happens. If I still cant get it to idle and rev properly, I will call Banzai Racing to schedule an appointment.

[rx7 FC TII]

ya i understand. i painted my UIM while i had it out and i need to pull it off first chance i get so i can repaint it lol.

it sounds like your very close to getting it solved. im willing to bet that one of those hoses came off.

as for the codes if your TPS is bad then thats the reading it will give you so itll be pointless to pull em till thats fixed.

im right there with you with having emissions removed and everything. i would still tell you to try to do the starter fluid. thats the best way to find a vac leak especially if you have all the block off plates and everything. those have a tendency to leak pretty easy. and also check the JBweld, ive seen it crack and cause leaks and all kinds of problems.

[Max777]

ok, in that case, tps first, then pulling everything second....