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Old 05-13-2016, 10:19 AM   #106
project86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
I disapprove. All rotaries should be turbo. Especially those with a displacement greater than 1.3L
Lol.... Disapprove away. But I feel pretty good about it at this point. I've not read one bad thing about a NA 3 Rotor set up. All I've read says how much fun they are to drive. But .... we'll see... there is plenty of time for me to change my mind.



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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
I've been running the 8 6spd for a while. It hasn't proven itself all that reliable
Thats not a very comforting statement in your pitch for every NA Rotary needing a 8 transmission

As far as the shifting properly goes... are the people who can't do it properly just pulling and pushing WAY too hard during the shift?


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That's what I plan on doing actually... that's what I did for the most part last time... although I rented the booth and shot it myself. Not sure I wanna do that again though.
Did you rent the booth from a local body shop? How long did you rent the booth for? What did they charge you?






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Old 05-13-2016, 10:26 AM   #107
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Originally Posted by project86 View Post
Lol.... Disapprove away. But I feel pretty good about it at this point. I've not read one bad thing about a NA 3 Rotor set up. All I've read says how much fun they are to drive. But .... we'll see... there is plenty of time for me to change my mind.
You can get a small turbo with a big exhaust and properly sized turbine and have the same hp, more torque, and be more fun to drive.... cheaper... in my opinion.

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Thats not a very comforting statement in your pitch for every NA Rotary needing a 8 transmission
My problems have been all shift assembly related. Having to modify the tailshaft and linkages has proven.... difficult. The last iteration lasted 2 years and now it's pissing fluid everywhere. Not sure why... haven't looked yet. I'll let you know though.

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As far as the shifting properly goes... are the people who can't do it properly just pulling and pushing WAY too hard during the shift?
Mostly

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Did you rent the booth from a local body shop? How long did you rent the booth for? What did they charge you?
The owners are friends of the family. Rented it on a saturday, charged me $250 for the 5 hours. Picked the car up on monday morning
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Old 05-13-2016, 10:59 AM   #108
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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
I disapprove. All rotaries should be turbo. Especially those with a displacement greater than 1.3L
Shut up queer. I'm done with turbo rotaries until I win the lotto.
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Old 05-13-2016, 11:15 AM   #109
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wah wah wah spinny bits are expensive and the gremlins shit out apex seals for no reason, WAHHHHHHHHH
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I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

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No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
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Old 05-13-2016, 11:30 AM   #110
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wah wah wah spinny bits are expensive and the gremlins shit out apex seals for no reason, WAHHHHHHHHH
Hey now.

I didn't shit an apex seal. I annihilated a rotor bearing.

It was tragically impressive.
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Old 05-13-2016, 11:33 AM   #111
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Turbo can't really be blamed for that
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DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
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Old 05-13-2016, 11:53 AM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
Absolutely correct. Not to mention the 5.11 gears and Hoosiers that put way more strain on a tranny.
How I'd love to have a 5.11:1 final drive ratio. Looks like the highest option other than complete custom for the FC is Mazdatrix's 4.77:1.

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Even with the 350 hp number in mind? At this point my plan is to do a NA 3 rotor when its time to do the engine swap. Its what i really wanted originally with my old car (or an RE swap but i don't want to deal with turbo now). I guess I shouldn't have been so vague in the beginning with this question. So now its all out there.

Im probably really showing my ignorance now but why would it be a expensive/confusing to just swap a TII transmission in? Seems like that option would be less expensive than buying another trans and then having a shop swap the gears and mod the input shaft?
Oh, I didn't realize you were planning on swapping a 20B. 350 hp in a naturally aspirated 20B is optimistic without sacrificing some drive-ability, but that's another conversation. I still think as long as you're not beating on the car constantly (hard launches, constant high-RPM driving, etc.) the N/A gearbox will be fine. You can always change the fluid more often to be safe.

My comment about the complexity was assuming the stock N/A 13B. To switch to a turbo gearbox you need a turbo clutch and flywheel, starter, and unless you want a custom driveshaft to the stock N/A rear end, the turbo differential as well.
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Old 05-13-2016, 11:54 AM   #113
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For the record i have no qualms with going turbo. I just want to really experience NA for a while. I still see turbo in my future. just not yet.
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Old 05-13-2016, 02:11 PM   #114
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Oh, I didn't realize you were planning on swapping a 20B. 350 hp in a naturally aspirated 20B is optimistic without sacrificing some drive-ability, but that's another conversation. I still think as long as you're not beating on the car constantly (hard launches, constant high-RPM driving, etc.) the N/A gearbox will be fine. You can always change the fluid more often to be safe.
I think the 350 number is attainable from what I've been reading lately. I came across a thread on the other forum that a guy did a 3 rotor na build for his FD. The made 345whp. His comments were that the car was just fine on the street drivability wise minus his clutch choice. So i am hopeful.

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My comment about the complexity was assuming the stock N/A 13B. To switch to a turbo gearbox you need a turbo clutch and flywheel, starter, and unless you want a custom driveshaft to the stock N/A rear end, the turbo differential as well.
That makes perfect sense. Im glad to know that that miata gear swap is still on the table.
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Old 05-13-2016, 02:35 PM   #115
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Sooo, please correct me if i'm wrong because i'm confused. You wanted a FD but you said it was too expensive, that is the reasoning behind you purchasing the FC. Now you want to have a NA 20b in your FC........
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Old 05-13-2016, 02:55 PM   #116
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Smaller chunks of moneies at once.

We did 350 on Gordons 3-rotor, stock port, n/a

Aside from the sound which is orgasmic, there's no bene to a 3 rotor if you're only looking for 350rwhp.

Now 600.... We've done that on pump gas with three rotors.
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DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 05-13-2016, 03:10 PM   #117
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Sooo, please correct me if i'm wrong because i'm confused. You wanted a FD but you said it was too expensive, that is the reasoning behind you purchasing the FC. Now you want to have a NA 20b in your FC........
no need to be confused. a decent Fd would have cost me 10k on the low side. and then i would have had to dump a bunch of money to make it look nice. My FC cost 3.5K and its in good running condition and the body is straight. the money i saved not buying a FD means money i can use for the FC.
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Old 05-13-2016, 03:12 PM   #118
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We did 350 on Gordons 3-rotor, stock port, n/a
Speed1 built his? I thought Defined built it? I mean its either a singe turbo RE or a 3 rotor na. Seems like i would run into less annoying things and hang ups with out the turbo.
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Old 05-13-2016, 03:21 PM   #119
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Speed1 built his? I thought Defined built it?.
I forget who built it, but it blew up good about 200ft before making it to the Dragon......
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Old 05-13-2016, 03:32 PM   #120
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I forget who built it, but it blew up good about 200ft before making it to the Dragon......
Yes it did, that was what, 2 DGRR's ago?
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