...more than just the idle..

jimstaz · 01-24-2013, 01:58 PM

idle jumps up and down up and down.. then you step on the gas pedal and no response at all to the acelerator.. i know the idle and this non gas pedal have to be linked together? anyone have this problem and what caused it?

JL1RX7 · 01-24-2013, 04:12 PM

Plugs and coils first. Fuel pump next. Replace and see what happens.

Sephitrask · 01-24-2013, 09:42 PM

I dont think it would be either of those honestly. With the drive by wire throttle I would say the issue is either in the throttle body or ecu. with your other post about starting issues with a non dead battery that convinces me more. Check the connections for the drive by wire on the throttle body, make sure its connected. After that you may have to go to the stealership...

reddozen · 01-24-2013, 10:33 PM

if it's surging at idle, it's the neutral safety switch on the transmission. It's about $100.

EDIT:
Didn't notice you said that stepping on the gas did nothing... very weird...

WE3RX7 · 01-24-2013, 10:48 PM

The neutral switch issue won't create the non-responsive pedal as the OP described.. it would still drive, accelerate, etc.

What have you recently worked on in the car prior to this symptom?

Here's some things to check, maybe something with jump out at you:

- Vacuum leakage
- Air suction at intake-air system (between MAF sensor and intake ports)
- Air cleaner restriction
- Air cleaner improper installation
- Improper operation of drive-by-wire control system (abnormal signals from APP sensor, TP sensor and load signal to PCM)
- SSV stuck open
- SSV solenoid valve malfunction (stuck open)
- APV stuck open
- APV position sensor malfunction
- Inadequate fuel pressure
- Pressure regulator (integrated in fuel pump unit) malfunction
- Fuel pump body mechanical malfunction
- Fuel line restriction or clogging
- Fuel leakage from fuel injector
- Fuel injector (FP1) (RP1) malfunction (leakage, clogging, improper injector amount)
- Restriction in exhaust system
- Purge solenoid valve malfunction (stuck open)
- Improper fuel injection control operation (abnormal signals from MAF, ECT and IAT sensors to PCM)
- Erratic signal from eccentric shaft position sensor
- Damaged or improper installed eccentric shaft position sensor pulse wheel
- Disconnected electrical connectors
- Improper load signal input
- Engine overheating
- Low engine compression

The last two (engine overheat and compression) are less likely, but its always good to check compression. I would start with anything in the intake system including the TB (did you recently fiddle with the intake box, tubing, MAF or TB), then the fuel system... the fuel pumps are known to be an issue on the early cars so it's worth checking the system on/around the fuel pump (pressure regulator, pump, etc). After that, I'd check the shaft position sensor (did you recently install a pulley, etc)? After that... run through everything else on this list...

jimstaz · 01-29-2013, 02:06 PM

my starter is bad.. first step is to replace it then once i will get to the idle problem. with the clutch i will attempt to bleed the whole system this weekend.. im wondering if there is an air pocket in it that is making it mess up meaning the shop who did my clutch prolly didnt bleed it right.. havent bleed a clutch in a while but i will re learn quick.
with the idle problem i price shoped for tps and other stuff attached to the intake.. autozone or advance doenst have anything on this.. they thing i need to get a who new assembly.. so i was thinking of taking it apart and cleaning the throttle and compenments.. i have an k&n typoon ram air intake.. only mod i have by the way and it was installed a year ago.. i didnt touch or disconnect anything from the car.. so i dont know.. i guess once i get it running i can figure and trouble shoot one thing at a time. wish me luch.

reddozen · 01-29-2013, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimstaz

... i have an k&n typoon ram air intake.. only mod i have by the way and it was installed a year ago..

Not a good intake BTW. Heat soaks a little, and most people loose power with it. It's only good for changing the engine tone. I doubt that this has anything to do with how you're car's running though.

Dannobre · 01-29-2013, 06:50 PM

Likely the MOP wiring or the pump is causing the car to go into limp mode.

When you reset the ECU ( battery disconnect)..does the throttle respond normally before you start the car and then stop 4-5 sec after starting??

jimstaz · 01-30-2013, 12:19 PM

i dont know how the throttle acts.. i will reset the computer and find out..

01-24-2013, 01:58 PM	#1
jimstaz Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: clarksville, tn iTrader: (0) Posts: 87 Rep Power: 14	...more than just the idle.. idle jumps up and down up and down.. then you step on the gas pedal and no response at all to the acelerator.. i know the idle and this non gas pedal have to be linked together? anyone have this problem and what caused it?

01-24-2013, 09:42 PM	#3
Sephitrask BOILED PEANUTS!!! Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Jacksonville, Fl iTrader: (0) Posts: 257 Rep Power: 15	I dont think it would be either of those honestly. With the drive by wire throttle I would say the issue is either in the throttle body or ecu. with your other post about starting issues with a non dead battery that convinces me more. Check the connections for the drive by wire on the throttle body, make sure its connected. After that you may have to go to the stealership... __________________ www.rotarycarclub.com *"The way a Rotary engine makes power is ferocious, much like having a chainsaw under your right foot."*

01-24-2013, 10:33 PM	#4
reddozen Gold Wheels FTW Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 744 Rep Power: 17	if it's surging at idle, it's the neutral safety switch on the transmission. It's about $100. EDIT: Didn't notice you said that stepping on the gas did nothing... very weird... __________________ My Cars: 1974 RX4 Coupe 1991 FC3S RX7 - Sold 2003 ZZW30 MR2 (Rotary swap after RX8) 2004 SE3P RX8 (20B Swap in the works) Last edited by reddozen; 01-24-2013 at 10:46 PM..

01-24-2013, 10:48 PM	#5
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 18	The neutral switch issue won't create the non-responsive pedal as the OP described.. it would still drive, accelerate, etc. What have you recently worked on in the car prior to this symptom? Here's some things to check, maybe something with jump out at you: - Vacuum leakage - Air suction at intake-air system (between MAF sensor and intake ports) - Air cleaner restriction - Air cleaner improper installation - Improper operation of drive-by-wire control system (abnormal signals from APP sensor, TP sensor and load signal to PCM) - SSV stuck open - SSV solenoid valve malfunction (stuck open) - APV stuck open - APV position sensor malfunction - Inadequate fuel pressure - Pressure regulator (integrated in fuel pump unit) malfunction - Fuel pump body mechanical malfunction - Fuel line restriction or clogging - Fuel leakage from fuel injector - Fuel injector (FP1) (RP1) malfunction (leakage, clogging, improper injector amount) - Restriction in exhaust system - Purge solenoid valve malfunction (stuck open) - Improper fuel injection control operation (abnormal signals from MAF, ECT and IAT sensors to PCM) - Erratic signal from eccentric shaft position sensor - Damaged or improper installed eccentric shaft position sensor pulse wheel - Disconnected electrical connectors - Improper load signal input - Engine overheating - Low engine compression The last two (engine overheat and compression) are less likely, but its always good to check compression. I would start with anything in the intake system including the TB (did you recently fiddle with the intake box, tubing, MAF or TB), then the fuel system... the fuel pumps are known to be an issue on the early cars so it's worth checking the system on/around the fuel pump (pressure regulator, pump, etc). After that, I'd check the shaft position sensor (did you recently install a pulley, etc)? After that... run through everything else on this list... Last edited by WE3RX7; 01-24-2013 at 10:59 PM..

01-24-2013, 04:12 PM	#2
JL1RX7 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Front Royal, VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 487 Rep Power: 17	Plugs and coils first. Fuel pump next. Replace and see what happens.

01-29-2013, 02:06 PM	#6
jimstaz Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: clarksville, tn iTrader: (0) Posts: 87 Rep Power: 14	my starter is bad.. first step is to replace it then once i will get to the idle problem. with the clutch i will attempt to bleed the whole system this weekend.. im wondering if there is an air pocket in it that is making it mess up meaning the shop who did my clutch prolly didnt bleed it right.. havent bleed a clutch in a while but i will re learn quick. with the idle problem i price shoped for tps and other stuff attached to the intake.. autozone or advance doenst have anything on this.. they thing i need to get a who new assembly.. so i was thinking of taking it apart and cleaning the throttle and compenments.. i have an k&n typoon ram air intake.. only mod i have by the way and it was installed a year ago.. i didnt touch or disconnect anything from the car.. so i dont know.. i guess once i get it running i can figure and trouble shoot one thing at a time. wish me luch.

01-29-2013, 06:50 PM	#8
Dannobre Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Oct 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 87 Rep Power: 17	Likely the MOP wiring or the pump is causing the car to go into limp mode. When you reset the ECU ( battery disconnect)..does the throttle respond normally before you start the car and then stop 4-5 sec after starting??

01-30-2013, 12:19 PM	#9
jimstaz Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: clarksville, tn iTrader: (0) Posts: 87 Rep Power: 14	i dont know how the throttle acts.. i will reset the computer and find out..